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• Groynes
  ...quate supply of sediment and existence of medium-strong longshore sediment transport are major conditions of groynes efficiency. The main function of a groyne is catching and trapping part of the sediment moving (mainly in a longshore direction) in the surf zone.
  8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
• Definitions of coastal terms
  ...[[active coastal zone]] (also called '''active coastal profile''') is the cross-shore coastal zone that is highly dynamic, with up and down redistribution of san ===Advective transport===
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
  ...al transport processes'' and is the main subject of this article. However, transport of fine sediments will also be discussed, but only very briefly. ==Sediment transport in general==
  29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
• Natural causes of coastal erosion
  ...l regions, but this can be a very slow process. So even though the coastal sediment cell is a theoretical concept, it can be very useful in practice for analys ...closed between headlands, assuming absence of net offshore or onshore sand transport. The orientation of the beach can change in response to fluctuations in the
  14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...tural cause. The largest structural changes in hydrodynamic conditions and sediment supply are generally due to human interventions. ...of the structure has a series of effects (see [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]):
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Shore nourishment
  ...n the sediment budget is generally due to divergence of longshore sediment transport. Shore nourishment does not eliminate this cause of erosion; erosion will c ...xample, a sand [[bypassing]] plant. The sand can also be supplied via land transport by dumpers.
  12 KB (1,875 words) - 15:32, 23 July 2023
• Beach drainage
  The transport of sediment across the beach face is performed by wave uprush and backwash. The uprush ...see Figure 1. Such interactions have a considerable impact on the sediment transport in the swash zone.
  11 KB (1,646 words) - 10:15, 1 May 2023
• Waves
  ...wave breakpoint as there will be a tendency for the incident waves to push sediment towards the beach, see [[Shoreface profile]]. ...nt fluxes which have been demonstrated to be important to the net sediment transport in the surf zone.
  20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
• Currents
  ...mplification, [[nearshore]] mean currents are usually separated into their cross-shore and longshore components: Undertows and rip currents have their principal a ...drift; this mechanism is discussed further in [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]].
  14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
• Bar
  ...than ripples, dunes or sandwaves). Bars arise from the interaction of the sediment bed with (tidal) currents and waves.}} ...idge formed on the intertidal beach or on a tidal flat due to the landward transport of sand or gravel by wave uprush (swash). They may be related to onshore mo
  2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
• Closure depth
  ...ds to the depth where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average insignificant compared to other influences. }} ...[[tide|tidal]] shoal where the tidal current is a major contributor to the sediment-transporting processes.
  23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
• Coastline
  ...is stable against sediment redistribution within a cross-shore zone. This cross-shore zone ranges from the dunefoot to a seaward boundary defined by the intersec ...tline management, from coastal monitoring to sand nourishment. Ministry of Transport, Public Works and Water Management, Directorate-General for Public Works an
  6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
• FUTURECOAST project, UK
  ...other units, which themselves give rise to a change in the level of energy/sediment input. ...predicting the response to change. This must take account of variations in sediment supply and forcing parameters, such as tide and wave energy. However, it is
  20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
• Groynes as shore protection
  ...he groyne further seawards can be lower, depending on the requirements for sediment bypass, etc. ...with a slightly oblique wave climate with increasing littoral drift in the transport. Upper panel: Shoreline without any structures; middle panel: Effect of a s
  21 KB (3,352 words) - 17:17, 5 October 2021
• CNEXO experimental SandPit in Seine Estuary
  ...d to collect wave data and the location of two well-known and well-studied sediment deposits (Octeville deposit and Kannick deposit). A sediment study of the East part of the Seine bay was carried out in 1967 and showed
  10 KB (1,558 words) - 20:28, 28 June 2019
• Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
  ...biological/chemical phenomena that occur in the marine environment. The '''transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients and tracers in mixed nearshore wate ...ce, but also in wider regions, determined primarily by the direct physical transport in marine waters. <ref name="Lekien">Lekien F., Coulliette C., Mariano A.J.
