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• Greek case studies: Sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone of Gouves (Heraklio, Crete) in relation to erosion (unpublished data 2006)
  ...of a ‘Meltemi’ event, on the resuspension and transportation of the [[nearshore]] sediments. The ‘Meltemi’ or etesians (in Greek means northern wins of ...of undertow involves the elevation of the main water level within the surf zone. This produces a seaward-directed pressure gradient of water, which on aver
  7 KB (1,108 words) - 10:15, 2 July 2020

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• Coastal morphology
  :[[Nearshore sandbars]] :[[Active coastal zone]]
  1 KB (169 words) - 11:23, 20 February 2024
• Groynes
  ...part of the sediment moving (mainly in a longshore direction) in the surf zone. ...o depends on sea water level, wave climate and sediment supply in the surf zone.
  8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
• Definitions of coastal terms
  ===Active coastal zone=== ...[[#Dunes|dune]] is part of the active coastal zone. See: [[Active coastal zone]].
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
  ...fforts suggest that suspended load is the more important within the [[surf zone]], particularly under high energy conditions, there is still no consensus o ...one of the main reasons being that the velocity field in the [[nearshore]] zone is oscillatory and that sediment resuspension (and transport) responds non-
  29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
• Natural causes of coastal erosion
  ...zone is a one-dimensional sediment cell; the sediment volume in the active zone will be constant in time. Shoreline erosion and accretion in response to fl ...t can be due to longshore varying wave conditions, coastline curvature, or nearshore bathymetric features. An example of this kind of coastal condition is the W
  14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...r example), this can take a very long time. However, if the active coastal zone consists exclusively of loose sediments, a state of dynamic equilibrium can *The extent of the structure relative to the width of the [[surf zone]]
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Shore nourishment
  ...on the beach for beach nourishment, over the bow pumping (rainbowing) for nearshore nourishment and split barge for nourishment in the outer part of the upper ...far offshore to minimize any influence on the hydrodynamics of the coastal zone. Placement in onshore nourishment sites makes use of pipes; for offshore si
  12 KB (1,875 words) - 15:32, 23 July 2023
• Beach drainage
  ...in the beach. The drain runs parallel to the shoreline in the wave up-rush zone. The beach drain increases the level of the beach near the installation lin ...moves sand onshore while the backwash transports it offshore, see [[Swash zone dynamics]].
  11 KB (1,646 words) - 10:15, 1 May 2023
• Waves
  ...f [[nearshore]] currents and secondary wave phenomena. Seaward of the surf zone, any wave energy losses primarily occur through whitecapping and friction a <!--Threats to the coastal zone, Section 6 links here -->
  20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
• Wave transformation
  ...hould consult [[Shallow-water wave theory]], [[Breaker index]] and [[Swash zone dynamics]]. ...ters. Diffraction is the process by which the waves propagate into the lee zone behind the structures by energy transmittance laterally along the wave cres
  6 KB (1,006 words) - 13:44, 22 February 2024
• Currents
  ==Current in the Nearshore Zone== ...rincipally driven by the breaking waves. For purposes of simplification, [[nearshore]] mean currents are usually separated into their cross-shore and longshore
  14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
• Bar
  :[[Nearshore sandbars]]
  2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
• Beach berm
  ...teep slope, coarse sediment, subject to low-energy swell waves, intertidal zone almost absent). * Berms can also form on the higher intertidal zone of a [[#Tidal flat|tidal flat]]; these berms are generally called "swash ba
  1 KB (165 words) - 21:56, 6 April 2021
• Closure depth
  ...1998)<ref name=K98/> is general in that it applies to the open coast where nearshore [[waves]] and wave induced [[currents]] are the dominant sediment-transport ...humb|450px|caption |Fig. 1. Schematic representation of the active coastal zone for a dune coast and cross-shore sand redistribution for alternating storm
  23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
• Rip current
  ...= Rip currents are wave-generated currents that depart from the nearshore zone in offshore direction. }} ...c view of a rip cell. Beach: yellow, sea: blue; shallow water: light blue; nearshore bars: hatched; flow pattern: red arrows. ]]
  8 KB (1,278 words) - 10:16, 3 July 2022
• Shoreface
  |definition= The shoreface is the '''nearshore zone''' of the inner continental shelf that is bounded landward by the low-water ...is dissipated by wave overturning and breaking and the lower shoreface the zone where waves shoal. The lower part of the shoreface extends to the so-called
  1 KB (218 words) - 20:12, 30 March 2021
• Shoreline management
