Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
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==Introduction==
 
==Introduction==
  
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
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This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2020) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
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For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 
* pages of Wikipedia
 
* pages of Wikipedia
* pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp
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* pages of the Australian coastal website https://ozcoasts.org.au/
* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
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* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website https://www.stowa.nl/deltafacts
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* pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/
  
 +
See also: [[Definitions of coastal terms]].
  
 
== Coastal hydrodynamics ==
 
== Coastal hydrodynamics ==
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Waves]] - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
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* [[Shallow-water wave theory]]  
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
* [[Infragravity waves]] - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas
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* [[Infragravity waves]]
 
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* [[Tsunami]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
* [[Wave transformation]] needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
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* [[Waves]] – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
* [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
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* [[Wave transformation]] , see [[Shallow-water wave theory]]
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
* [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
 
* [[Wave theory]] – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
 
 
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum  
 
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum  
* [[Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection]] - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
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* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] – extension of [[Shallow-water wave theory]] with more detailed treatment of propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation mechanisms, breaking criteria, roller energy, wave asymmetry and skewness, cnoidal waves, solitary waves, observations, empirical formulas, models
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
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* [[Surf zone dynamics]] – impact of [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] on nearshore morphology
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
* [[Swash]] – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
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* [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack
* [[Wave runup]] – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
 
* [[Tsunamis]] - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
 
* [[Wave impact]] – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
 
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Ocean and shelf tides]]
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
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* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
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* [[Tidal bore dynamics]]
  
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
* [[Tides]] needs revision 
 
* [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
 
 
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact  
 
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Tides in the oceans]]
 
* [[Tidal asymmetry]] – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
 
* [[Tidal bores]]- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport
 
  
  
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* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents
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* [[Use of X-band and HF radar in marine hydrography]] - measurement method of currents, waves and bathymetry
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* [[Measuring current fields in the German Bight by radar techniques]]
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* [[Application of radar hydrography in the German Wadden Sea]]
 
* [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
* [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
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* [[Dam break flow]]
 +
 
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
* [[Longshore current]] – definition needs expansion: generation of longshore currents, theory, practical formulas 
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* [[Rip currents]] – extension of [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] with a more detailed treatment of characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management     
* [[Rip currents]] - definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management     
 
  
  
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity]
 
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill]
 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill]
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* [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]  
 
* [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]  
 
* [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
 
* [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
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* [[Shoreline management]]
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
*   [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
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* [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
 
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article   
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article   
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
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* [[Coastal and marine sediments]]
 
* [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics  
 
* [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics  
 
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]  
 
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
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* [[Estuarine turbidity maximum]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments  
 
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] - introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments  
 
+
* [[Wave ripples]]
 
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* [[Wave ripple formation]]
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Sediment]] -  needs update with links to specific topics
 
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
* [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
* [[Graded beds]] – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
 
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]  
 
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
* [[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 
 
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
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* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling.
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
 
  
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity]
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
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* [[Classification of sandy coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
* [[Coastal zone characteristics]] - introduction to different coastal types
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* [[Characteristics of sedimentary shores]] - introduction to different coastal types
* [[Classification of coastal profiles]]
+
* [[Active coastal zone]]
 +
* [[Closure depth]]
 +
* [[Shoreface profile]]
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* [[Swash zone dynamics]]  
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
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* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
* [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]]
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
* [[Typology of coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
 
* [[Typology of coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
 +
* [[Embayed beaches]] - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes. 
 
* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Mud coasts]]  (or [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Mud coasts]]  (or [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
* [[Equilibrium coastal profile]] – empirical models, theoretical background, applicability
 
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices  
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices  
 
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling  
 
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling  
* [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
 
* [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform, shoreline rotation
 
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Reef systems]]
 
* [[Reef systems]]
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
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* [https://ozcoasts.org.au/conceptual-diagrams/science-models/beaches/ OzCoast Beaches]
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
===Deltas, estuaries and lagoons===
 
===Deltas, estuaries and lagoons===
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* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
* [[Siltation in harbors and fairways]]
 
* [[Siltation in harbors and fairways]]
* [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
 