  19 KB (2,775 words) - 16:03, 7 October 2021
• Behaviour-based models
  ...ls, except for the fact that in process-based models the hydrodynamics and transport processes are clearly integrated in the model (to the best knowledge or for ...in equilibrium, and that diffusion is the dominant process for cross-shore transport. In such a model the diffusion coefficient is adjusted until the model repr
  6 KB (828 words) - 13:50, 12 November 2021
• Parametric equilibrium models
  ...> examined beach profiles in Denmark and California and concluded that the cross-shore profile in the vertical could be expressed in the form: ...l, EM 1110-2-1100.</ref>). The sediment scale parameter can be related to sediment size or fall speed <ref name=D/> so the equation above can be used to make
  8 KB (1,195 words) - 12:36, 3 October 2021
• Blue carbon sequestration
  ...oastal habitats followed by ocean storage is relevant and may exceed local sediment burial as a long-term (>centuries) blue carbon sequestration mechanism<ref ...posed network of roots that grow down from the branches into the water and sediment. They settle where the average monthly temperature is higher than 20°C, wh
  41 KB (6,267 words) - 13:40, 21 April 2024
• Coastal mud belt
  ...hat case, a feedback mechanism can be triggered whereby deposition of fine sediment creates a condition appropriate for ongoing deposition. This mechanism is t ...tion with the bed (see [[Shoreface profile]]) also plays a role in onshore transport.
  24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024
• Tidal asymmetry and tidal inlet morphodynamics
  ...term average transport of sediment, because the dependence of the sediment transport <math>q_s</math> on the flow strength follows the approximate formula ...negative) skewness implies net upstream (downstream) tide-induced sediment transport.
  53 KB (8,417 words) - 12:56, 20 January 2024
• Stability models
  For instance, in a coastal system, <math> \alpha </math> could represent sediment grain size or wave height, and ...hanges in sediment transport thereby appearing convergences/divergences of sediment flux and morphological changes. These morphological changes may either rein
  41 KB (6,565 words) - 16:15, 4 October 2021
• Dune erosion
  ...e reinforcement of the single protecting dune row through wind-driven sand transport from the widened beach<ref>Gerdes, E., Koning, R., Kort, M. and Soomers, H. ..., will be reshaped during a severe storm surge. Offshore directed sediment transport will occur, including sand eroded from the dune.
  42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
• Submarine groundwater discharge
  ...g storm conditions, all other geophysical drivers of fluid flow across the sediment-water interface (Sawyer et al., 2013<ref>Sawyer A. H., Shi F., Kirby J. T. ...ig. 2. Example of “sand boils”, where freshwater is flowing out of the sediment.]]
  31 KB (4,626 words) - 12:46, 12 August 2021
• Measuring instruments for rivers
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. * [[bed load]] transport,
  4 KB (591 words) - 20:17, 29 June 2019
• Measuring instruments for coasts
  ...s which instruments are available to measure different aspects of sediment transport along the coast. The article also goes into location of sampling. * [[bed load]] transport,
  12 KB (1,782 words) - 11:43, 7 September 2020
• Definitions, processes and models in morphology
  ...ref>. This articles describes a wide variety of topics related to sediment transport and processes. ...transport, while the suspended particles are transported as suspended load transport. The suspended load may also include the fine [[silt]] particles brought in
  11 KB (1,603 words) - 22:20, 1 July 2020
• Principles, statistics and errors of measuring sediment transport
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ==Measuring principles for suspended load transport==
  7 KB (944 words) - 15:27, 20 August 2020
• Measuring instruments for sediment transport
  ...describes different measurement instruments available to measure sediment transport in rivers, coastal seas and estuaries. Many of these instruments are also d ...is represented as the summation of the [[bed load]] and [[suspended load]] transport.
  27 KB (3,920 words) - 22:17, 19 August 2020
• Measuring instruments for fluid velocity, pressure and wave height
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. * optical sediment concentration point [[sensor|sensors]],
  10 KB (1,442 words) - 20:14, 29 June 2019
• Land-ocean interaction in the coastal zone
  #The '''transport and changes''' in, sediments and nutrient cycles in coastal and shelf water Runoff, groundwater flows, nutrient and sediment loads are all affected by human activity and especially human-induced chang
  13 KB (1,995 words) - 17:08, 20 September 2020
• Bed form tracking
  ...ulics Laboratory</ref>. This article describes how to compute [[bed load]] transport from measured bed form profiles. ...nditions and undisturbed [[bedforms|bed form]] migration, the [[bed load]] transport rate can be computed from the bed form dimensions (Engel and Lau, 1980<ref>
  5 KB (760 words) - 17:12, 29 June 2019
• USD-49 depth-integrating sampler
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ==Determination of the suspended sediment transport==
  4 KB (650 words) - 15:19, 22 August 2020
• Collapsible-Bag depth-integrating sampler
  ...psible-Bag sampler to determine the depth-integrated [[suspended load]] of sediment. ...C.C., Abel, M.B.(1983) ''New Technology for Measuring Water and Suspended Sediment Discharge of Large Rivers''.</ref> have used a large-volume (6 litres) bag
  6 KB (946 words) - 11:28, 19 August 2020
• Pump sampling in unidirectional and oscillatory flow
  ...Estuaries and Coastal Seas]]<ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ...ation. Similar results were obtained for 220 um, 280 um, 360 um and 450 um-sediment. This systematic error can be corrected for.
