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• Definitions of coastal terms
  Growth (vertical and/or horizontal) of morphological structures ([[#Beach|beach]], [[#Bar|bar]], [[#Dune|dune]], [[#Sand bank|sand bank]], [[#Tidal flat|ti ...a dune coast the front [[#Dunes|dune]] is part of the active coastal zone. See: [[Active coastal zone]].
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...drodynamic factors (tidal cycles, wave climate) and sediment supply. These beach fluctuations correspond to alternating phases of erosion and accretion. [[D ...of coastal erosion. The presence of the structure has a series of effects (see [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Shore nourishment
  ...rishments can be regarded as a 'natural' way of combating dune erosion and beach erosion as it artificially replaces a deficit in the sediment budget over a .... Generally practiced nourishment methods. Pipe discharge on the beach for beach nourishment, over the bow pumping (rainbowing) for nearshore nourishment an
  12 KB (1,875 words) - 15:32, 23 July 2023
• Coastline
  ...ignates the boundary between land and sea for use in shoreline management, see the article [[Shoreline]]. ...ch). Disadvantage for sedimentary coasts: it does not provide insight into beach erosion or accretion.
  6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
• Foreshore
  {{Definition|title=Foreshore / Beach face ...f wave uprush at high tide (the latter is identical to the seaward [[beach berm]]). For practical reasons the administrative upper delineation of the [[for
  2 KB (233 words) - 16:11, 5 October 2021
• Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions
  ...al Functions. EOF methods have been used with success to analyze nearshore beach topography, as will be described below. However, the technique may not be a ...the past (Dette and Newe, 1997).<ref> Dette, H. H. and Newe, J. 1997.Depot beach fill in front of a cliff. Monitoring of a nourishment site on the Island of
  25 KB (4,098 words) - 15:59, 20 November 2021
• Dune erosion
  ...idal coast of the southern North Sea. Marine Geology 276: 100–104</ref>, see also the article [[Dune development]]. The coastal dune belt in many cases ...can be taken away over several tens of meters, leaving a steep dune scarp, see Fig. 1. For the Dutch coast it has been estimated that under exceptional ci
  42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
• Beach nourishment
  {{Definition|title=Beach nourishment |definition=Artificial sand supply to the beach with sand imported from a source outside the [[active coastal zone]].}}
  9 KB (1,432 words) - 21:41, 21 November 2023
• Berm
  Definition|title=Berm |definition= There are two types of berm.
  367 bytes (50 words) - 11:56, 8 September 2020
• Beach face
  Definition|title=Beach face ...from the low-water line to the limit of maximum wave uprush (or the beach berm) at high tide. <ref>USACE 2008. Coastal Engineering Manual. Part IV, Ch. 1.
  1 KB (208 words) - 16:31, 31 March 2021
• Artificial reefs
  ...t can be more dangerous for surfing safety. For more detailed information, see [[Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments]]. For more detailed information, see [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]].
  41 KB (6,487 words) - 22:37, 2 July 2022
• Gravel Beaches
  ...ef name="Buscome 2006">Buscome D., Masselink G. (2006). Concepts in gravel beach dynamics. Earth science Reviews 79 33-52.</ref>. In the UK, about one third ..."Diserens">Diserens, A. P. & Coates, T. T. (1993). UK South Coast shingle beach study: storm response of shingle beaches. HR Wallingford Report SR 323.</r
  40 KB (6,109 words) - 17:19, 24 February 2023
• Wave energy converters in coastal structures
  ...s: Status and Challenges. Energies 11, 1250; doi:10.3390/en11051250</ref>, see also [[Wave energy converters]]. Six sites were selected (see Fig. 5) for a preliminary study of wave energy flux and capacity of integra
  20 KB (3,003 words) - 15:51, 25 February 2023
• Modelling coastal hydrodynamics
  ...setup and longshore currents, due to radiation stresses in shallow water (see [[Shallow-water wave theory]]). ...e gravitational effect of sun and moon, are periodic and very predictable (see [[Ocean and shelf tides]]). Surges, on the other hand, are quasi-periodic a
  99 KB (15,083 words) - 13:37, 7 November 2021
• Wave overtopping
  where the coefficients <math>a, b, c</math> depend on (see Fig. 2): ...ath> (approximately equal to the significant wave height <math>H_s</math>, see [[Statistical description of wave parameters]])
  7 KB (1,059 words) - 17:19, 24 January 2024
• Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
  See also: [[Definitions of coastal terms]]. * [[Wave transformation]] , see [[Shallow-water wave theory]]
  20 KB (2,422 words) - 12:26, 20 February 2024
• Extreme storms
  [[Image:PrinosFig1.2a.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Fig. 1b. Damage to beach front homes on Dauphin Island, AL, due to storm surge from Hurricane Katrin ...g1.4.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Fig. 1d. Storm waves from Lake Erie wash over a beach at Point Pelee National Park, Ontario. (credit: Environment and Climate Cha
  25 KB (3,812 words) - 20:36, 18 September 2023
• Swash zone dynamics
  ...eing very visible, is the region of the littoral zone most associated with beach erosion and the impacts of climate change. The landward edge of the swash z ...factor in the design of coastal protection and also generates hazards for beach users, and is the dominant process leading to the erosion of coastal dunes.