 
* [[Salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
* [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
+
* [[Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes]]
 
+
* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 +
* [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics 
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
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'''External references'''
 
'''External references'''
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]
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* [https://ozcoasts.org.au/conceptual-diagrams/science-models/geomorphic/ OzCoast Deltas]
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] 
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]  
+
* [[Use of X-band and HF radar in marine hydrography]]
 +
* [[Bathymetry from wave propagation analysis]]  
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
 
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
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* [[Argus video]]
 
* [[Argus video]]
 
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]
 
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]
* [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
+
* [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]]
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Stability models]]
 
* [[Stability models]]
 +
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]  
 
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]  
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]  
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]  
* [[Parametric equilibrium models]]
+
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]  
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]]  
 
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
  
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
* [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
 
* [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
+
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] – extension of [[Bedforms and roughness]] with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
 
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
* [[Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone]] – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes  
+
* [[Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone]] – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes
 
 
  
 
===Coastal erosion===
 
===Coastal erosion===
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Bruun rule]]
+
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
* [[Closure depth]]
 
* [[Types and background of coastal erosion]]  
 
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]  
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]  
 
* [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]]  
 
* [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]]  
* [[Typical examples of structural erosion]]
+
* [[Port breakwaters and coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Dune erosion]]
 
* [[Dune erosion]]
 
* [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 
* [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 +
* [[Dealing with coastal erosion]]
 +
* [[Shoreline management]]
  
  
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* [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
 
* [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
 
* [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
 
* [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion]
 
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
+
* [[Sea level rise]]
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
* [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]].
+
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]
 +
* [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]
 +
* [[Ocean circulation]]
 +
* [[Thermohaline circulation of the oceans]]
  
  
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== Coastal protection and engineering ==
 
== Coastal protection and engineering ==
  
* [[Hard shoreline protection structures]]
+
===Hard measures===
* [[Protection against coastal erosion]]
+
* [[Hard coastal protection structures]]
* [[Hard structures and structural erosion]]
 
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
 
* [[Groynes]]
 
* [[Groynes]]
 
* [[Groynes as shore protection]]
 
* [[Groynes as shore protection]]
 
* [[Deteriorated groynes]]  
 
* [[Deteriorated groynes]]  
 
* [[Detached breakwaters]]  
 
* [[Detached breakwaters]]  
 +
* [[Applicability of detached breakwaters]]
 
* [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]]  
 
* [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]]  
* [[Application of breakwaters]]  
+
* [[Application of breakwaters]]
* [[Floating breakwaters]]
+
* [[Revetments]]
* [[Perched beaches]]  
 
 
* [[Seawalls and revetments]]  
 
* [[Seawalls and revetments]]  
 
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
* [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]]  
+
* [[Bulkheads]]
* [[Artificial reefs]]  
+
* [[Artificial reefs]]
* [[Natural barriers]]  
+
* [[Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments]]
 +
 
 +
===Soft measures===
 +
* [[Natural shore protecting barriers]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
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* [[Shore nourishment]]  
 
* [[Shore nourishment]]  
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]  
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]  
* [[Beach drainage]]
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Dredging]] needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
* [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
 
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
 
* [[Tidal power]] – introduction to methods for tidal energy exploitation, practical experience
 
* [[Marine wind energy]] introduction to methods and conditions for sustainable and efficient exploitation (technical, financial, environmental)
 
* [[Examples of marine wind farms]] – practical experience
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment]
 
 
 
 
 
 
[[Category:Land and ocean interactions]]
 
[[Category:Coastal processes, interactions and resources]]
 
[[Category:Geomorphological processes and natural coastal features]]
 
[[Category:Geological processes, soil and minerals]]
 
[[Category:Sediment shorelines]]
 
[[Category:Hydrodynamics]]
 
[[Category:Hydrological processes and water]]
 
[[Category:Coastal and marine natural environment]]
 
[[Category:Estuaries and tidal rivers]]
 
[[Category:Salt marshes]]
 
[[Category:Manual sediment transport measurements]]
 
[[Category:Coastal erosion]]
 
[[Category:Coastal erosion management]]
 
[[Category:Shoreline management]]
 
[[Category:Protection of coastal and marine zones]]
 