  10 KB (1,576 words) - 15:33, 20 August 2020
• General principles of optical and acoustical instruments
  ...stuaries and Coastal Seas]] <ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ...ical sampling methods enable the continuous and contactless measurement of sediment concentrations, which is an important advantage compared to the mechanical
  9 KB (1,204 words) - 17:09, 26 October 2020
• Acoustic backscatter profiling sensors (ABS)
  ...stuaries and Coastal Seas]] <ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. ...and Vincent, C.E..''An acoustic backscatter instrument to measure near-bed sediment processes''. http://www.aquatecgroup.com.</ref> Hereafter, a summary of th
  22 KB (3,217 words) - 11:14, 9 September 2020
• Optical Laser diffraction instruments (LISST)
  ...[oceanographic instruments|instruments]] to measure the [[suspended load]] transport. ...grawal, Y.C. and Pottsmith, H.C. 2002. ''Laser Diffraction Method: two new sediment sensors''. Sequoia Inc., USA [http://www.sequoiasci.com].</ref>). Diffracti
  9 KB (1,258 words) - 21:00, 29 June 2019
• Seawalls and revetments
  ...expected scour depths can be made <ref>Steetzel, H.J. (1993). Cross-shore Transport during Storm Surges. Ph.D. Thesis Delft University of Technology.</ref>. ...ere storm surge, a rather dangerous situation will occur. Large volumes of sediment from the mainland are able to disappear through the gap and will flow along
  13 KB (2,089 words) - 20:07, 18 September 2023
• Mangroves
  ...posed network of roots that grow down from the branches into the water and sediment. They settle where there is little [[waves|wave action]] and where muddy [[ ...action]] and [[tidal current]]s, the range of the [[tide]], the type of [[sediment]] and the chemistry of the seawater. The global distribution of mangroves i
  42 KB (6,310 words) - 17:09, 21 April 2024
• Typical examples of structural erosion
  ...ith two long breakwaters along a sandy coast with a net longshore sediment transport in a given direction (e.g. in m3/year), induces two typical morphological f ===Longshore sediment transport===
  8 KB (1,293 words) - 20:50, 31 March 2021
• Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal
  ...mainly wave induced. The dominant direction is from west to east. Aeolian transport is negligible. :*beach narrowing due to the updrift interception of littoral sand transport at Quarteira, Vilamoura Marina and other defence structures;
  37 KB (5,937 words) - 18:06, 18 January 2022
• Application and use of underwater video
  ...eology; 42:1-4, pp. 233-258</ref>), [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sediment sediment] studies ...., Greenwood B. (1991); Frequency dependent cross-shore suspended sediment transport. 2. A barred shoreface; Marine Geology; 106, pp. 25-51 </ref>), [http://en.
  14 KB (2,095 words) - 13:21, 7 December 2023
• Bottle and trap samplers
  ...stuaries and Coastal Seas]] <ref>Rijn, L. C. van (1986). ''Manual sediment transport measurements''. Delft, The Netherlands: Delft Hydraulics Laboratory</ref>. in which: G= dry mass of sediment (mg), V = volume of water sample (l).
  13 KB (1,984 words) - 12:21, 12 August 2020
• Beach nourishment
  ...e beach material will not strongly disturb the existing longshore sediment transport and thus will not change the occurring losses. Therefore the erosion will n ...ransport processes is discussed in the article [[Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes]].
