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Date Name Thumbnail Size Description Versions
21:42, 30 June 2017 ChadwickFig15e.jpg (file) 89 KB Diffraction (ratio of diffracted wave height and incident wave height) of a normally incident directional random sea state for a semi-infinite barrier. 1
21:41, 30 June 2017 ChadwickFig10NEW.jpg (file) 58 KB Some of Goda’s results for the predominant wave direction at a range of relative depths for a typical wind wave state and different predominant wave incident angles at deep water. 1
21:39, 30 June 2017 ChadwickFig9b.jpg (file) 42 KB Comparison of results for the diffraction coefficient between a monochromatic wave and Goda’s result for a directional spectrum of a typical wind wave state. 1
21:37, 30 June 2017 ChadwickFig9a.jpg (file) 41 KB Some of Goda’s results for the diffraction coefficient as a function of relative depth for a typical wind wave state and different predominant wave incident angles at deep water. 1
15:34, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig20NEW.jpg (file) 19 KB Relationships between principal axes and shoreline axes. 1
10:11, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig20.jpg (file) 78 KB Relationships between principal axes and shoreline axes. 1
10:10, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig19.jpg (file) 143 KB Diagram for derivation of wave setdown/setup. 1
10:08, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig18c.jpg (file) 141 KB Example of a plunging breaker. 1
10:08, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig18b.jpg (file) 174 KB Example of a spilling breaker. 1
10:07, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig18a.jpg (file) 525 KB Principal types of breaking waves. 1
10:07, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig17b.jpg (file) 208 KB A real surf zone at Hope Cove, Devon, England. 1
10:06, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig17a.jpg (file) 1.32 MB The surf zone, conceptual. 1
10:05, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig16.jpg (file) 115 KB Approximate regions of validity of analytical wave theories. 1
10:05, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig15d.jpg (file) 232 KB Aerial photograph of wave diffraction at the Happisburgh to Winterton scheme, Norfolk, England, (courtesy of Mike Page). 1
10:04, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig15c.jpg (file) 147 KB Physical model study of (b) in the UK Coastal Research Facility at HR Wallingford. 1
10:04, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig15b.jpg (file) 138 KB Photograph of real wave diffraction at the Elmer breakwater scheme, Sussex, England. 1
10:03, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig15a.jpg (file) 613 KB Idealised wave diffraction around an impermeable breakwater. 1
10:02, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig14.jpg (file) 165 KB Wave impact and reflection during a storm. 1
10:02, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig13.jpg (file) 141 KB Plan view of oblique wave reflection. 1
10:01, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig12b.jpg (file) 214 KB Standing Waves, observed clapotis. 1
09:59, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig12a.jpg (file) 22 KB Standing Waves, idealised. 1
09:58, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig11.jpg (file) 198 KB Deep water wave refraction by a current. 1
09:57, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig10.jpg (file) 49 KB Reproduced from Goda (2000) Figure 3.7. 1
09:56, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig9.jpg (file) 187 KB Reproduced from Goda (2000) Figure 3.6. 1
09:56, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig8.jpg (file) 200 KB Divergence of wave rays over parallel contours. 1
09:55, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig7.jpg (file) 100 KB Variation of the shoaling coefficient with depth. 1
09:55, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig6.jpg (file) 233 KB Variations of wave celerity and angle with depth. 1
09:54, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig5.jpg (file) 141 KB Wave refraction. 1
09:53, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig4.jpg (file) 407 KB Particle displacements for deep and transitional waves. 1
09:52, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig3.jpg (file) 11 KB Definition sketch for a sinusoidal wave. 1
09:52, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig2b.jpg (file) 1.12 MB Wave generation and dispersion. 1
09:51, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig2a.jpg (file) 133 KB Wave transformations at Bigbury bay, Devon, England. Photograph courtesy of Dr S M White. 1
09:50, 6 June 2017 ChadwickFig1.jpg (file) 339 KB Wave generation and dispersion. 1
20:58, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig7abc.jpg (file) 70 KB Left: 7a. Brick-pattern ripples observed during a laboratory experiment. Centre: 7b. Three-dimensional vortex ripples observed during a laboratory experiment (7a and 7b courtesy of John F.A. Sleath).Right: 7c. Tile ripples (adapted from Allen<ref name=... 1
14:32, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig10.jpg (file) 121 KB The yellow sediment grains are coarser that the red sediments and pile up at the crests of the ripples which are generated in a U-tube by an oscillatory flow. The figure shows a top view of the bottom at two different phases of the cycle (adapted from... 1
14:30, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig9.jpg (file) 139 KB Tile ripples. Reproduced from Allen J.R.L. (1984). Sedimentary structures, their character and physical basis. Elsevier, figure 11.12. 1
14:28, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig8.jpg (file) 57 KB Three-dimensional vortex ripples observed during a laboratory experiment (courtesy of John F.A. Sleath). 1
14:27, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig7.jpg (file) 128 KB Brick-pattern ripples observed during a laboratory experiment (courtesy of John F.A. Sleath). 1
14:26, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig6.jpg (file) 20 KB Ripple symmetry index plotted versus the ratio between the mass-transport velocity and the maximum near-bed orbital velocity. 1
14:25, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig5.jpg (file) 55 KB Comparison between predicted (line) and observed (points) ripple steepnesses. 1
14:25, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig4.jpg (file) 76 KB Comparison between predicted (lines) and observed (points) ripple wavelengths. 1
14:24, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig3.jpg (file) 51 KB Comparison between predicted (lines) and observed (points) ripple wavelengths. 1
14:24, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig2.jpg (file) 78 KB Comparison between predicted (lines) and observed (points) ripple wavelengths. 1
14:23, 5 June 2017 BlondeauxFig1.jpg (file) 94 KB Ripple marks in the Mediterranean Sea. Courtesy of José B. Ruiz. 1
10:14, 31 May 2017 BaldockFig3NEW2.jpg (file) 50 KB Typical pattern of bore-driven swash oscillations (vertical component). Data show shoreline elevation versus time at Avoca Beach, NSW. Red and green squares indicate maxima and minima of individual swash events. Data courtesy of Dr Michael Hughes, NSW... 1
22:26, 30 May 2017 BaldockFig3NEW.jpg (file) 42 KB Typical pattern of vertical shoreline oscillations (in metres) as a function of time (seconds). Redrawn from Stockdon, H. F., Holman, R. A., Howd, P. A. and Sallenger JR, A. H. 2006. Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup. Coastal Engine... 1
15:05, 30 May 2017 BaldockFig7NEW.jpg (file) 60 KB Contours of surface elevation with two different resistance coefficients, R=0 (blue lines) and R=0.01 (red dashed lines) in non-dimensional coordinates. From: Deng, X., H. Liu, Z. Jiang and T. E. Baldock, 2016. Swash flow properties with bottom resista... 1
09:22, 30 May 2017 BaldockFig10.jpg (file) 333 KB A LIDAR system mounted above the swash zone, together with ultrasonic distance point sensors. Photo: Dr Chris Blenkinsopp, University of Bath, UK. 1
09:21, 30 May 2017 BaldockFig9.jpg (file) 56 KB Measured normalized suspended sediment concentration indicated by colours mapped onto the normalised x*-t* plane representing the swash excursion and duration. From: Hughes, M. G., T. Aagaard and T. E. Baldock, 2007. Suspended sediment in the swash zon... 1
09:19, 30 May 2017 BaldockFig8.jpg (file) 220 KB A turbulent bore containing entrained suspended sediment just prior to reaching the swash zone. Photo T. Baldock 1
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