[[Category:Coastal flooding]]
 
[[Category:Coastal flooding management]]
 
[[Category:Coastal defence]]
 
[[Category:Coastal structures]]
 
[[Category:Techniques and methods in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Policy and decision making in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Practice, projects and case studies in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Coastal and marine information and knowledge management]]
 
[[Category:Evaluation and assessment in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Remote Sensing in Coastal and Marine Research]]
 
[[Category:Climate change and global warming]]
 
[[Category:Theme 5]]
 
 
Better categories
 
 
Coastal hydrodynamics
 
Transport and mixing processes
 
Coastal sediments and sediment transport
 
Wave-dominated coasts
 
Deltas, estuaries and lagoons
 
Coastal morphology measuring techniques
 
Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation
 
Coastal erosion
 
Long-term morphodynamics and climate change
 
Coastal protection and engineering
 
 
OLD
 
 
==Introduction==
 
 
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.
 
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).
 
Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.
 
 
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 
* pages of Wikipedia
 
* pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp
 
* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
 
 
 
== Hydrodynamics ==
 
 
Articles on modelling : [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] , [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]] , [[How to apply models]] , [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]]
 
 
Lacking: introduction to [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]]
 
 
 
===Waves===
 
 
See also articles under “Water waves” in the wikipedia [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]
 
 
Article [[Waves]] introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 
 
Lacking:  [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy.
 
 
Lacking: introduction to wave theory: [[Linear wave theory]], [[Stokes wave theory]]  (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]),  [[Wave asymmetry and skewness]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Non-linear wave theories]] – introduction to cnoidal, solitary, limits of application (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave])
 
 
Lacking:  introduction to [[Wind wave generation]]  (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave])
 
 
Article on wave measurement : [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]
 
 
Article on [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] : expansion needed. Background and practical formulas for shoaling, setdown, wave skewness, wave asymmetry, wave breaking, criteria, setup, roller energy, clapotis, models
 
 
Lacking: [[Refraction and diffraction]] , [[Wave reflection]] , [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Swash]] – swash hydrodynamics and morphodynamics, infiltration, exfiltration, beach berm, wave runup, overtopping
 
 
Lacking: [[Wave runup]], wave overtopping, wave shoaling ([[Tsunamis]] definition needs expansion)
 
 
Lacking: [[Wave impact]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Ship waves]] -  Wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
 
Article [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
 
 
Lacking: [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
 
Lacking: [[Infragravity waves]]  (Article [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded)
 
 
 
 
 
===Tides===
 
 
Article [[Tide]] purely descriptive, needs expansion  (see for example [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides])
 
 
Lacking: [[Tides in the oceans]]
 
 
Article [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
 
 
Article [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Tidal asymmetry]] – tide propagation in shallow water (coastal water, estuaries),  [[Tidal bores]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Storm surge]] -  definition needs expansion
 
 
 
 
===Currents===
 
 
Articles measurement of currents:  [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]]  , [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]], [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]]
 
 
Article [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone. Expand subtopics, relation with sediment transport.
 
 
Definitions [[Longshore current]] , [[Rip currents]] need expansion: processes, practical formulas
 
 
More specific article needed on [[Wind driven currents]] (Ekman theory),
 
 
Lacking:  [[Density-driven currents]]
 
 
Lacking: article on [[Turbulence]]
 
 
Article [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
 
Articles [[Bedforms and roughness]], [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]
 
 
 
 
===Diffusion, dispersion===
 
 
Articles [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]] , [[Estuarine circulation]] , [[Salt wedge estuaries]]
 
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity] and [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]))
 
 
Expand definition of [[Stratification]] – stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
 
 
Article [[Ocean – shelf-sea interaction]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]]
 
 
Article on marine mixing and dispersion processes:  [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]]
 
 
Lacking: [[River plume dynamics]]
 
 
Article on mixing and dispersion in the nearshore: [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]]
 
 
Articles on oil spills: [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] , [[Oil spill monitoring]]. Articles needed on oil spill transport and dispersion and on oil spill intervention (See also [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill])
 
 
 
===Flood risk===
 
 
Article [[Chances and risks]]. Lacking : General article on [[Flood risk]], [[Risk management strategies]]
 