  9 KB (1,432 words) - 21:41, 21 November 2023
• Impact of tourism in coastal areas: Need of sustainable tourism strategy
  ...] in many parts of the world, through people touching reefs, stirring up [[sediment]], and dropping anchors. ...engers can significantly degrade [[coral reefs]] through the build-up of [[sediment]]. Furthermore, sand mining at the beaches leads to [[coastal erosion]]. In
  26 KB (3,689 words) - 17:28, 5 May 2023
• Dynamics and structure of the water and matter ex-change between the Wadden Sea and the German Bight
  ...water bodies including the dissolved and suspended matter and the bedload transport of the sand over a full cross-section of a tidal inlet connecting the Wadde In wintertime, when suspended sediment dynamics is expected to be highest, the stations must be removed because on
  13 KB (2,006 words) - 14:59, 2 July 2023
• Nearshore sandbars
  ...Losada, I.J. 2022. Analysis of the mechanics of breaker bar generation in cross-shore beach profiles based on numerical modelling. Coastal Engineering 177, 10417 ...by other processes that limit bar growth, such as gravity-induced sediment transport down the bar slopes<ref name=ZA>van der Zanden, J., van der A, D.A., Hurthe
  24 KB (3,613 words) - 17:34, 14 November 2023
• Deteriorated groynes
  ...eteriorating groynes contributes to the reduction of erosion rates of fill sediment. ...earby cliffs. This formation was naturally nourished by longshore sediment transport, running predominantly from west to east. In past centuries this system was
  25 KB (3,878 words) - 17:18, 3 September 2020
• Shore protection vegetation
  ...ms and high water levels. This sand also nourishes further aeolian inshore transport and increases the sand volume of the dunes behind. ..., J., Walker, I., Bauer, B., Delgado-Fernandez, I. and Smyth, T.A.G. 2018. Sediment budget controls on foredune height: a comparison of simulation model result
  76 KB (10,699 words) - 12:24, 15 November 2023
• Gravel Beaches
  ...astal defence schemes, considerable use is made of coarse-grained (gravel) sediment to replenish [[Coast erosion|eroding beaches]], often in conjunction with s ...made in process based numerical modelling systems for long and cross shore transport.
  40 KB (6,109 words) - 17:19, 24 February 2023
• Coastal observation systems
  ...e monitoring BSH-MARNET stations and catches the East-West and South-North cross-shore gradients in the German Bight. Additional near-transects are carried out us ...he onderwatertechnieken| echosounders]]) important information on sediment transport and [[coastal morphology]] '''(see link below)'''.
  39 KB (5,933 words) - 22:32, 25 October 2020
• Sand by-pass systems
  ...ouths and navigation channels worldwide. It is described as the artificial transport of littoral drift across tidal entrances to help prevent accretion, on the ...coasts. Fig. 1 reflects just a sandy coast with a net alongshore sediment transport.<p>
  15 KB (2,517 words) - 18:13, 18 January 2022
• Modelling coastal hydrodynamics
  ...mic modelling forms the basis for many modelling studies, whether sediment transport, morphology, [[waves]], water quality and/or ecological changes are being i :# Sediment transport and corresponding changes in morphology, with a characteristic time scale o
  99 KB (15,083 words) - 13:37, 7 November 2021
• Ecological restoration of estuaries in North Western Europe
  ...between the biotopes. These interrelations depend upon hydrology, sediment transport, [[Nutrient conversion in the marine environment|nutrient transfer]] and bi ...ersification of the system and the ecological improvement of the water and sediment quality very likely will increase the number of species <ref name="Ducker 2
  36 KB (5,283 words) - 14:03, 2 March 2023
• Scaling Issues in Hydraulic Modelling
  ...ill further developments, namely the physics and modelling of [[sediment]] transport, the wave-structure interaction analysis and loads determination, [[erosion ...available instrument to bring about improvements with respect to sediment transport, and [[erosion]].
