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• Groynes
  ...quate supply of sediment and existence of medium-strong longshore sediment transport are major conditions of groynes efficiency. The main function of a groyne is catching and trapping part of the sediment moving (mainly in a longshore direction) in the surf zone.
  8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
• Definitions of coastal terms
  ...[[active coastal zone]] (also called '''active coastal profile''') is the cross-shore coastal zone that is highly dynamic, with up and down redistribution of san ===Advective transport===
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
  ...al transport processes'' and is the main subject of this article. However, transport of fine sediments will also be discussed, but only very briefly. ==Sediment transport in general==
  29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
• Natural causes of coastal erosion
  ...l regions, but this can be a very slow process. So even though the coastal sediment cell is a theoretical concept, it can be very useful in practice for analys ...closed between headlands, assuming absence of net offshore or onshore sand transport. The orientation of the beach can change in response to fluctuations in the
  14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...tural cause. The largest structural changes in hydrodynamic conditions and sediment supply are generally due to human interventions. ...of the structure has a series of effects (see [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]):
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Shore nourishment
  ...n the sediment budget is generally due to divergence of longshore sediment transport. Shore nourishment does not eliminate this cause of erosion; erosion will c ...xample, a sand [[bypassing]] plant. The sand can also be supplied via land transport by dumpers.
  12 KB (1,875 words) - 15:32, 23 July 2023
• Beach drainage
  The transport of sediment across the beach face is performed by wave uprush and backwash. The uprush ...see Figure 1. Such interactions have a considerable impact on the sediment transport in the swash zone.
  11 KB (1,646 words) - 10:15, 1 May 2023
• Waves
  ...wave breakpoint as there will be a tendency for the incident waves to push sediment towards the beach, see [[Shoreface profile]]. ...nt fluxes which have been demonstrated to be important to the net sediment transport in the surf zone.
  20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
• Currents
  ...mplification, [[nearshore]] mean currents are usually separated into their cross-shore and longshore components: Undertows and rip currents have their principal a ...drift; this mechanism is discussed further in [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]].
  14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
• Bar
  ...than ripples, dunes or sandwaves). Bars arise from the interaction of the sediment bed with (tidal) currents and waves.}} ...idge formed on the intertidal beach or on a tidal flat due to the landward transport of sand or gravel by wave uprush (swash). They may be related to onshore mo
  2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
• Closure depth
  ...ds to the depth where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average insignificant compared to other influences. }} ...[[tide|tidal]] shoal where the tidal current is a major contributor to the sediment-transporting processes.
  23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
• Coastline
  ...is stable against sediment redistribution within a cross-shore zone. This cross-shore zone ranges from the dunefoot to a seaward boundary defined by the intersec ...tline management, from coastal monitoring to sand nourishment. Ministry of Transport, Public Works and Water Management, Directorate-General for Public Works an
  6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
• FUTURECOAST project, UK
  ...other units, which themselves give rise to a change in the level of energy/sediment input. ...predicting the response to change. This must take account of variations in sediment supply and forcing parameters, such as tide and wave energy. However, it is
  20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
• Groynes as shore protection
  ...he groyne further seawards can be lower, depending on the requirements for sediment bypass, etc. ...with a slightly oblique wave climate with increasing littoral drift in the transport. Upper panel: Shoreline without any structures; middle panel: Effect of a s
  21 KB (3,352 words) - 17:17, 5 October 2021
• CNEXO experimental SandPit in Seine Estuary
  ...d to collect wave data and the location of two well-known and well-studied sediment deposits (Octeville deposit and Kannick deposit). A sediment study of the East part of the Seine bay was carried out in 1967 and showed
  10 KB (1,558 words) - 20:28, 28 June 2019
• Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
  ...biological/chemical phenomena that occur in the marine environment. The '''transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients and tracers in mixed nearshore wate ...ce, but also in wider regions, determined primarily by the direct physical transport in marine waters. <ref name="Lekien">Lekien F., Coulliette C., Mariano A.J.
  19 KB (2,775 words) - 16:03, 7 October 2021
• Behaviour-based models
  ...ls, except for the fact that in process-based models the hydrodynamics and transport processes are clearly integrated in the model (to the best knowledge or for ...in equilibrium, and that diffusion is the dominant process for cross-shore transport. In such a model the diffusion coefficient is adjusted until the model repr
  6 KB (828 words) - 13:50, 12 November 2021
• Parametric equilibrium models
  ...> examined beach profiles in Denmark and California and concluded that the cross-shore profile in the vertical could be expressed in the form: ...l, EM 1110-2-1100.</ref>). The sediment scale parameter can be related to sediment size or fall speed <ref name=D/> so the equation above can be used to make
  8 KB (1,195 words) - 12:36, 3 October 2021
• Blue carbon sequestration
  ...oastal habitats followed by ocean storage is relevant and may exceed local sediment burial as a long-term (>centuries) blue carbon sequestration mechanism<ref ...posed network of roots that grow down from the branches into the water and sediment. They settle where the average monthly temperature is higher than 20°C, wh
  41 KB (6,267 words) - 13:40, 21 April 2024
• Coastal mud belt
  ...hat case, a feedback mechanism can be triggered whereby deposition of fine sediment creates a condition appropriate for ongoing deposition. This mechanism is t ...tion with the bed (see [[Shoreface profile]]) also plays a role in onshore transport.