 
Article [[Extreme storms]]
 
 
Lacking:  [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
 
 
Articles  [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]], [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]] , [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
 
 
 
 
== Sediments ==
 
 
[[Sediment]] -  update article with links to specific topics
 
 
Lacking: [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
 
Articles on sediment transport measurement : see [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] with many subtopics
 
 
Article  [[Sediment Deposition and Erosion Processes]]
 
 
Article [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 
 
Articles [[Sand transport]], [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
 
Article on littoral drift  [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
 
 
Lacking: [[Boundary layer dynamics]] – introduction to boundary layer processes (current, waves, current + waves), [[Wave boundary layer and sediment transport]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Graded beds]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Current ripples and dunes]] , [[Wave ripples]] – formation processes
 
 
Lacking : [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] – introduction to underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation, water quality.
 
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity])
 
 
Lacking: [[Sedimentation of harbours and navigation channels]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, dune formation.
 
 
 
==Geomorphology==
 
 
[[Geomorphology]] – expand definition to a general article linking to more specific articles
 
 
[[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
 
 
===Classification of coasts===
 
 
Article [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
 
 
Articles [[Classification of coastal profiles]],  [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
 
 
Article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohensive sediments; lacking : more specific article on [[Equilibrium coastal profile]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Typology coastlines]] –- accretional, erosional, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes,
 
 
[[Rocky shores]] – [[Rocky shore morphology]] – expand further to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
 
 
Lacking: [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels. (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
 
 
Lacking: [[Tidal lagoons]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]))
 
 
Article [[Wave-dominated river deltas]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas])
 
 
Lacking: [[Fluvial-dominated coast]], [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] 
 
 
Lacking: [[Macro-tidal coasts]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches] and [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]))
 
 
Article [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
 
Article [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]].
 
 
Lacking: [[Mud coasts]] – physical processes of mud coasts such as Guinana, [[Typology of mangrove coasts]]
 
 
 
===Estuaries===
 
 
Article [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples (incomplete article [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]])
 
 
Lacking: [[Rias]], [[Fjords]]
 
See also ([http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys])
 
 
Articles [[Estuarine morphological modelling]], [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
 
 
Lacking: [[Estuary response to change]], [[Impact of estuarine channelisation]], [[Tidal flat reclamation]] - long-term morphological evolution, response to sea-level rise and direct human interventions (dredging, reclamation)
 
(See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics])
 
 
Article [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Ebb-tidal deltas]]
 
 
Article [[Mudflat]] - expand existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks])
 
 
Article [[Mangroves]] (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration])
 
 
Articles on [[Salt marshes]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]] , [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
 
 
Lacking: [[ICZM issues in estuaries]] , [[Coastal squeeze]]
 
 
 
 
===Coastal morphodynamics===
 
 
 
Article on morphodynamic feedback processes : [[Stability models]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – rip current embayments and cuspate shorelines, crescentic bars, welded and transverse bars, large-scale capes and erosional embayments, links to specific articles,
 
 
Article [[Beach Cusps]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Coastal barriers]] - coastal barrier formation, [[Breaker bar dynamics]], [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
 
 
Articles on specific topics of morphodynamic modelling and analysis: [[Process-based morphological models]] , [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]] , [[Geomorphological analysis]] , [[Behaviour-based models]] , [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
 
 
Articles on morphological survey methods : [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]] , [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
 
Articles on shoreline profile dynamics:  [[Parametric equilibrium models]], [[Process-based modelling]]
 
 
Articles on shoreline modelling : [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] , [[Process-based modelling]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
 
 
Lacking: [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation
 
 
Lacking: [[Beach-dune interaction]] – dune accretion, aeolian transport
 
 
Lacking: [[Reef systems]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] sandwaves, tidal ridges, shoreface-connected ridges
 
 
 
 
===Coastal erosion===
 
 
Articles on shoreline observation: [[Argus image types and conventions]] [[Argus video monitoring system]] [[Argus applications]] [[Argus video]]
 
 
Article on [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Shoreline prediction]] – prediction of shoreline response to storms
 
 
Article on coastal erosion processes : [[Types and background of coastal erosion]] (See also [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion])
 
