Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
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==Introduction==
 
==Introduction==
  
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
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This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2020) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
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* pages of Wikipedia
 
* pages of Wikipedia
 
* pages of the Australian coastal website https://ozcoasts.org.au/
 
* pages of the Australian coastal website https://ozcoasts.org.au/
* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website http://deltaproof.stowa.nl/Publicaties/deltafact.aspx?pId=1739
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* pages in English of the Dutch Deltaproof website https://www.stowa.nl/deltafacts
 
* pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/
 
* pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/
  
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* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - wave measurement technique
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
* [[Infragravity waves]]  
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* [[Infragravity waves]]
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* [[Tsunami]]  
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
* [[Waves]] – more comprehensive introduction to wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.  
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* [[Waves]] – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.  
* [[Wave transformation]] needs expansion, see [[Shallow-water wave theory]]  
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* [[Wave transformation]] , see [[Shallow-water wave theory]]  
* [[Statistical description of wave parameters]] needs expansion on wave spectrum, Rayleigh distribution, intra-wave interaction
 
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
 
* [[Edge waves]] definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves
  
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* [[Surf zone dynamics]] – impact of [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] on nearshore morphology
 
* [[Surf zone dynamics]] – impact of [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] on nearshore morphology
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
* [[Tsunamis]] - introduction to tsunami generation, propagation, shoaling, runup, dissipation, modelling, observations, empirical formulas
 
 
* [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack  
 
* [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack  
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
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* [[Ocean and shelf tides]]
 
* [[Ocean and shelf tides]]
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
 
* [[Tidal motion in shelf seas]]  
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* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
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* [[Tidal bore dynamics]]
  
  
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* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact  
 
* [[Storm surge]] definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Tidal bores]]- introduction to tidal wave propagation in shallow water, bore development and propagation/dissipation, bore types, relation with channel geometry and bed roughness, observations, modelling, practical formulas, implications for sediment transport
 
  
  
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* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
* [[Use of ground based radar in hydrography]] - measurement method of currents  
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* [[Use of X-band and HF radar in marine hydrography]] - measurement method of currents, waves and bathymetry
 
* [[Measuring current fields in the German Bight by radar techniques]]  
 
* [[Measuring current fields in the German Bight by radar techniques]]  
 
* [[Application of radar hydrography in the German Wadden Sea]]
 
* [[Application of radar hydrography in the German Wadden Sea]]
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* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bedforms and roughness]]
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
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* [[Dam break flow]]
  
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
* [[Longshore current]] – definition needs expansion: generation of longshore currents, theory, practical formulas 
 
 
* [[Rip currents]] – extension of [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] with a more detailed treatment of characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management     
 
* [[Rip currents]] – extension of [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] with a more detailed treatment of characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management     
  
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* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]  
 
* [[Sediment deposition and erosion processes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
 
* [[Dynamics of mud transport]]
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* [[Estuarine turbidity maximum]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sand transport]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
 
* [[Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment]]
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* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling
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* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling.
* [[Estuarine sedimentation and turbidity maximum]] - introduction to characteristics of turbidity maxima, underlying processes (tidal asymmetry, estuarine circulation), impact on sedimentation and water quality, conditions of occurrence, relation with dredging and reclamation in estuaries, observations, modelling
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Classification of coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
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* [[Classification of sandy coastlines]] deals with nearly straight coastlines (with overview of coastal characteristics), special coastal planforms (delta coastlines, sand spits, barrier islands, mechanisms and conditions for barrier island development),  barrier formation; effect of development
 
* [[Characteristics of sedimentary shores]] - introduction to different coastal types
 
* [[Characteristics of sedimentary shores]] - introduction to different coastal types
 
* [[Active coastal zone]]
 
* [[Active coastal zone]]
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* [[Salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
* [[Salt marshes in Europe and temporal variability]]
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* [[Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes]]
 
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* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
* [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology)   
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* [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics  
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Fjords]] – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics  
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
 
* [[Coastal squeeze]] – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]  
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* [[Use of X-band and HF radar in marine hydrography]]
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* [[Bathymetry from wave propagation analysis]]  
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
 
