Search results

Jump to: navigation, search
  • ...e j</math>, we have <math>E[X(i)X(j)] \approx 0 \;</math> for <math>i \ne j</math> and <math>E[X(i)^2] \approx \overline{X^2} \;</math> is the average ...>E[(\sum_{i=0}^N X (i))^2] \; = \; E[\sum_{i=0}^N X (i) \; \sum_{j=0}^N X (j)] \; \approx \; \sum_{i=0}^N E[X (i)^2] \; \approx \; \tau \; \overline{X^2
    48 KB (7,481 words) - 15:07, 2 July 2023
  • |AuthorFullName=Job Dronkers |AuthorName=Dronkers J}}
    5 KB (891 words) - 18:02, 17 December 2020
  • ...d Teubner, M.D. (1980) A note on frictional effects in Taylor’s problem. J Mar Res 38(2):183–191</ref>. ...strophys. Fluid Dynamics 22: 29-49</ref><ref>Maas, L.R.M. and Van Haren, J.J.M. (1987) Observations on the vertical structure of tidal and inertial curr
    29 KB (4,811 words) - 11:24, 16 September 2021
  • ...irst given by Schijf and Schönfeld in 1953 <ref>Schijf, J.B., Schönfeld, J.C. 1953. Theoretical considerations on the motion of salt and fresh water. ...D.H. 1989. Tide-induced variation of the dynamics of a salt wedge estuary. J. Phys. Oceanography 19: 1060-1072</ref>. In some cases, especially in the M
    23 KB (3,588 words) - 17:48, 7 December 2022
  • ...nt energy balance, velocity structure, and along-channel momentum balance. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 29: 3056–72</ref>. The different processes that drive es ...ge. J.H. and Bowen, M.M. (2000) The dynamics of a partially mixed estuary. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 30: 2035–48</ref><ref>MacCready, P. (2004) Toward a unif
    39 KB (5,906 words) - 23:22, 24 May 2023
  • |AuthorFullName=Job Dronkers |AuthorName=Dronkers J}}
    7 KB (1,059 words) - 17:29, 2 July 2023
  • ...Estuarine facies models: conceptual basis and stratigraphic implications. J. Sediment. Petrol. 62: 1130–1146</ref>) as: ...racteristics and the sediment import in the system <ref name=D16>Dronkers, J. (2016) Dynamics of Coastal Systems 2nd edition. World Scientific Publ. Co.
    87 KB (13,505 words) - 12:18, 20 January 2024
  • ...riction Factors in Open Channels (1963) Friction factors in open channels. J. Hydraulics Div. ASCE 89: 97–143</ref> ...and bottom roughness estimates to density stratification, Eckernforde Bay, J. Geophys. Res., 102, 5721–5732</ref>. Modelling of the 3D structure of th
    11 KB (1,741 words) - 18:18, 4 February 2023
  • ...n, 1975<ref> Guza, R.T. and Inman, D.L., 1975, Edge waves and beach cusps, J. Geophys. Res., 80(21), 2997-3012. </ref>). ...r, B.T., and Elgar, S., 2004, The role of tides in beach cusp development, J. Geophys. Res., 109(C4), C04011, doi: 10.1029/2003JC002154.</ref>).
    11 KB (1,666 words) - 16:48, 7 October 2022
  • ...o flow in alluvial channels. U.S. Geological Survey Professional Paper 422-J. Washington, DC: U.S. Government Printing Office</ref>).]] ...primary linear instability and of dunes by non-linear pattern coarsening. J. Fluid Mech. 649: 287-328</ref>.
    26 KB (4,021 words) - 12:32, 13 March 2023
  • ...nological arguments (Mehta and Letter <ref name=ML15> Mehta, A.J., Letter, J.V., Jr., (2015). Cohesive/cohesionless sediment transition diameter from se with <math>\eta</math> the dynamic viscosity of water (Julien<ref name=J> Julien, P.Y. (2010). Erosion and Sedimentation, 2nd ed., Cambridge.</ref>)
    63 KB (9,960 words) - 23:03, 28 April 2024
  • ...A (1998). A dynamic-empirical model for estuarine morphology. In: Dronkers J & Scheffers MBAM. (Eds.), Physics of Estuaries and Coastal Seas, Balkema, R ...automata (e.g. Dearing et al.<ref>Dearing JA, Richmond N, Plater AJ, Wolf J, Prandle D & Coulthard TJ (2006). Modelling approaches for coastal simulati
    36 KB (5,524 words) - 21:38, 28 June 2019
  • ...s (sandwaves), sandbanks and large almost linear sand ridges<ref>Dronkers, J. (2016) Dynamics of Coastal Systems 2nd edition. World Scientific Publ. Co. ...ith a small angle of 5°-30°. Adapted from Van de Meene<ref>Van de Meene, J.W.H. (1994) The shoreface-connected ridges along the central Dutch coast. P
    22 KB (3,464 words) - 15:25, 24 April 2021
  • ...s10236-014-0767-9</ref> and de Boer and Winterwerp<ref> De Boer, W.P. and J.C. Winterwerp, 2016. The role of fresh water discharge on siltation rates i ...nd coastal seas. Aqua Publications, The Netherlands </ref><ref>Winterwerp, J.C. and W.G.M. van Kesteren, 2004. Introduction to the physics of cohesive s
    33 KB (5,130 words) - 15:57, 27 February 2023
  • ...t, and R. A. Holman (2004), Observations of nearshore crescentic sandbars, J. Geophys. Res., 109 (C06028), doi:10.1029/2003JC002214</ref><ref name=CB>Ca ...Eng., 53, 191-208</ref> <ref name=DM>Dalrymple, R. A., J. H. MacMahan, A. J. H. M. Reniers, and V. Nelko (2011), Rip currents, Annu. Rev. Fluid Mech.,
    41 KB (6,530 words) - 10:19, 3 July 2022
  • |name=Job Dronkers ...c and counteracting cytoprotectants in high osmolarity and other stresses. J. Exp. Biol. 208: 2819–2830</ref>. The other strategy is used by the so-ca
    22 KB (3,117 words) - 23:14, 20 January 2024
  • ...ong-term trends in shoreline change<ref>Kahl, D.T., Vulis, L.M., Schubert, J.E. and Sanders, B.F. 2024. Characterizing longshore transport potential and where <math>E</math> is the wave energy density [J/m<sup>2</sup>]. The classical ‘CERC’-equation for calculating the longs
    26 KB (4,053 words) - 13:58, 30 April 2024
  • |name=Job Dronkers ...nd on the open ocean at latitudes below 40<sup>0</sup> <ref name=D>Davies, J. L. (1973), see Fig.1. Geographical variation in coastal development. Hafne
    24 KB (3,854 words) - 16:00, 30 June 2020
  • ...h> has been empirically determined by Hallermeier (1981<ref>Hallermeier, R.J. 1981. A profile zonation for seasonal sand beaches from wave climate. Coas ...=V19>Valiente, N.G., Masselink, G., Scott, T., Conley, D. and McCarroll, R.J. 2019. Role of waves and tides on depth of closure and potential for headla
    59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
  • ...Development of the profile of equilibrium of the subaqueous shore terrace. J. Geol., 10(1), 1–32.</ref>. For a more detailed explanation, see the arti ...ndward transport. Mar. Geol. 340: 71-81 </ref><ref>Dean, R.G. and Houston, J.R. 2016. Determining shoreline response to sea level rise. Coastal Engineer
    11 KB (1,739 words) - 22:49, 11 December 2022

View (previous 20 | next 20) (20 | 50 | 100 | 250 | 500)