 
Articles [[Bruun rule]] , [[Closure depth]]
 
 
Articles [[Human causes of coastal erosion]] , [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]] , [[Typical examples of structural erosion]]
 
 
Article [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
 
Article [[Dune erosion]]
 
 
 
===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change===
 
 
Lacking: [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 
 
Lacking: [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
 
 
[[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
 
 
Articles on climate change impacts : [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]] , [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]]. Lacking is a general article [[Climate change impacts]] with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
 
 
Lacking: [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale
 
 
Lacking: [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
 
 
Lacking: [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
 
 
 
 
== Coastal engineering ==
 
 
General articles on coastal engineering : [[Hard shoreline protection structures]] , [[Protection against coastal erosion]] , [[Hard structures and structural erosion]] , [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
 
Articles on specific hard structures : [[Groynes]], [[Groynes as shore protection]], [[Deteriorated groynes]] , [[Detached breakwaters]] , [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]] , [[Application of breakwaters]] , [[Floating breakwaters]] , [[Perched beaches]] , [[Seawalls and revetments]] , [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 
 
Articles on [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]] , [[Artificial reefs]] , [[Natural barriers]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]], [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
 
Articles on [[Beach nourishment]] , [[Artificial nourishment]]  (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Sand_nourishments?rId=53 Sand nourishment])
 
 
Articles on [[Shore nourishment]] , [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]] Lacking: [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
 
Article  [[Beach drainage]]
 
 
Articles on dune management : [[Sand dune types - Europe]] , [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
 
 
Lacking: [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
 
Expand definition [[Dredging]] with overview article of techniques and impact. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/The_beneficial_re_use_of_dredged_material?rId=52 Reuse of dredged material])
 
 
Case study [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 
 
Lacking: [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
 
Lacking: [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] – including marine aggregates
 
 
Lacking: [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Managed_realignment?rId=51 Managed realignment])
 
 
Lacking: [[Tidal power]]
 
 
Article on marine wind farms : [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]] . Needs general article [[Marine wind energy]] and update of case studies
 
 
Articles on wave energy : [[Wave energy converters]], [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 
 
 
 
OLD
 
 
==Introduction==
 
 
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (December 2016) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.
 
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).
 
Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.
 
 
For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:
 
* pages of Wikipedia
 
* pages of the Australian coastal website http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/index.jsp
 
* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
 
 
 
== Hydrodynamics ==
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Hydrodynamic modelling]] 
 
* [[Modelling coastal hydrodynamics]]
 
* [[How to apply models]]
 
* [[Reduction of uncertainties through Data Model Integration (DMI)]]
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gap'''
 
* [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
 
 
 
===Waves===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Waves]] - introduction to: short waves (types of short waves, wave breaking, wave generation, wave transformation, statistical description of wave parameters, wave climate classification according to wind climate), long waves (surf beat, harbour resonance, seiche, tsunami), infragravity waves, measurement of waves
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Wave transformation]] needs expansion with general introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, shoaling, setdown, wave breaking, roller energy, setup, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas, models
 
* [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
 
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Types of ocean wave]] -  progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby (coriolis+horiz plane), tsunami, ship waves. Diagram of types of wave, showing the relationships between wavelength, wave frequency, forces and energy
 
* [[Wave theory]] – introduction, linear wave theory, Stokes wave theory, solitary waves, Cnoidal waves, wave asymmetry and skewness
 
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum
 
* [[Wave refraction, diffraction and reflection]] - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
 
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas 
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
* [[Swash]] – introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, beach berm, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
 
* [[Wave runup]] – theory, models, wave overtopping, practical formulas
 
* [[Tsunamis]] - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
 
* [[Wave impact]] – lift force on structures, impact, practical formulas
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
* [[Infragravity waves]] - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Water_waves Water waves]
 
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory Airy wave theory]
 
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave Cnoidal wave]
 
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave Wind wave])
 
 
 
 
===Tides===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Tides]] needs revision 
 
* [[Tidal prediction]] needs expansion : harmonic method, tidal constituents, specific examples
 
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Tides in the oceans]]
 
