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  • Groynes
    ..., groynes partly dissipate energy of water motion during weak and moderate wave conditions, leading to [[accretion]] of the updrift shoreline. However, whe ...pact on shore morphology; the impact also depends on sea water level, wave climate and sediment supply in the surf zone.
    8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
  • Detached shore parallel breakwaters
    ...taking into consideration the physical and economic conditions (e.g. wave climate or quarries), the social environment (e.g. aesthetic rules or tourism) as w ...[[crest]] [[freeboard]], the higher the aesthetic impact and the lower the wave transmission to the shoreline is. The LCSs for shoreline erosion control ar
    6 KB (878 words) - 20:33, 4 July 2020
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts
    ...coasts are only found in environments that are fairly calm with respect to wave conditions, or where there is abundant supply of fine sediments. They are n ...climates where rivers supply abundant fine material to coastal zone (CZ). Wave exposure is normally low to moderate; the tidal regime can be any. [[Silt]]
    9 KB (1,308 words) - 15:59, 15 May 2021
  • Definitions of coastal terms
    ...ynamic, with up and down redistribution of sand by the action of tides, [[#Wave|waves]] and wind. It extends from the [[#Closure depth|closure depth]] up t ...urs, by [[#Refraction|refraction]]. See: [[Shallow-water wave theory]], [[Wave transformation]]. The [[#Deep water|deep water]] angle of incidence is ofte
    79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
  • Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
    ...om [[Tidal wave|waves]] transforming over a coastal profile and generating wave set up and [[Longshore current|longshore currents]], will result in movemen ...he water movements. These movements can be caused by the current or by the wave orbital velocities or a combination of both, the latter being the most impo
    29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
  • Natural causes of coastal erosion
    ...r the influence of fluctuating forcing (fluctuations in water levels, wave climate, including storms) have a temporal, quasi-cyclic character. Ongoing trends ...erosion and accretion in response to fluctuations in water level and wave climate (including storms) are temporal quasi-cyclic phenomena in this case, see [[
    14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
  • Human causes of coastal erosion
    ...l cause or a human cause. Climate change, which influences sea level, wave climate and sediment supply, is considered a natural cause. The largest structural *The wave climate and the orientation of the shoreline (see [[Classification of sandy coastli
    29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
  • Detached breakwaters
    ...ct a coast or activities along the coastline (e.g. ports, ship wharf) from wave action. In general terms, a detached breakwater is a coast-parallel structu *To provide shelter from [[Definitions of coastal terms#Wave|waves]]
    31 KB (4,715 words) - 23:55, 30 March 2024
  • Dune stabilisation
    ...ural protection ability of dune areas. It provides some protection against wave and storm surge attack and at the same time it preserves the natural coasta ...on moderately exposed to exposed coasts with perpendicular to very oblique wave (wind) attacks. There is ample evidence for the effectiveness of sand fence
    9 KB (1,306 words) - 19:25, 1 August 2023
  • Coves - artificial formation and use
    The formation and shape of a [[cove]] is fairly independent of the wave climate due to the relatively narrow opening. The [[cove]] concept is very similar ..., as the structures can only hold a short beach section due to the oblique wave exposure.
    4 KB (646 words) - 17:40, 18 January 2022
  • Waves
    ...ve period]] and a propagation direction. Wave fields with many different [[wave period]]s and heights are called irregular. ==Wave classifications==
    20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
  • Statistical description of wave parameters
    ...ibution of wave heights is given by the Rayleigh distribution. Statistical wave parameters are often calculated based on this distribution. The most common ===Significant wave height===
    24 KB (3,898 words) - 13:12, 23 November 2023
  • Wave climate classification according to wind climate
    ..., cause correspondingly characteristic wave climates. These characteristic wave climates can be classified as follows: ==Storm wave climate==
    6 KB (946 words) - 12:13, 16 September 2020
  • Currents
    ...stress]] gradients (in practive wave energy gradients) that arise through wave breaking. ...cross the surf zone towards the coastline, as explained in [[Shallow-water wave theory]]. This current has its maximum within the [[breaker zone]]. During
    14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
  • Bar
    ...each or on a tidal flat due to the landward transport of sand or gravel by wave uprush (swash). They may be related to onshore moving breaker bars. ...mobile formations, which tend to be in unstable equilibrium with the wave climate and tide conditions, which means that they are constantly changing.