  54 KB (8,152 words) - 11:15, 7 September 2020
• Artificial Neural Networks and coastal applications
  ...><ref>Yoon, H-D., Cox, D.T. and Kim, M. 2013. Prediction of time-dependent sediment suspension in the surf zone using artificial neural network. Coastal Engine ...littoral drift<ref>Bailard, J. A. 1981. An energetics total load sediment transport model for a plane sloping beach. J. Geophys. Res., 86: 10938–10954</ref>,
  29 KB (4,514 words) - 16:02, 21 September 2023
• Estuarine circulation
  ...om flow accelerated in up-estuary direction. During ebb, vertical momentum transport reduces turbulent momentum dissipation by reducing the vertical shear of th ...owever, estuarine circulation is not the only cause of up-estuary sediment transport. Many field and model investigations show that tidal asymmetry due to non-l
  39 KB (5,906 words) - 23:22, 24 May 2023
• Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
  * pages on the website of Leo van Rijn https://www.leovanrijn-sediment.com/ ...ld be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
  20 KB (2,422 words) - 12:26, 20 February 2024
• Morphology of estuaries
  ...s that shape estuarine morphology through local erosion, sedimentation and transport processes are themselves strongly influenced by estuarine morphology. This ...tuarine facies models: conceptual basis and stratigraphic implications. J. Sediment. Petrol. 62: 1130–1146</ref>) as:
  87 KB (13,505 words) - 12:18, 20 January 2024
• Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries
  ...led “bedforms”), channel bends, turbulence, density currents, sediment transport, friction at the free surface, waves, irregularities of the cross section, ...cient can be estimated by <ref> Ackers, P. and White, W.R. (1973) Sediment Transport: New Approach and Analysis. Journal of the Hydraulics Division, ASCE, No. H
  11 KB (1,741 words) - 18:18, 4 February 2023
• Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment
  ...riety of the governing phenomena. Indeed, it is very difficult to estimate sediment fluxes on beaches due to the combination of steady flows (currents) and osc ...> compared and fitted their formula to experimental flume data, simulating cross-shore dynamics (current opposite to incoming waves) for sheet-flow conditions esp
  36 KB (5,680 words) - 17:54, 31 August 2022
• Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries
  Recently developed theories, describing tidal dynamics, salinity intrusion, sediment mechanics and their associated links with morphology have been shown to be ..., surges, waves, currents, temperature, salinity, turbidity, ice, sediment transport, and a range of biological and chemical components. Tides, surges and waves
  50 KB (7,345 words) - 17:09, 2 July 2020
• Wave-dominated river deltas
  ...r delta |definition= A river delta is an accumulation of fluvially derived sediment that forms around the river mouth, where river water slows down as it enter ...delta, the delta morphology, depends on many factors such as waves, tides, sediment size and volumes, but also the space in which the delta grows <ref>Coleman,
  13 KB (1,953 words) - 21:33, 3 July 2020
• Beach Cusps
  ..., tend to be much smoother in elevation and are characterized by a gentler cross-shore slope. Beach cusps appear under a wide variety of hydrodynamic conditions ( ==Flow and sediment characteristics==
  11 KB (1,666 words) - 16:48, 7 October 2022
• Bedforms and roughness
  * lower transport regime with flat bed, ribbons and ridges, ripples, dunes and bars, * upper transport regime with flat mobile bed and sand waves (anti-dunes).
  26 KB (4,021 words) - 12:32, 13 March 2023
• Sand transport
  ...t-related transport), by the oscillatory water motion itself (wave-related transport) as caused by the deformation of short waves under the influence of decreas ...es in conditions with an alluvial river bed. A typical feature of sediment transport along an alluvial bed is the generation of bed forms from small-scale rippl
  42 KB (6,585 words) - 21:05, 30 December 2023
• Sediment deposition and erosion processes
  ...estuarine sediment deposition and erosion. The role of biota in estuarine sediment deposition and erosion is discussed in the article [[Biogeomorphology of co ...terms of commonly used mass flux functions. Simple analytical methods for sediment load are referenced, and for cohesive flocs the significance of fluid mud i
  63 KB (9,960 words) - 23:03, 28 April 2024
• Estuarine morphological modelling
  ...and sediment transport from rivers, as well as by saline marine water and sediment via tides, storm surges, waves and wind. There is a strong mutual interacti ...are influenced by the motion of fresh and saline waters. The transport of sediment, often a mix of sand and fines, involves a variety of mechanisms.
  36 KB (5,524 words) - 21:38, 28 June 2019
• Shelf sea exchange with the ocean
  ..., and hence processes of ocean-shelf transport and exchange. For example, transport from the open ocean across the shelf edge is estimated to bring most of the ...ge. Progress in Oceanography 35(4), 353-431.</ref>, Appendix A). That is, transport across depth contours is enabled by (i) time scales of a day or less, or (i
  34 KB (5,118 words) - 12:02, 29 June 2020
• Infragravity waves
  ...ves is due to the fact that the larger short waves in the short-wave group transport more momentum than the smaller waves, leading to a water level lowering und ...e=LH>Longuet-Higgins, M.S., Stewart, R.W., 1962. Radiation stress and mass transport in gravity waves, with application to ’surf beats’. Journal of Fluid Me
  25 KB (3,848 words) - 16:22, 25 February 2023
• Sand ridges in shelf seas
  ...f shelf seas is generally not flat. In regions where it consists of mobile sediment the seabed is covered with different kinds of structures: ripples, megaripp ...flattened as downslope sand transport at the ridge dominates over upslope transport. This raises questions such as: By which mechanism are these ridges genera
  22 KB (3,464 words) - 15:25, 24 April 2021
• Siltation in harbors and fairways
  ...when the sediment transport capacity is locally exceeded by the supply of sediment. ...ich are generally carried by the flow in suspension (see [[Dynamics of mud transport]]).
