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• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...an have a natural cause or a human cause. Climate change, which influences sea level, wave climate and sediment supply, is considered a natural cause. The ...auses mostly erosion at the lee side, but large structures may also cause (initial) erosion on the upstream side.
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Nearshore sandbars
  .... 1 shows a typical example of the transformation and breaking of incident waves in the nearshore zone. ...e initial bar will force the breakpoint further down the shoreface and the initial bar will follow until reaching a position where the breaker-induced offshor
  24 KB (3,613 words) - 17:34, 14 November 2023
• Gravel Beaches
  ...been derived from offshore banks left behind by relatively rapid rises of sea level after cold episodes in the earth’s climate. ...f 0.5 m are commonly found over just one tidal cycle for moderate to large waves <ref name ="Van Wellen">[http://www.vliz.be/imis/imis.php?module=ref&refid=
  40 KB (6,109 words) - 17:19, 24 February 2023
• Modelling coastal hydrodynamics
  ...ed. Research is being carried out to improve the representation of tides, waves, currents, and surge in coastal waters. <br> ...itself as coastal currents, tides and tidal currents, internal and surface waves, [[storm surge]]s, tsunamis and others (Horikawa, 1988<ref name=Hor>Horikaw
  99 KB (15,083 words) - 13:37, 7 November 2021
• Scaling Issues in Hydraulic Modelling
  ...e the same losses’ level and not a faster decay as append sometimes with waves in a model.<p> ...ll water depths, small [[wave height|wave heights]] and periods (capillary waves) or large fluid paths. Since many dimensions are smaller in the model this
  54 KB (8,152 words) - 11:15, 7 September 2020
• Morphology of estuaries
  ...rmined by self-organizing dynamics. The hydrodynamic features of tides and waves that shape estuarine morphology through local erosion, sedimentation and tr ...nd currents, mutually interact: while morphology is shaped by currents and waves, it modifies current and wave patterns at the same time. This mutual intera
  87 KB (13,505 words) - 12:18, 20 January 2024
• Shallow-water wave theory
  ...he first section provides a descriptive overview of the generation of wind waves, their characteristics, the processes which control their movement and tran ...period are produced and travel in various directions. Once formed, ocean waves can travel for vast distances, spreading in area and reducing in height, bu
  86 KB (13,927 words) - 12:36, 3 May 2023
• Shoreface profile
  ...he shoreface is the zone seaward of the shoreline where offshore generated waves interact with the upward sloping seabed. }} ...led shoaling zone; wave shoaling is the process of wave amplification when waves travel from deep to shallow water before breaking (see [[Shallow-water wave
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024