    2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
  • Closure depth
    ...to continental shelf, and corresponds to the depth where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average insignificant compar ...nts]] are the dominant sediment-transporting mechanisms, as well as to non-wave dominated locations, such as the beach adjacent to a long jetty, at which s
    23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
  • Coastline
    ...of the corresponding measuring technique (e.g. not influenced by tide or [[wave run-up]]); ...influence of storms and the influence of seasonal variability in the wave climate.
    6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
  • Sea level rise
    ...g Group I to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Masson-Delmotte, V., P. Zhai, A. Pirani, S. L. Connors, C. Péan, S ...g Group I to the Fifth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Stocker, T.F., D. Qin, G.-K. Plattner, M. Tignor, S.K. Allen, J. Bo
    41 KB (6,164 words) - 16:08, 21 January 2024
  • Shoreline management
    ...e good beach quality by securing that the beaches are exposed to waves, as wave action maintains attractive sandy beaches. This will of course limit the ti ...scription of coastline; Physical significance (eg offshore banks dissipate wave energy, cliffs can provide a sediment supply etc.); Width of foreshore indi
    38 KB (5,697 words) - 22:31, 2 July 2022
  • Foresight project, UK
    ...cy and, importantly, direction. This should include analysis of a range of climate models and be combined with analysis of changes to surges to generate consi ...climate change. More fundamentally, the conflicting results from different climate models need more detailed comparison and analysis to study the causes of th
    3 KB (532 words) - 15:10, 22 July 2019
  • FUTURECOAST project, UK
    ...of variations in sediment supply and forcing parameters, such as tide and wave energy. However, it is also important to look for situations where the syst ...evolution, are the underlying geology and coastal forcing, e.g. prevailing wave activity. Large-scale shoreline evolution may be broadly considered in term
    20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
  • Groynes as shore protection
    *type 1: ''Perpendicular wave incidence'', angle of incidence close to zero, small net littoral drift *type 2: ''Nearly perpendicular wave incidence '', angle of incidence 1<sup>o</sup> - 10<sup>o</sup>, net littor
    21 KB (3,352 words) - 17:17, 5 October 2021
  • How to apply models
    [[Image:figure1.jpg|thumb|350px|right|Fig. 1. Illustration of important wave and littoral transport processes]] *[[Waves#Wave generation|Wave generation]] and wave propagation from [[deep water]] to [[shallow water]]
    18 KB (2,697 words) - 11:29, 20 February 2024
  • DeCyDe for Sustainability Policy tool
    ...f wind and wave power installations and, of course, the unknown effects of climate change are ever-present. Today, coastal degradation is still rapidly occurr :# Energy & Climate Change (1 optional indicator).
    25 KB (3,543 words) - 21:40, 7 August 2021
  • CNEXO experimental SandPit in Seine Estuary
    ...and also shows both the location of the Candhis wave buoy used to collect wave data and the location of two well-known and well-studied sediment deposits [[Image:climate.JPG|thumb|Figure 6: Simplified wave climate]]
    10 KB (1,558 words) - 20:28, 28 June 2019
  • Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions
    ...mics as eigenfunctions are fixed in space since bars, on the contrary, are wave-like patterns that travel in time. Extended EOFs and Complex Principal Comp ...e than 32 years, see Fig. 2. No firm explanation for the existence of this wave could be provided. Physical mechanisms that may produce standing shoreline
    25 KB (4,098 words) - 15:59, 20 November 2021
  • Parametric equilibrium models
    ...iles would take the form shown above if the dominant destructive force was wave energy dissipation per unit volume (Dean et al., 2002 <ref name=D>Dean, R.G ...ly suitable for assessing the sensitivity of eroding soft cliffs to future climate change. On the other hand both Cooper and Pilkey (2004b)<ref> Cooper, J.A.