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
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* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Beach Cusps]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
* [[Process-based modelling]]
 
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]  
 
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
 
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
* [[Types and background of coastal erosion]]
 
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Natural causes of coastal erosion]]
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]  
 
* [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Sea level rise]]
 
* [[Sea level rise]]
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
 
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
 
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
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* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 
* [[Overtopping resistant dikes]]
 
* [[Bulkheads]]
 
* [[Bulkheads]]
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* [[Artificial reefs]]
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* [[Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments]]
  
 
===Soft measures===
 
===Soft measures===
* [[Artificial reefs]]
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* [[Natural shore protecting barriers]]  
* [[Natural barriers]]  
 
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
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* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
* [[Sand by-pass systems]]
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]  
 
* [[Sand dune types - Europe]]  
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]  
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* [[Dynamics, threats and management of dunes]]
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* [[Shore protection vegetation]]  
  
 
===Wind and wave energy===
 
===Wind and wave energy===
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* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
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* [[Use of mud in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Sand mining in shelf seas]] -  introduction to sand mining strategies (surface/depth of pits, frequency), impact on hydrodynamics, morphological evolution, ecological recovery, good practice guidelines
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
 
* [[Estuary engineering]] -  deepening and channelisation of estuaries, tidal flat reclamation, impacts, coastal squeeze, managed realignment. (See also [
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[[Category:Coastal protection]]
[[Category:Land and ocean interactions]]
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[[Category:Physical coastal and marine processes]]Physical coastal and marine processes]]
[[Category:Coastal processes, interactions and resources]]
 
[[Category:Geomorphological processes and natural coastal features]]
 
[[Category:Geological processes, soil and minerals]]
 
[[Category:Sediment shorelines]]
 
[[Category:Hydrodynamics]]
 
[[Category:Hydrological processes and water]]  
 
[[Category:Coastal and marine natural environment]]
 
[[Category:Estuaries and tidal rivers]]
 
[[Category:Salt marshes]]
 
[[Category:Manual sediment transport measurements]]
 
[[Category:Coastal erosion]]
 
[[Category:Coastal erosion management]]
 
[[Category:Shoreline management]]
 
[[Category:Protection of coastal and marine zones]]
 
[[Category:Coastal flooding]]
 
[[Category:Coastal flooding management]]
 
[[Category:Coastal defence]]
 
[[Category:Coastal structures]]
 
[[Category:Techniques and methods in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Policy and decision making in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Practice, projects and case studies in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Coastal and marine information and knowledge management]]
 
[[Category:Evaluation and assessment in coastal management]]
 
[[Category:Remote Sensing in Coastal and Marine Research]]
 

Revision as of 16:16, 26 October 2020

Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering



Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2020) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:

See also: Definitions of coastal terms.

Coastal hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gap

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Waves – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
  • Wave transformation , see Shallow-water wave theory
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rip currents – extension of Rhythmic shoreline features with a more detailed treatment of characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Transport and mixing processes

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal morphology

Wave-dominated coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Embayed beaches - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes.
  • Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • Mud coasts (or Fluvial-dominated coasts ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Breaker bar dynamics – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems


External references

Deltas, estuaries and lagoons

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Estuaries and tidal rivers – introduction to different types of estuaries
  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Salt marsh morphodynamics – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Rias – definition, impact of geological constraints on hydrodynamics and morphodynamics
  • Tidal lagoons – evolution, morphodynamics
  • Tide-dominated river deltas - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
  • Ebb-tidal deltas – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
  • Estuarine morphodynamics – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
  • Estuary response to sea-level rise
  • Estuary channelization - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
  • Tidal flat reclamation – morphodynamic response, consequences for physical and ecological processes in estuaries and options for restoration
  • ICZM issues in estuaries
  • Bio-geomorphology of salt marshes – landscape dynamics of salt marshes resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes


External references


Coastal morphology measuring techniques

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness – extension of Bedforms and roughness with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
  • Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes

Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal protection and engineering

Hard measures

Soft measures

Wind and wave energy


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references