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• Shelf sea exchange with the ocean
  ...ge processes satisfying one or more of the criteria (i-iv). These include coastal-trapped waves; instability, meanders and friction-induced Ekman transport a ...Ducklow HW, Jahnke RA, Rothschild BJ, 2005. Interdisciplinary multiscale coastal dynamical processes and interaction. The Sea 13 (Robinson AR, Brink KH, ed
  34 KB (5,118 words) - 12:02, 29 June 2020
• Swash zone dynamics
  ...amics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives. Coastal Engineering 45: 149-167</ref>.]] ...y of sand, gravel, rock or coral barriers. This influences the exchange of sediment between the land and ocean, which ultimately forms the coastline.
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Ocean and shelf tides
  ...to the gravitational forces follows a pattern of rotating ('amphidromic') systems, as a consequence of earth's rotation. The frequencies are determined by th ...n part of the Indian Ocean <ref>Lyard F.H. and Le Provost, C. 1997. Energy budget of the tidal hydrodynamical model FES94.1. Geophys. Res. Lett. 24(6): 687-6
  27 KB (4,146 words) - 23:36, 19 January 2024
• Marine data portals and tools
  ...nographic Data Center, manages one of the largest archives of atmospheric, coastal, geophysical, and oceanic research in the world. NCEI offers users access t ...llected by the European oceanographic fleets and new automatic observation systems. It is a network of major institutes and marine data centres active in data
  25 KB (3,541 words) - 22:36, 5 November 2021
• Classification of sandy coastlines
  ...undamental to the way in which the more dynamic habitats and ecosystems of coastal terrestrial areas and transitional waters develop. ...in type of coastline may present for the population living in the specific coastal area, but also to provide guidelines for possible/feasible shoreline manage
  17 KB (2,622 words) - 20:46, 31 March 2021
• Embayed beaches
  ...s of sediment is limited (otherwise no beach would be present). Hence, the budget of the sand body comprised between the headlands is virtually closed. ..., together with the breaker-induced wave energy dissipation, determine the sediment transport gradients along the beach (see [[Shallow-water wave theory]] and
  13 KB (2,008 words) - 16:12, 3 October 2021

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