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  • Groynes
    ..., groynes partly dissipate energy of water motion during weak and moderate wave conditions, leading to [[accretion]] of the updrift shoreline. However, whe ...pact on shore morphology; the impact also depends on sea water level, wave climate and sediment supply in the surf zone.
    8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
  • Detached shore parallel breakwaters
    ...taking into consideration the physical and economic conditions (e.g. wave climate or quarries), the social environment (e.g. aesthetic rules or tourism) as w ...[[crest]] [[freeboard]], the higher the aesthetic impact and the lower the wave transmission to the shoreline is. The LCSs for shoreline erosion control ar
    6 KB (878 words) - 20:33, 4 July 2020
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts
    ...coasts are only found in environments that are fairly calm with respect to wave conditions, or where there is abundant supply of fine sediments. They are n ...climates where rivers supply abundant fine material to coastal zone (CZ). Wave exposure is normally low to moderate; the tidal regime can be any. [[Silt]]
    9 KB (1,308 words) - 15:59, 15 May 2021
  • Definitions of coastal terms
    ...ynamic, with up and down redistribution of sand by the action of tides, [[#Wave|waves]] and wind. It extends from the [[#Closure depth|closure depth]] up t ...urs, by [[#Refraction|refraction]]. See: [[Shallow-water wave theory]], [[Wave transformation]]. The [[#Deep water|deep water]] angle of incidence is ofte
    79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
  • Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
    ...om [[Tidal wave|waves]] transforming over a coastal profile and generating wave set up and [[Longshore current|longshore currents]], will result in movemen ...he water movements. These movements can be caused by the current or by the wave orbital velocities or a combination of both, the latter being the most impo
    29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
  • Natural causes of coastal erosion
    ...r the influence of fluctuating forcing (fluctuations in water levels, wave climate, including storms) have a temporal, quasi-cyclic character. Ongoing trends ...erosion and accretion in response to fluctuations in water level and wave climate (including storms) are temporal quasi-cyclic phenomena in this case, see [[
    14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
  • Human causes of coastal erosion
    ...l cause or a human cause. Climate change, which influences sea level, wave climate and sediment supply, is considered a natural cause. The largest structural *The wave climate and the orientation of the shoreline (see [[Classification of sandy coastli
    29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
  • Detached breakwaters
    ...ct a coast or activities along the coastline (e.g. ports, ship wharf) from wave action. In general terms, a detached breakwater is a coast-parallel structu *To provide shelter from [[Definitions of coastal terms#Wave|waves]]
    31 KB (4,715 words) - 23:55, 30 March 2024
  • Dune stabilisation
    ...ural protection ability of dune areas. It provides some protection against wave and storm surge attack and at the same time it preserves the natural coasta ...on moderately exposed to exposed coasts with perpendicular to very oblique wave (wind) attacks. There is ample evidence for the effectiveness of sand fence
    9 KB (1,306 words) - 19:25, 1 August 2023
  • Coves - artificial formation and use
    The formation and shape of a [[cove]] is fairly independent of the wave climate due to the relatively narrow opening. The [[cove]] concept is very similar ..., as the structures can only hold a short beach section due to the oblique wave exposure.
    4 KB (646 words) - 17:40, 18 January 2022
  • Waves
    ...ve period]] and a propagation direction. Wave fields with many different [[wave period]]s and heights are called irregular. ==Wave classifications==
    20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
  • Statistical description of wave parameters
    ...ibution of wave heights is given by the Rayleigh distribution. Statistical wave parameters are often calculated based on this distribution. The most common ===Significant wave height===
    24 KB (3,898 words) - 13:12, 23 November 2023
  • Wave climate classification according to wind climate
    ..., cause correspondingly characteristic wave climates. These characteristic wave climates can be classified as follows: ==Storm wave climate==
    6 KB (946 words) - 12:13, 16 September 2020
  • Currents
    ...stress]] gradients (in practive wave energy gradients) that arise through wave breaking. ...cross the surf zone towards the coastline, as explained in [[Shallow-water wave theory]]. This current has its maximum within the [[breaker zone]]. During
    14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
  • Bar
    ...each or on a tidal flat due to the landward transport of sand or gravel by wave uprush (swash). They may be related to onshore moving breaker bars. ...mobile formations, which tend to be in unstable equilibrium with the wave climate and tide conditions, which means that they are constantly changing.
    2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
  • Closure depth
    ...to continental shelf, and corresponds to the depth where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average insignificant compar ...nts]] are the dominant sediment-transporting mechanisms, as well as to non-wave dominated locations, such as the beach adjacent to a long jetty, at which s
    23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
  • Coastline
    ...of the corresponding measuring technique (e.g. not influenced by tide or [[wave run-up]]); ...influence of storms and the influence of seasonal variability in the wave climate.
    6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
  • Sea level rise
    ...g Group I to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Masson-Delmotte, V., P. Zhai, A. Pirani, S. L. Connors, C. Péan, S ...g Group I to the Fifth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Stocker, T.F., D. Qin, G.-K. Plattner, M. Tignor, S.K. Allen, J. Bo
    41 KB (6,164 words) - 16:08, 21 January 2024
  • Shoreline management
    ...e good beach quality by securing that the beaches are exposed to waves, as wave action maintains attractive sandy beaches. This will of course limit the ti ...scription of coastline; Physical significance (eg offshore banks dissipate wave energy, cliffs can provide a sediment supply etc.); Width of foreshore indi
    38 KB (5,697 words) - 22:31, 2 July 2022
  • Foresight project, UK
    ...cy and, importantly, direction. This should include analysis of a range of climate models and be combined with analysis of changes to surges to generate consi ...climate change. More fundamentally, the conflicting results from different climate models need more detailed comparison and analysis to study the causes of th
    3 KB (532 words) - 15:10, 22 July 2019

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