  24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024
• Tidal asymmetry and tidal inlet morphodynamics
  ...term average transport of sediment, because the dependence of the sediment transport <math>q_s</math> on the flow strength follows the approximate formula ...negative) skewness implies net upstream (downstream) tide-induced sediment transport.
  53 KB (8,417 words) - 12:56, 20 January 2024
• Stability models
  For instance, in a coastal system, <math> \alpha </math> could represent sediment grain size or wave height, and ...hanges in sediment transport thereby appearing convergences/divergences of sediment flux and morphological changes. These morphological changes may either rein
  41 KB (6,565 words) - 16:15, 4 October 2021
• Dune erosion
  ...e reinforcement of the single protecting dune row through wind-driven sand transport from the widened beach<ref>Gerdes, E., Koning, R., Kort, M. and Soomers, H. ..., will be reshaped during a severe storm surge. Offshore directed sediment transport will occur, including sand eroded from the dune.
  42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
• Submarine groundwater discharge
  ...g storm conditions, all other geophysical drivers of fluid flow across the sediment-water interface (Sawyer et al., 2013<ref>Sawyer A. H., Shi F., Kirby J. T. ...ig. 2. Example of “sand boils”, where freshwater is flowing out of the sediment.]]
  31 KB (4,626 words) - 12:46, 12 August 2021
• Measuring instruments for rivers
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. * [[bed load]] transport,
  4 KB (591 words) - 20:17, 29 June 2019
• Measuring instruments for coasts
  ...s which instruments are available to measure different aspects of sediment transport along the coast. The article also goes into location of sampling. * [[bed load]] transport,
  12 KB (1,782 words) - 11:43, 7 September 2020
• Definitions, processes and models in morphology
  ...ref>. This articles describes a wide variety of topics related to sediment transport and processes. ...transport, while the suspended particles are transported as suspended load transport. The suspended load may also include the fine [[silt]] particles brought in
  11 KB (1,603 words) - 22:20, 1 July 2020
• Principles, statistics and errors of measuring sediment transport
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ==Measuring principles for suspended load transport==
  7 KB (944 words) - 15:27, 20 August 2020
• Measuring instruments for sediment transport
  ...describes different measurement instruments available to measure sediment transport in rivers, coastal seas and estuaries. Many of these instruments are also d ...is represented as the summation of the [[bed load]] and [[suspended load]] transport.
  27 KB (3,920 words) - 22:17, 19 August 2020
• Measuring instruments for fluid velocity, pressure and wave height
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. * optical sediment concentration point [[sensor|sensors]],
  10 KB (1,442 words) - 20:14, 29 June 2019
• Land-ocean interaction in the coastal zone
  #The '''transport and changes''' in, sediments and nutrient cycles in coastal and shelf water Runoff, groundwater flows, nutrient and sediment loads are all affected by human activity and especially human-induced chang
  13 KB (1,995 words) - 17:08, 20 September 2020
• Bed form tracking
  ...ulics Laboratory</ref>. This article describes how to compute [[bed load]] transport from measured bed form profiles. ...nditions and undisturbed [[bedforms|bed form]] migration, the [[bed load]] transport rate can be computed from the bed form dimensions (Engel and Lau, 1980<ref>
  5 KB (760 words) - 17:12, 29 June 2019
• USD-49 depth-integrating sampler
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ==Determination of the suspended sediment transport==
  4 KB (650 words) - 15:19, 22 August 2020
• Collapsible-Bag depth-integrating sampler
  ...psible-Bag sampler to determine the depth-integrated [[suspended load]] of sediment. ...C.C., Abel, M.B.(1983) ''New Technology for Measuring Water and Suspended Sediment Discharge of Large Rivers''.</ref> have used a large-volume (6 litres) bag
  6 KB (946 words) - 11:28, 19 August 2020
• Pump sampling in unidirectional and oscillatory flow
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ...ation. Similar results were obtained for 220 um, 280 um, 360 um and 450 um-sediment. This systematic error can be corrected for.