    8 KB (1,195 words) - 12:36, 3 October 2021
  • Blue carbon sequestration
    ...way and possess self-sustaining capacity by promoting sedimentation, see [[Climate adaptation measures for the coastal zone]]. They also contribute to the goa ...by calcifying organisms (e.g. [[coral reefs]], oyster reefs) contribute to climate change adaptation through energy dissipation and contribution to sediments,
    41 KB (6,267 words) - 13:40, 21 April 2024
  • Coastal mud belt
    ...y, P., Rogers, W.E., Pednekar, P.S., Babu, M.T and Dineshkumar, P.K. 2017. Wave energy dissipation due to mudbanks formed off southwest coast of India. Est ...e fluid mud layer by pushing it onshore. Onshore-offshore asymmetry of the wave orbital motion due to nonlinearity of the interaction with the bed (see [[S
    24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024
  • Waves and currents by X-band radar
    ...and currents. Due to climate change and its impact on coastal protection, wave and current measurements are of growing importance. ...re and software components, the nautical radar can be used as wave sensor. Wave measurements by X-Band radar systems are a reliable data source for support
    12 KB (1,894 words) - 11:32, 25 January 2024
  • Stability models
    Similarly, a beach under constant wave forcing is commonly assumed to reach after some time certain equilibrium pr ...astal system, <math> \alpha </math> could represent sediment grain size or wave height, and
    41 KB (6,565 words) - 16:15, 4 October 2021
  • Dune erosion
    |definition= Sand loss from a dune under wave attack, mainly by notching, avalanching and slumping processes.}} ...lines worldwide during the last millennia when sea-level rise slowed down. Wave action and onshore winds are the main agents for coastal dune development a
    42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
  • Effect of climate change on coastline evolution
    ...h is based on extrapolation of historic behaviour, is inappropriate if the climate changes. ...of sandy coasts with no cliff or shore platform. It assumes that the wave climate is steady and consequently the (average equilibrium) [[beach profile]] does
    8 KB (1,288 words) - 21:24, 19 March 2021
  • Mediterranean Sea and Region, including Adriatic Sea
    ...decreasing freshwater due to dams and river diversions. Under the changing climate regime, sea surface temperatures and salinity will increase. [[Biodiversity ...les, for the Mediterranean, complex interactions between overfishing and [[climate change]] could facilitate [[ecosystem]] shifts. An example is the presence
    11 KB (1,724 words) - 10:56, 1 August 2020
  • Greek case studies: Morphological evolution of the R.Alfios deltaic shoreline
    ...3</sup>/s. In accordance to high amounts of water discharge, the temperate climate, the relatively erodible lithology (Quaternary deposits and flysch ~52%), a ...nd W and NW. Due to very long (hundreds of km) fetches, a wave regime with wave heights >5 m during storms drives a longshore northward sediment transport
    5 KB (726 words) - 10:06, 2 July 2020
  • Mangroves
    ...P.M.F., van den Berg, N.J.F., Siemerink, M. and Hulscher, S.J.M.H. 2014. Wave attenuation in mangroves: A quantitative approach to field observations. Co * Shores must be free of strong [[waves|wave]] action and strong [[tidal current]]s.
    42 KB (6,310 words) - 17:09, 21 April 2024
  • Seagrass meadows
    The environmental tolerance thresholds of seagrass species in different climate zones vary by species. Habitat Suitability Indices that associate seagrass ...that are able to adapt their environment: they clarify water by damping wave action and retaining fine sediments and they modify substrate chemistry by
    37 KB (5,414 words) - 20:23, 24 December 2023
  • Coastal squeeze
    This article complements the article '[[Effects of global climate change on European marine biodiversity]]' by Lieven Therry with a shorth in ...hese shorebirds<ref name="Nicholls"> Nicholls, R.J.; Klein, R.J.T. (2005). Climate change and coastal management in Europe's coast, '''in''': Vermaat, J.E. ''
    7 KB (1,034 words) - 13:09, 6 March 2022
  • Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal
    ...e intervention area, in the range of 0.25 to 0.5m/s. On the downdrift area wave breaking currents can reach values of around 2m/s. .... The tide and wave values indicate that, in general, this is a mesotidal, wave-dominated coast.