* [[Tidal asymmetry]] – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
 
* [[Tidal bores]]- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theory_of_tides Theory of tides]
 
 
 
 
===Currents===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone * [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents 
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents 
 
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents 
 
* [[Coriolis acceleration]]
 
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Longshore current]] ,
 
* [[Rip currents]] definition needs expansion: introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management   
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
 
* [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
 
* [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
 
 
 
 
===Diffusion, dispersion===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries]]
 
* [[Estuarine circulation]]
 
* [[Salt wedge estuaries]]
 
* [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]]
 
* [[Ocean – shelf-sea interaction]]
 
* [[Suspended particulate matter distribution in the North Sea]]
 
* [[Index of vulnerability of littorals to oil pollution]] 
 
* [[Oil spill monitoring]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Stratification]] – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]] - introduction to concepts and processes, field studies, modelling, ecosystem implications
 
* [[River plume dynamics]] - introduction to major physical processes, observation methods, field examples and practical simulation models
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/salinity.jsp Salinity]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Salt_intrusion?rId=84 Reduction of saline intrusion]
 
* [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_spill Oil spill])
 
 
 
 
===Flood risk===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Chances and risks]]
 
* [[Extreme storms]]
 
* [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]]
 
* [[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]
 
* [[Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast]]
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
*  [[Extreme event analysis]] -  Gumbel, Weibull distributions, exceedance probability, dependence and joint probability, return period
 
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article 
 
 
 
 
== Sediments and sediment transport==
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Manual Sediment Transport Measurements in Rivers, Estuaries and Coastal Seas]] series of articles on sediment transport measurement, with many subtopics
 
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] = introduction to sediment transport in general, onshore and offshore transport and equilibrium coastal profile, transport of non-cohesive sediments
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Sediment]] -  needs update with links to specific topics
 
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Sediment classification]] -  grain size, gravel, sand, boulder, shape, flat, round, type, cohesive, non-cohesive
 
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
* [[Graded beds]] – sorting processes, seabed armouring, erosion, deposition, modelling
 
* [[Sediment budget coastal systems]]
 
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/turbidity.jsp Turbidity]
 
 
 
 
===Classification of coasts===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal form elements (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
 
* [[Classification of coastal profiles]] 
 
* [[Coastal zone characteristics]] = introduction to different coastal types
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
* [[Characteristics of muddy coasts ]]
 
* [[Wave-dominated river deltas]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Rocky shore morphology]] – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Typology coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
 
* [[Equilibrium coastal profile]]
 
* [[Wave-dominated coast]], barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels
 
* [[Tidal lagoons]]
 
* [[Fluvial-dominated coast]]
 
* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/wdb.jsp Wave-dominated coasts]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wde/wde.jsp Wave-dominated estuaries] 
 
* http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/coast_lagoon/cl.jsp Coastal lagoons]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/wdd/wdd.jsp Wave-dominated deltas]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tdb.jsp Tide-dominated beaches]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/beaches/tmb.jsp Tide-modified beaches]
 
 
 
 
===Estuaries===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Morphology of estuaries]] - classification of estuaries, tide-dominated, river-dominated, wave-dominated estuaries, examples
 
* [[Estuarine morphological modelling]]
 
* [[Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries]]
 
* [[Case studies: Long term predictions for estuaries]]
 
* [[Salt marshes]]
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]
 
* [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Rias]] – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
 
* [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
 
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
 
* [[Sedimentation of navigation channels and harbours]] - introduction to sedimentation processes, formation of turbidity maximum and fluid mud layers, relation with channel dredging, field examples, modelling
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 
* [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
 
* [[Tidal flat reclamation]] – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
 
* [[ICZM issues in estuaries]]
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/emb/emb.jsp Embayments and drowned river valleys]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/hydro_alter.jsp Alteration of hydrodynamics]
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/conceptual_mods/geomorphic/tc/tc.jsp Tidal creeks]
 
* [http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/pdf/Mangrove_restoration?rId=50 Mangrove restoration]
 
 
 
 
===Coastal morphodynamics===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Stability models]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]
 
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]
 
* [[Parametric equilibrium models]]
 
* [[Long-term modelling using 1-line models - GENESIS and new extensions]]
 
