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  • ...terrace. J. Geol., 10(1), 1–32.</ref>. For a more detailed explanation, see the article [[Shoreface profile]]. ...rom the [[active coastal zone|active coastal profile]], for example a high berm, a (fore)dune or a sand barrier. This can only be the case if the sea level
    11 KB (1,739 words) - 22:49, 11 December 2022
  • ...e. This is the reason why quartz is the predominant mineral in present day beach and river sands and is also common in most ancient sandstones. The rate at Clastic sediments can be classified according to grainsize, see Table 1. Grainsizes are indicative of the advancement of the weathering pro
    56 KB (8,246 words) - 17:33, 30 December 2023
  • ...so-called [[swash]] bores: the uprush of waves after final collapse on the beach. Wave run-up is an important parameter for assessing the safety of sea dike ...f><ref>Holman, R.A. and Sallenger, A.H. 1985. Setup and swash on a natural beach. J. Geophys. Res. 90: 945–953</ref><ref name=A17>Atkinson, A.L., Power, H
    7 KB (1,082 words) - 13:00, 18 April 2024
  • ...aracterised by the presence of loose sediments on the shoreface and on the beach, will be included in the following rough classification.'' ...the present coastline and the coastline orientation of net zero transport, see the image [[Media:drift_budget_c.jpg|littoral drift budget]].
    17 KB (2,622 words) - 20:46, 31 March 2021
  • ...: (1) flexibility - the potential to accommodate (small) changes in seabed/beach level; (2) potential to dissipate wave energy, thus reducing wave loads on ...the structure is essentially a revetment or dike protecting the backshore berm, dune foot or cliff base. In the second case the structure is a breakwater.
    53 KB (8,270 words) - 18:27, 26 March 2024
  • ...gh and 40 to 400 m wide, often shelly, deposited in the form of wave-built beach ridge on a swampy, deltaic, or alluvial coastal plain of fine sediment.}} A chenier plain is a [[strand plain]] consisting of long, narrow beach ridges (cheniers) and intervening mudflats with marsh or swamp vegetation.
    6 KB (884 words) - 13:20, 13 January 2024
  • ...on= Up and down propagation of bores formed after collapse of waves on the beach. Swash is the decelerating uprush phase and backwash is the accelerating do ...n the beach; the [[Wave run-up|swash uprush]] reaches the top of the beach berm. Photo credit: Dr Hannah Power, University of Newcastle, NSW, Australia.]]
    3 KB (447 words) - 20:17, 1 November 2022
  • ...tructural sand loss/gain on the [[active coastal zone]]. The other type is beach erosion/accretion related to temporal variations of the shoreline. ...influence on large-scale coastal change. Geomorphology 199: 160-170</ref>. See [[Dealing with coastal erosion]], [[Human causes of coastal erosion]] and [
    29 KB (4,526 words) - 12:45, 24 April 2024

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