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Littoral drift and shoreline modelling
  ...d modification of littoral drift is a ubiquitous cause of coastal erosion (see [[Human causes of coastal erosion]]). Measuring littoral drift in field sit ...acterizing longshore transport potential and divergence of drift to inform beach loss trends. Coastal Engineering 189, 104473</ref>.
  26 KB (4,053 words) - 13:58, 30 April 2024
• Shoreface profile
  |definition= The shoreface profile, often called beach profile, is the cross-shore coastal depth profile of the shoreface. }} ...from wave climate. Coast. Eng. 4: 253–277</ref>), yielding the formula (see also [[Closure depth]])
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
• Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise
  ...terrace. J. Geol., 10(1), 1–32.</ref>. For a more detailed explanation, see the article [[Shoreface profile]]. ...rom the [[active coastal zone|active coastal profile]], for example a high berm, a (fore)dune or a sand barrier. This can only be the case if the sea level
  11 KB (1,739 words) - 22:49, 11 December 2022
• Coastal and marine sediments
  ...e. This is the reason why quartz is the predominant mineral in present day beach and river sands and is also common in most ancient sandstones. The rate at Clastic sediments can be classified according to grainsize, see Table 1. Grainsizes are indicative of the advancement of the weathering pro
  56 KB (8,246 words) - 17:33, 30 December 2023
• Wave run-up
  ...so-called [[swash]] bores: the uprush of waves after final collapse on the beach. Wave run-up is an important parameter for assessing the safety of sea dike ...f><ref>Holman, R.A. and Sallenger, A.H. 1985. Setup and swash on a natural beach. J. Geophys. Res. 90: 945–953</ref><ref name=A17>Atkinson, A.L., Power, H
  7 KB (1,082 words) - 13:00, 18 April 2024
• Classification of sandy coastlines
  ...aracterised by the presence of loose sediments on the shoreface and on the beach, will be included in the following rough classification.'' ...the present coastline and the coastline orientation of net zero transport, see the image [[Media:drift_budget_c.jpg|littoral drift budget]].
  17 KB (2,622 words) - 20:46, 31 March 2021
• Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments
  ...: (1) flexibility - the potential to accommodate (small) changes in seabed/beach level; (2) potential to dissipate wave energy, thus reducing wave loads on ...the structure is essentially a revetment or dike protecting the backshore berm, dune foot or cliff base. In the second case the structure is a breakwater.
  53 KB (8,270 words) - 18:27, 26 March 2024
• Chenier
  ...gh and 40 to 400 m wide, often shelly, deposited in the form of wave-built beach ridge on a swampy, deltaic, or alluvial coastal plain of fine sediment.}} A chenier plain is a [[strand plain]] consisting of long, narrow beach ridges (cheniers) and intervening mudflats with marsh or swamp vegetation.
  6 KB (884 words) - 13:20, 13 January 2024
• Swash
  ...on= Up and down propagation of bores formed after collapse of waves on the beach. Swash is the decelerating uprush phase and backwash is the accelerating do ...n the beach; the [[Wave run-up|swash uprush]] reaches the top of the beach berm. Photo credit: Dr Hannah Power, University of Newcastle, NSW, Australia.]]
  3 KB (447 words) - 20:17, 1 November 2022
• Shoreline retreat and recovery
  ...tructural sand loss/gain on the [[active coastal zone]]. The other type is beach erosion/accretion related to temporal variations of the shoreline. ...influence on large-scale coastal change. Geomorphology 199: 160-170</ref>. See [[Dealing with coastal erosion]], [[Human causes of coastal erosion]] and [
  29 KB (4,526 words) - 12:45, 24 April 2024