* [[Data-driven models and statistical approaches]]
 
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
 
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Beach berm]] – expand definition and add section on berm formation
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
 
* [[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
 
* [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
 
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
 
* [[Coastal profile response to storms]] – profile steepening, breaker bar dynamics (migration, formation)
 
* [[Shoreline planform]] – pocket beach equilibrium planform (see [[Parametric equilibrium models]]), shoreline rotation
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Reef systems]]
 
* [[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
 
* [[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
* [[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
 
 
 
 
===Coastal erosion===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Argus video]]
 
* [[Argus image types and conventions]]
 
* [[Argus video monitoring system]]*
 
* [[Argus applications]]
 
* [[Data analysis and Statistical Approaches]]
 
* [[Bruun rule]]
 
* [[Closure depth]]
 
* [[Types and background of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Accretion and erosion for different coastal types]]
 
* [[Typical examples of structural erosion]]
 
* [[Dune erosion]]
 
* [[Coastal Erosion along the Changjiang Deltaic Shoreline]]
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Shoreline prediction]] – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
 
* [[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale
 
 
 
'''External references'''
 
* [http://www.ozcoasts.gov.au/indicators/beach_erosion.jsp Beach erosion]
 
 
 
 
===Long-term morphodynamics and climate change===
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]
 
* [[Potential Impacts of Sea Level Rise on Mangroves]].
 
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Geomorphology]] – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
 
* [[Climate change]] - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic
 
 
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Climate change impacts]] general article with links to more specific articles, and to articles on sea level change
 
* [[Stratigraphy of coastal systems]] – introduction to depositional/erosional seabed structures, relation with depositional and erosional processes, long-term morphodynamic processes, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Long-term coastal evolution]] - introduction to evolution of sedimentary coasts during the Holocene, processes and interactions, modelling, response to future sea-level rise, implications for coastal management
 
* [[Quaternary geology]] - glaciology, case studies, saltmarsh climate change dating
 
* [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 
* [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale
 
* [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
 
* [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
 
 
 
 
== Coastal engineering ==
 
 
* [[Hard shoreline protection structures]]
 
* [[Protection against coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Hard structures and structural erosion]]
 
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
* [[Groynes]]
 
* [[Groynes as shore protection]]
 
* [[Deteriorated groynes]]
 
* [[Detached breakwaters]]
 
* [[Detached shore parallel breakwaters]]
 
* [[Application of breakwaters]]
 
 
* [[Floating breakwaters]]  
 
* [[Floating breakwaters]]  
 
* [[Perched beaches]]  
 
* [[Perched beaches]]  
* [[Seawalls and revetments]]
 
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 
* [[Soft shoreline protection solutions]]
 
* [[Artificial reefs]]
 
* [[Natural barriers]]
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Beach nourishment]]
 
* [[Artificial nourishment]] 
 
* [[Shore nourishment]]
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]
 
 
* [[Beach drainage]]
 
* [[Beach drainage]]
 +
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]  
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]  
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]  
+
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]
 +
* [[Shore protection vegetation]]
 +
 
 +
===Wind and wave energy===
 
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
Line 1,194: Line 393:
 
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 +
* [[Use of mud in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
Line 1,207: Line 407:
  
  
 
[[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
 
 
[[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
 
 
[[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
 
 
[[Transport and mixing processes in shelf seas]] - introduction to concepts and processes, field studies, modelling, ecosystem implications
 
 
[[Swash]] - introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
 
 
[[Tidal flat reclamation]] – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
 
 
[[Infragravity waves]] - introduction to characteristics of infragravity waves, their generation, interaction with nearshore morphology, their impact on beach accretion/erosion, some practical examples and formulas
 
 
[[Coastline instability]] - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management.
 
