Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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== Hydrodynamics ==
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== Coastal hydrodynamics ==
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Waves]] - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 
* [[Waves]] - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
−
 
+
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
−
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]  
+
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]  
−
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]
+
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]
−
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave]
+
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave]
−
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave])
+
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave]
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone * [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
+
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone  
 +
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents   
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'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
−
* [[Longshore current]] ,  
+
* [[Longshore current]] – definition needs expansion: generation of longshore currents, theory, practical formulas 
−
* [[Rip currents]] definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management     
+
* [[Rip currents]] - definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management     
  
  
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===Diffusion, dispersion===
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==Transport and mixing processes==
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
−
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill])
+
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill]
  
  
  
−
===Flood risk===
+
==Flood risk==
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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== Sediments and sediment transport==
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== Coastal sediments and sediment transport==
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
−
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments  
+
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments  
  
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Sediment]] -  needs update with links to specific topics
 
* [[Sediment]] -  needs update with links to specific topics
−
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
 
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
* [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
* [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
−
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
 
* [[Graded beds]] – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
 
* [[Graded beds]] – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
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* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 
* [[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 +
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
 
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
 +
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
  
  
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==Coastal morphology==
  
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===Classification of coasts===
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===Wave-dominated coasts===
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
+
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
 +
* [[Coastal zone characteristics]] - introduction to different coastal types
 
* [[Classification of coastal profiles]]   
 
* [[Classification of coastal profiles]]   
−
* [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
 
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
−
* [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]]
+
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
−
* [[Wave-dominated river deltas]]  
+
* [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]]
  
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Rocky shore morphology]] – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
 
* [[Rocky shore morphology]] – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
 +
* [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
−
* [[Typology coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
+
* [[Typology of coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
−
* [[Equilibrium coastal profile]]
+
* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
−
* [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
−
* [[Tidal lagoons]]
 
−
* [[Fluvial-dominated coast]]
 
−
* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
−
* [[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
+
* [[Mud coasts]]  (or [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 +
* [[Equilibrium coastal profile]] – empirical models, theoretical background, applicability
 +
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
 +
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
 +
* [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
 +
* [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform, shoreline rotation
 +
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 +
* [[Reef systems]]
  
  
 
'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] 
 
−
* http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]
 
−
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]
 
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]
 +
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]
  
  
  
−
===Estuaries===
+
===Deltas, estuaries and lagoons===
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples  
 
* [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples  
 +
* [[Wave-dominated river deltas]]
 
* [[Estuarine morphological modelling]]  
 
* [[Estuarine morphological modelling]]  
 
* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
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* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
 +
* [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]] - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
* [[Rias]] – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics  
 
* [[Rias]] – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics  
 +
* [[Tidal lagoons]] – evolution, morphodynamics
 +
* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
 
* [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
 
* [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
−
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
 
 
* [[Sedimentation of navigation channels and harbours]] - introduction to sedimentation processes, formation of turbidity maximum and fluid mud layers, relation with channel dredging, field examples, modelling
 
* [[Sedimentation of navigation channels and harbours]] - introduction to sedimentation processes, formation of turbidity maximum and fluid mud layers, relation with channel dredging, field examples, modelling
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] 
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]
 +
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]
−
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]
 
  
  
  
−
===Coastal morphodynamics===
+
===Coastal morphology measuring techniques===
 +
 
 +
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 +
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]
 +
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 +
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
 +
* [[Instruments for bed level detection]]
 +
* [[Space geodetic techniques for coastal zone monitoring]]
 +
* [[Argus applications]]
 +
* [[Argus image types and conventions]]
 +
* [[Argus standard image processing]]
 +
* [[Argus video]]
 +
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]
 +
* [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
 +
 
 +
 
 +
 
 +
===Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation===
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Parametric equilibrium models]]
 
* [[Parametric equilibrium models]]
 
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]]  
 
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]]  
−
* [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]]
 
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
−
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]
 
−
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
−
 
−
 
−
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
−
* [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
 
  
  
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* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
 
* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
 
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
 
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
−
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
 
−
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
 
−
* [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
 
−
* [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation
 
−
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
−
* [[Reef systems]]
 
 
* [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
 
* [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
 
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
−
* [[Argus video]]
 
−
* [[Argus image types and conventions]]
 
−
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]*
 
−
* [[Argus applications]]
 
−
* [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
 
 
* [[Bruun rule]]  
 
* [[Bruun rule]]  
 
* [[Closure depth]]
 
* [[Closure depth]]
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[[Category:Remote Sensing in Coastal and Marine Research]]
 
[[Category:Remote Sensing in Coastal and Marine Research]]
 
[[Category:Climate change and global warming]]
 
[[Category:Climate change and global warming]]
−
[[Category:Theme 5]]
+
[[Category:Theme 5]] 

Revision as of 17:13, 20 December 2016

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:


Coastal hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gap

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Wave transformation needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
  • Statistical description of wave parameters needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Types of ocean wave - progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
  • Wave theory – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
  • Wind wave generation – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
  • Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
  • Wave transformation in the nearshore - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave-current interaction
  • Swash – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
  • Wave runup – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
  • Tsunamis - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
  • Wave impact – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
  • Ship waves - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
  • Wave modelling - operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
  • Infragravity waves - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas


External references


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Tides needs revision
  • Tidal prediction needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Tides in the oceans
  • Tidal asymmetry – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
  • Tidal bores- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Longshore current – definition needs expansion: generation of longshore currents, theory, practical formulas
  • Rip currents - definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Transport and mixing processes

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Sediment - needs update with links to specific topics


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Sediment classification - grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
  • Graded beds – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
  • Sediment budget coastal systems
  • Boundary layer processes and sediment transport - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
  • Current ripples and dunes – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
  • Wave ripples - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
  • Cross-shore sediment transport - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
  • Aeolian transport – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
  • Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling


External references


Coastal morphology

Wave-dominated coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • Mud coasts (or Fluvial-dominated coasts ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
  • Equilibrium coastal profile – empirical models, theoretical background, applicability
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
  • Coastal profile response to storms – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
  • Shoreline planform – pocket beach equilibrium planform, shoreline rotation
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems


External references


Deltas, estuaries and lagoons

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Estuaries and tidal rivers – introduction to different types of estuaries
  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Coastal morphology measuring techniques

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Morphodynamic selforganisation processes – principles of self-organisation and examples
  • Rhythmic shoreline features – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
  • Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules


Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


External references


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal engineering


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references

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