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• Groynes
  ...quate supply of sediment and existence of medium-strong longshore sediment transport are major conditions of groynes efficiency. The main function of a groyne is catching and trapping part of the sediment moving (mainly in a longshore direction) in the surf zone.
  8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
• Definitions of coastal terms
  ...[[active coastal zone]] (also called '''active coastal profile''') is the cross-shore coastal zone that is highly dynamic, with up and down redistribution of san ===Advective transport===
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
  ...al transport processes'' and is the main subject of this article. However, transport of fine sediments will also be discussed, but only very briefly. ==Sediment transport in general==
  29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
• Natural causes of coastal erosion
  ...l regions, but this can be a very slow process. So even though the coastal sediment cell is a theoretical concept, it can be very useful in practice for analys ...closed between headlands, assuming absence of net offshore or onshore sand transport. The orientation of the beach can change in response to fluctuations in the
  14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...tural cause. The largest structural changes in hydrodynamic conditions and sediment supply are generally due to human interventions. ...of the structure has a series of effects (see [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]):
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Shore nourishment
  ...n the sediment budget is generally due to divergence of longshore sediment transport. Shore nourishment does not eliminate this cause of erosion; erosion will c ...xample, a sand [[bypassing]] plant. The sand can also be supplied via land transport by dumpers.
  12 KB (1,875 words) - 15:32, 23 July 2023
• Beach drainage
  The transport of sediment across the beach face is performed by wave uprush and backwash. The uprush ...see Figure 1. Such interactions have a considerable impact on the sediment transport in the swash zone.
  11 KB (1,646 words) - 10:15, 1 May 2023
• Waves
  ...wave breakpoint as there will be a tendency for the incident waves to push sediment towards the beach, see [[Shoreface profile]]. ...nt fluxes which have been demonstrated to be important to the net sediment transport in the surf zone.
  20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
• Currents
  ...mplification, [[nearshore]] mean currents are usually separated into their cross-shore and longshore components: Undertows and rip currents have their principal a ...drift; this mechanism is discussed further in [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]].
  14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
• Bar
  ...than ripples, dunes or sandwaves). Bars arise from the interaction of the sediment bed with (tidal) currents and waves.}} ...idge formed on the intertidal beach or on a tidal flat due to the landward transport of sand or gravel by wave uprush (swash). They may be related to onshore mo
  2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
• Closure depth
  ...ds to the depth where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average insignificant compared to other influences. }} ...[[tide|tidal]] shoal where the tidal current is a major contributor to the sediment-transporting processes.
  23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
• Coastline
  ...is stable against sediment redistribution within a cross-shore zone. This cross-shore zone ranges from the dunefoot to a seaward boundary defined by the intersec ...tline management, from coastal monitoring to sand nourishment. Ministry of Transport, Public Works and Water Management, Directorate-General for Public Works an
  6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
• FUTURECOAST project, UK
  ...other units, which themselves give rise to a change in the level of energy/sediment input. ...predicting the response to change. This must take account of variations in sediment supply and forcing parameters, such as tide and wave energy. However, it is
  20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
• Groynes as shore protection
  ...he groyne further seawards can be lower, depending on the requirements for sediment bypass, etc. ...with a slightly oblique wave climate with increasing littoral drift in the transport. Upper panel: Shoreline without any structures; middle panel: Effect of a s
  21 KB (3,352 words) - 17:17, 5 October 2021
• CNEXO experimental SandPit in Seine Estuary
  ...d to collect wave data and the location of two well-known and well-studied sediment deposits (Octeville deposit and Kannick deposit). A sediment study of the East part of the Seine bay was carried out in 1967 and showed
  10 KB (1,558 words) - 20:28, 28 June 2019
• Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
  ...biological/chemical phenomena that occur in the marine environment. The '''transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients and tracers in mixed nearshore wate ...ce, but also in wider regions, determined primarily by the direct physical transport in marine waters. <ref name="Lekien">Lekien F., Coulliette C., Mariano A.J.
  19 KB (2,775 words) - 16:03, 7 October 2021
• Behaviour-based models
  ...ls, except for the fact that in process-based models the hydrodynamics and transport processes are clearly integrated in the model (to the best knowledge or for ...in equilibrium, and that diffusion is the dominant process for cross-shore transport. In such a model the diffusion coefficient is adjusted until the model repr
  6 KB (828 words) - 13:50, 12 November 2021
• Parametric equilibrium models
  ...> examined beach profiles in Denmark and California and concluded that the cross-shore profile in the vertical could be expressed in the form: ...l, EM 1110-2-1100.</ref>). The sediment scale parameter can be related to sediment size or fall speed <ref name=D/> so the equation above can be used to make
  8 KB (1,195 words) - 12:36, 3 October 2021
• Blue carbon sequestration
  ...oastal habitats followed by ocean storage is relevant and may exceed local sediment burial as a long-term (>centuries) blue carbon sequestration mechanism<ref ...posed network of roots that grow down from the branches into the water and sediment. They settle where the average monthly temperature is higher than 20°C, wh
  41 KB (6,267 words) - 13:40, 21 April 2024
• Coastal mud belt
  ...hat case, a feedback mechanism can be triggered whereby deposition of fine sediment creates a condition appropriate for ongoing deposition. This mechanism is t ...tion with the bed (see [[Shoreface profile]]) also plays a role in onshore transport.
  24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024

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