 
[[Large-scale bedforms in shelf seas]] - introduction to the characteristics of tidal ridges and shoreface-connected ridges, conditions and (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, some examples and idealised models
 
 
[[Shoreline prediction]] – practical methods, applicability, implication for coastal management
 
 
[[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] - introduction to propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation, breaking criteria, radiation stress, sediment transport, observations, empirical formulas
 
 
[[Sand waves]] - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
 
 
[[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
 
[[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
 
[[Rhythmic shoreline features]] – introduction to shoreline features that can be generated by morphodynamic feedback, such as megacusps, crescentic bars, transverse bars, large-scale shoreline features, large-scale instabilities associated to the littoral drift
 
 
[[Coastal typology]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes. Particular subtopic: [[Typology of mangrove shorelines]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
 
[[Tidal bores]] introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport
 
 
[[River plume dynamics]] - introduction to major physical processes, observation methods, field examples and practical simulation models
 
 
[[River tidal deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
 
[[Tidal power]] – introduction to methods for tidal energy exploitation, practical experience
 
 
[[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
 
[[Wave boundary layer and sediment transport]] - introduction to characteristics of the wave boundary layer, importance for sediment transport and nearshore morphodynamics, velocity and acceleration skewness, sediment transport processes, ripple influence, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
 
[[Ripp-cell dynamics]] - introduction to characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management   
 
 
[[Sedimentation of navigation channels and harbours]] - ntroduction to sedimentation processes, formation of turbidity maximum and fluid mud layers, relation with channel dredging, field examples, modelling
 
 
[[Long-term coastal evolution]] - introduction to evolution of sedimentary coasts during the Holocene, processes and interactions, modelling, response to future sea-level rise, implications for coastal management
 
 
[Decadal coastal prediction]] - introduction to methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale, with focus on data-driven methods
 
 
[[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
 
[[Tidal asymmetry] – introduction to tidal topographically induced wave distortion in shallow coastal systems
 
 
[[Wave ripples]] - introduction to characteristics of wave-induced ripples, conditions of occurrence, seabed instability, morphodynamic feedback processes, wavelength selection, pattern formation and evolution, initial state, defects, final state
 
 
[[Wave refraction and diffraction]] - introduction to underlying principles, morphological consequences of convergence and divergence of wave rays (shoreline orientation, accretion, erosion), morphodynamic feedback (relation with bar dynamics) and nearshore modelling
 
 
[[Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness]] - introduction to the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
 
 
[[Mud coasts] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats (mangrove harvesting?) and response to sea-level rise
 
 
[[Tsunamis]] - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, amplification in shallow water, runup, modelling, observations, empirical formulas.
 
 
[[Morphodynamic selforganisation processes]] – principles of self-organisation and examples
 
 
[[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
 
 
[[Turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, causes and consequences for estuarine sedimentation and water quality, conditions for occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
 
 
[[Marine wind energy]] introduction to methods and conditions for sustainable and efficient exploitation (technical, financial, environmental)
 
 
[[Swash]] introduction to swash characteristics, importance for sediment exchange between land and sea, uprush, downrush, in/exfiltration, infragravity swash, sediment transport, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas for different beach types
 
 
[[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, practical formulas for modelling.
 
  
[[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
 
  
[[Coastal squeeze]] - introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice.
+
[[Category:Coastal protection]]
 +
[[Category:Physical coastal and marine processes]]Physical coastal and marine processes]]

Revision as of 16:16, 26 October 2020

Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering



Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2020) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:

See also: Definitions of coastal terms.

Coastal hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gap

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Waves – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
  • Wave transformation , see Shallow-water wave theory
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rip currents – extension of Rhythmic shoreline features with a more detailed treatment of characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Transport and mixing processes

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal morphology

Wave-dominated coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Embayed beaches - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes.
  • Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • Mud coasts (or Fluvial-dominated coasts ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems


External references

Deltas, estuaries and lagoons

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Estuaries and tidal rivers – introduction to different types of estuaries
  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Salt marsh morphodynamics – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Rias – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics
  • Tidal lagoons – evolution, morphodynamics
  • Tide-dominated river deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
  • Ebb-tidal deltas – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
  • Estuarine morphodynamics – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
  • Estuary response to sea-level rise
  • Estuary channelization - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
  • Tidal flat reclamation – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
  • ICZM issues in estuaries
  • Bio-geomorphology of salt marshes – landscape dynamics of salt marshes resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes


External references


Coastal morphology measuring techniques

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness – extension of Bedforms and roughness with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
  • Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes

Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal protection and engineering

Hard measures

Soft measures

Wind and wave energy


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references