    37 KB (5,937 words) - 18:06, 18 January 2022
  • Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes
    Salt marshes are regularly subjected to tidal movement and wave action. Tidal channels control the drainage of this seawater and allow [[de ...ecies compensate for lack of competitive ability by being more tolerant to wave disturbance than high shore species (Pennings and Calloway 1992 <ref>PENNIN
    18 KB (2,451 words) - 18:54, 7 March 2023
  • Bulkheads
    ...course, be designed to resist erosion caused by the mild to moderate wave climate at a specific site.
    2 KB (305 words) - 12:17, 16 September 2020
  • Large scale mapping of intertidal areas
    ...opments within the national park areas. For ascertaining the influences of climate change as well as short term disturbances like large scale coastal construc ...probably shows a lower sensitivity to current velocity and disturbances by wave energy (Fig. 7).
    10 KB (1,456 words) - 18:47, 28 April 2009
  • Salt marshes
    ...t extensive development of saltmarshes occurs in estuaries with a moderate climate, large tidal range, abundant fine-grained sediments and sheltered locations ...gh the tidal channels of these high marshes. Lateral channel migration and wave attack at the base of marsh cliffs are the main mechanisms for erosion of m
    28 KB (4,120 words) - 21:17, 24 April 2024
  • Coral reefs
    ...cold waters and soft corals that live in shallow, cold waters. Corals are wave resistant rock structures, created by calcium carbonate secreting animals a ...Horizontal and vertical [[zonation]] depends on bottom topography, depth, wave and current strength, light, temperature and suspended sediments.
    27 KB (4,098 words) - 22:25, 5 April 2024
  • Ocean circulation
    ..., the El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO) in particular, produce important climate fluctuations. Ocean currents not only distribute heat, but they also play a ...f the coupled ocean-atmosphere dynamics produces large fluctuations in the climate of the Pacific region, which are felt at the global scale. Weakening of the
    17 KB (2,486 words) - 15:39, 3 May 2021
  • Surf zone
    ...where waves break as a consequence of depth limitation and surf onshore as wave bores.}} ...level. The surf zone is narrow and close to the shoreline in a gentle wave climate and can be very wide under storm conditions, extending from the seaward bou
    808 bytes (124 words) - 12:57, 12 April 2022
  • Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast
    ...l Panel on Climate Change provide strong evidence that an ongoing global [[climate change]] will cause increased storminess and [[sea level rise]] in coastal ...[[coastal defence]], has to be steadily adjusted to be prepared for future climate conditions.
    25 KB (3,734 words) - 11:46, 17 February 2024
  • Baltic Sea
    ...of mild Atlantic climate in south-west end to harsh continental – boreal climate in Bothnian Bay area. It is connected with Atlantic Ocean through system o .... Composed mainly of sand, are vulnerable to mechanical stress of wind and wave action and due to its mobility is not conducive to seaweeds and vascular p
    14 KB (2,085 words) - 15:24, 20 September 2020
  • Carrying capacity and development of the Wadden Sea
    ...these highly dynamic environments against a changing baseline due to e.g. climate change. This complexity and uncertainty means that the significance of effe ...for the Wadden Sea while at the same time water tempature is rising due to climate change or the competition for habitat and food is increasing due to the inv
    11 KB (1,721 words) - 12:53, 6 March 2022
  • Coastal cities and sea level rise
    This article deals with the potential impact of climate change on cities that are located on the coast and therefore vulnerable to == Vulnerability to climate change and sea level rise==
    51 KB (7,528 words) - 12:22, 22 January 2024

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