  10 KB (1,576 words) - 15:33, 20 August 2020
• General principles of optical and acoustical instruments
  ...stuaries and Coastal Seas]] <ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ...ical sampling methods enable the continuous and contactless measurement of sediment concentrations, which is an important advantage compared to the mechanical
  9 KB (1,204 words) - 17:09, 26 October 2020
• Acoustic backscatter profiling sensors (ABS)
  ...stuaries and Coastal Seas]] <ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ...and Vincent, C.E..''An acoustic backscatter instrument to measure near-bed sediment processes''. http://www.aquatecgroup.com.</ref> Hereafter, a summary of th
  22 KB (3,217 words) - 11:14, 9 September 2020
• Optical Laser diffraction instruments (LISST)
  ...[oceanographic instruments|instruments]] to measure the [[suspended load]] transport. ...grawal, Y.C. and Pottsmith, H.C. 2002. ''Laser Diffraction Method: two new sediment sensors''. Sequoia Inc., USA [http://www.sequoiasci.com].</ref>). Diffracti
  9 KB (1,258 words) - 21:00, 29 June 2019
• Seawalls and revetments
  ...expected scour depths can be made <ref>Steetzel, H.J. (1993). Cross-shore Transport during Storm Surges. Ph.D. Thesis Delft University of Technology.</ref>. ...ere storm surge, a rather dangerous situation will occur. Large volumes of sediment from the mainland are able to disappear through the gap and will flow along
  13 KB (2,089 words) - 20:07, 18 September 2023
• Mangroves
  ...posed network of roots that grow down from the branches into the water and sediment. They settle where there is little [[waves|wave action]] and where muddy [[ ...action]] and [[tidal current]]s, the range of the [[tide]], the type of [[sediment]] and the chemistry of the seawater. The global distribution of mangroves i
  42 KB (6,310 words) - 17:09, 21 April 2024
• Typical examples of structural erosion
  ...ith two long breakwaters along a sandy coast with a net longshore sediment transport in a given direction (e.g. in m3/year), induces two typical morphological f ===Longshore sediment transport===
  8 KB (1,293 words) - 20:50, 31 March 2021
• Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal
  ...mainly wave induced. The dominant direction is from west to east. Aeolian transport is negligible. :*beach narrowing due to the updrift interception of littoral sand transport at Quarteira, Vilamoura Marina and other defence structures;
  37 KB (5,937 words) - 18:06, 18 January 2022
• Application and use of underwater video
  ...eology; 42:1-4, pp. 233-258</ref>), [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sediment sediment] studies ...., Greenwood B. (1991); Frequency dependent cross-shore suspended sediment transport. 2. A barred shoreface; Marine Geology; 106, pp. 25-51 </ref>), [http://en.
  14 KB (2,095 words) - 13:21, 7 December 2023
• Bottle and trap samplers
  ...stuaries and Coastal Seas]] <ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. in which: G= dry mass of sediment (mg), V = volume of water sample (l).
  13 KB (1,984 words) - 12:21, 12 August 2020
• Beach nourishment
  ...e beach material will not strongly disturb the existing longshore sediment transport and thus will not change the occurring losses. Therefore the erosion will n ...ransport processes is discussed in the article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]].
  9 KB (1,432 words) - 21:41, 21 November 2023
• Impact of tourism in coastal areas: Need of sustainable tourism strategy
  ...] in many parts of the world, through people touching reefs, stirring up [[sediment]], and dropping anchors. ...engers can significantly degrade [[coral reefs]] through the build-up of [[sediment]]. Furthermore, sand mining at the beaches leads to [[coastal erosion]]. In
  26 KB (3,689 words) - 17:28, 5 May 2023
• Dynamics and structure of the water and matter ex-change between the Wadden Sea and the German Bight
  ...water bodies including the dissolved and suspended matter and the bedload transport of the sand over a full cross-section of a tidal inlet connecting the Wadde In wintertime, when suspended sediment dynamics is expected to be highest, the stations must be removed because on
  13 KB (2,006 words) - 14:59, 2 July 2023
• Nearshore sandbars
  ...Losada, I.J. 2022. Analysis of the mechanics of breaker bar generation in cross-shore beach profiles based on numerical modelling. Coastal Engineering 177, 10417 ...by other processes that limit bar growth, such as gravity-induced sediment transport down the bar slopes<ref name=ZA>van der Zanden, J., van der A, D.A., Hurthe
  24 KB (3,613 words) - 17:34, 14 November 2023
• Deteriorated groynes
  ...eteriorating groynes contributes to the reduction of erosion rates of fill sediment. ...earby cliffs. This formation was naturally nourished by longshore sediment transport, running predominantly from west to east. In past centuries this system was
  25 KB (3,878 words) - 17:18, 3 September 2020
• Shore protection vegetation
  ...ms and high water levels. This sand also nourishes further aeolian inshore transport and increases the sand volume of the dunes behind. ..., J., Walker, I., Bauer, B., Delgado-Fernandez, I. and Smyth, T.A.G. 2018. Sediment budget controls on foredune height: a comparison of simulation model result
  76 KB (10,699 words) - 12:24, 15 November 2023

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