  33 KB (5,130 words) - 15:57, 27 February 2023
• Rhythmic shoreline features
  ...e (2015), Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth-averaged sediment concentration, Rev. Geophys., 53, doi:10.1002/2014RG000457</ref> and refere ...es called ''rip channel systems''. Note, however, that rip channels, i.e., cross-shore-oriented channels in the surf zone where rip currents concentrate, can also
  41 KB (6,530 words) - 10:19, 3 July 2022
• Swash zone dynamics
  ...After <ref> Elfrink, B. and T. Baldock (2002). Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives. Coastal Engineering 45: 149-1 ...y of sand, gravel, rock or coral barriers. This influences the exchange of sediment between the land and ocean, which ultimately forms the coastline.
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Shallow-water wave theory
  ...longshore currents, a set-up of the mean water level and vigorous sediment transport of beach material. Some of these processes are evident in Figure 2. ...he 'short' waves and have been shown to have a major influence on sediment transport and beach morphology producing long and cross shore variations in the surf
  86 KB (13,927 words) - 12:36, 3 May 2023
• Active coastal zone
  ...ctive coastal profile'') is the beach zone over which sand is exchanged in cross-shore direction by natural processes. The seaward limit corresponds to the [[Clos ...radients in [[littoral drift]], by barrier overwash or by landward aeolian transport, the volume of sand in the active coastal zone is constant in time. Howeve
  3 KB (447 words) - 17:07, 26 August 2022
• Littoral drift and shoreline modelling
  [[Littoral drift]], the wave-driven longshore transport of sediment, plays a major role in shoreline dynamics. Human-induced modification of li ...lis, L.M., Schubert, J.E. and Sanders, B.F. 2024. Characterizing longshore transport potential and divergence of drift to inform beach loss trends. Coastal Engi
  26 KB (4,053 words) - 13:58, 30 April 2024
• Characteristics of sedimentary shores
  ...ological characteristics are related to geological setting, sediment type, sediment supply, wave climate and tidal regime. Wave climate and tidal regime bear s ...breaker line, <math>H_s</math> and the downward settling distance of beach sediment during the peak wave period <math>T_p</math>,
  24 KB (3,854 words) - 16:00, 30 June 2020
• Shoreface profile
  ...ends seaward to where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average minor compared to other influences. A similar definition is: |definition= The shoreface profile, often called beach profile, is the cross-shore coastal depth profile of the shoreface. }}
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
• Coastal and marine sediments
  {{Definition|title=Marine sediment |definition= Natural unconsolidated granular material with sediment density greater than water.}}
  56 KB (8,246 words) - 17:33, 30 December 2023
• Hard coastal protection structures
  ...diate or adjacent coastlines. Sometimes there can be shoreward pathways of sediment from offshore sources. In some cases, these processes may no longer be acti ...ong-term conditions; Difficult to balance impact on both shingle and sand transport.
  15 KB (2,145 words) - 16:46, 27 September 2021
• Dealing with coastal erosion
  ...ction measure is properly designed, the gradient in the longshore sediment transport along the part of the coast to be protected, should vanish: <math>dS(x)/dx= ...th>x</math> implies structural erosion without intervention: the amount of sediment leaving the section A – B is greater than the amount entering (littoral d
  18 KB (2,830 words) - 16:57, 26 August 2022
• European Action Plan Theme Pollution prevention, detection and mitigation
  ...knowledge including chemical processes of pollutants synthesis, hydraulic transport of compounds, biological impacts on human health or ecosystems, socio-econo ...iques, and analytical models to help predict the fate of these pollutants. Transport and dissemination models are implemented by universities, but only seldom u
  27 KB (4,006 words) - 18:23, 23 February 2019
• Nature-based shore protection
  ...appearance, having monopodial growth of long straplike leaves supported by sediment stabilising roots and rhizomes and can exist in fully marine through to fre ...ies can be suffocated or buried due to the movement of large quantities of sediment. The coastal area should not be subjected to anthropogenic pressure affecti
  69 KB (10,397 words) - 17:04, 17 April 2024
• Shoreface nourishment
  ...ively spread over the [[active coastal zone]] by longshore and cross-shore transport processes and so contributes to raising the seafloor and mitigating the eff ..."lee effect" of the nourishments – the convergence of longshore sediment transport at the nourishment site due to local reduction of wave heights, with downdr
  9 KB (1,419 words) - 18:14, 17 January 2022
• Tidal bore dynamics
  ...2015)<ref>Keevil, C. E., Chanson, H. and Reungoat, D. 2015. Fluid flow and sediment entrainment in the Garonne River bore and tidal bore collision. Earth Surfa ...garis, G. 2021. Field observations of turbulence, sediment suspension, and transport under breaking tidal bores. Marine Geology 437, 106498</ref> of the tidal b
  46 KB (6,918 words) - 13:06, 20 January 2024
• Classification of sandy coastlines
  ...The interaction between longshore processes and the given coastal geology, sediment supply, etc., results in the formation of different types of coastlines and ...ar wave approach'', angle of incidence 1^o - 10^o, net transport small to moderate
  17 KB (2,622 words) - 20:46, 31 March 2021
• Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments
  ...breakwater is shown in Fig. 1. The basic design consists essentially of a sediment core, a geotextile, one or more granular underlayers, an armor layer of roc ...textile prevents erosion of the core and seabed by blocking the passage of sediment particles; however, it allows the passage of porewater. Care must be taken
  53 KB (8,270 words) - 18:27, 26 March 2024
• Sand spit
  * wave-induced cross-shore sediment transport; swell waves dominate and longshore transport rates are high<ref>Ranasinghe, R. and Pattiaratchi, C. 2003. The seasonal c
  11 KB (1,784 words) - 16:25, 9 May 2023
• Embayed beaches
  ...w-energy swell). The presence of a beach implies that net offshore loss of sediment is limited (otherwise no beach would be present). Hence, the budget of the ...r with the breaker-induced wave energy dissipation, determine the sediment transport gradients along the beach (see [[Shallow-water wave theory]] and [[Littoral
  13 KB (2,008 words) - 16:12, 3 October 2021
• Shoreline retreat and recovery
  ...ts and submarine canyons and human interventions that alter longshore sand transport<ref>Hapke, C.J., Kratzmann, M.G. and Himmelstoss, E.A. 2013. Geomorphic and During winter, storm-related high water levels and energetic breaking waves transport sand from the backshore to the foreshore and even further offshore to the [
  29 KB (4,526 words) - 12:45, 24 April 2024
• Tidal channel meandering and marsh erosion
  ...d: vertical cross-channel pattern of residual flow (blue) and net sediment transport (yellow). Red = erosion; Green=accretion.]] ...annel bend configuration thus produces feedback to fluid flow and sediment transport that enlarges the channel meander. When a meander becomes too large, eventu
  9 KB (1,309 words) - 23:14, 20 February 2023
• River tides
  ...–52</ref><ref>Burchard, H., Schuttelaars, H. M. and Ralston, D. K. 2018. Sediment trapping in estuaries. Annual Review of Marine Science 10: 371–395</ref>. ...11. River Elbe River Engineering and Sediment Management Concept Review of sediment management strategy in the context of other European estuaries from a morph
  25 KB (4,110 words) - 15:21, 20 April 2024
• Tidal rivers
  ...rt of the system<ref name=DC/>. Insect larvae make abundant burrows in the sediment bed, but the degree of bioturbation is less than in the marine environment< ...or. American Scientist 66: 592–597</ref>. Most organisms live within the sediment rather than on the surface, employing various feeding strategies due to the
  14 KB (2,146 words) - 12:57, 23 June 2023
• Beachrock
  ...and genetic implications of Holocene beachrocks from northeastern Brazil. Sediment. Geol. 192: 207–230</ref>. Most datings of beachrock indicate ages of tho ...hard artificial structures by modifying longshore and cross-shore sediment transport, see e.g. [[Detached breakwaters]], [[Groynes]].
  5 KB (698 words) - 21:23, 6 April 2024