  ...ction to modern shoreline management, in the context of Integrated Coastal Zone Management. It describes general principles for drafting Shoreline Manageme In many parts of the world, the idea of "Integrated Coastal Zone Management" (ICZM) is proposed as being a more satisfactory way forward. Th
  38 KB (5,697 words) - 22:31, 2 July 2022
• FUTURECOAST project, UK
  It is also important to understand how the coastal zone functions on a wider scale both in time and space. Within Coastal Engineeri ...he pattern of erosion, transport and deposition both across the intertidal zone and at the shoreline. In many estuaries, changes in the position of these c
  20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
• Remote sensing
  ...ysis techniques as described in [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]] and many other articles in the Coastal Wiki. ...e elevation (satellite altimetry): [[Space geodetic techniques for coastal zone monitoring]]
  11 KB (1,586 words) - 18:47, 19 February 2024
• Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
  ...'''transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients and tracers in mixed nearshore water''' can have direct and indirect consequences for the marine [[ecosyst ...ble organisms to more indirect processes of impact and endangerment of the nearshore [[ecosystem]]s. Such influences are felt not only in proximity to the sourc
  19 KB (2,775 words) - 16:03, 7 October 2021
• Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions
  ...l Orthogonal Functions. EOF methods have been used with success to analyze nearshore beach topography, as will be described below. However, the technique may no ...t al. (2003) applied the same technique of Wijnberg and Terwindt (1995) to nearshore topography in a Dutch and a German coastal area. For the Dutch coastal site
  25 KB (4,098 words) - 15:59, 20 November 2021
• Argus video monitoring system
  Until only a few years ago, all information on nearshore morphodynamics had to be gathered from comprehensive field experience. This ...s, cost and data benefits soon drove the lab to an all-optical approach to nearshore sampling. This was boosted enormously by the early discovery that ten-minut
  13 KB (1,959 words) - 15:21, 6 April 2021
• Coastal mud belt
  Accumulation of fine sediments in the nearshore zone occurs when a flow pattern exists on the inner continental shelf that prohi ...in the shoreface zone is shown in Fig. 2, from observations in the coastal zone off Kerala (India)<ref name=S17>Samiksha, S.V., Vethamony, P., Rogers, W.E.
  24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024
• Hydrodynamic numerical models of wave-structure interaction
  ...simulating the interaction between water waves and breakwaters in the surf zone. ...ant hydraulic processes involved in wave-structure interaction in the surf zone encompass wave reflection, wave dissipation, wave transmission resulting fr
  21 KB (3,036 words) - 16:03, 25 February 2023
• Stability models
  ...s (the latter also known as ridge and runnel systems) probably due to surf zone morphodynamical instabilities (Atlantic coast, Aquitaine, France. From Goog ...s. Their alongshore spacing is of the order of one to a few times the surf zone width, i.e., typically from tens to hundreds of meters, up to maybe one-two
  41 KB (6,565 words) - 16:15, 4 October 2021
• Argus image types and conventions
  ..., B.G. (2001) Effect of hydrodynamics and bathymetry on video estimates of nearshore sandbar position. Journal of Geophysical Research, 106(C8): 16969-16980, 20 ...atches that appear on the water surface after the waves have broken on the nearshore bar. These foam patches move slowly alongshore carried by the longshore cur
  7 KB (1,069 words) - 21:30, 10 August 2020
• Argus standard image processing
  ...n T.C., Stanley J.and Plant N.G. (1997). Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies. ''IEEE Journal of oceanic engineering'', Vol. ...e time averaged Argus images. This results in a plan view of the nearshore zone (see Figure 2).
  6 KB (969 words) - 21:29, 10 August 2020
• Use of Lidar for coastal habitat mapping
  ==Advantages of Lidar in the coastal zone== ...r more for hydrographic and topographic modes, respectively. For the tidal zone, this is crucial as usually only short tide windows are available for opera
  15 KB (2,393 words) - 22:55, 9 October 2023
• Argus applications
  ...h (Aarninkhof et al, 2003<ref name="aarn2003">Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (2003).'' Nearshore bathymetry derived from video imagery''. PhD. Thesis, Delft University of T ==Measurement of surf zone bathymetry ==
  10 KB (1,502 words) - 21:31, 10 August 2020
• Dune erosion
  *nearshore morphology: nearshore slope, rip-channel embayments, [[nearshore sandbars]], subtidal morphology; # eroded dune sediment is deposited within a zone delimited by a storm closure depth <math>y_{max}</math>;
  42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
• Greek case studies
  *[[Greek case studies: Long term geomorphological changes in the coastal zone of the Thermaikos Gulf, Salonika Region, North Greece]] *[[Greek case studies: Sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone of Gouves (Heraklio, Crete) in relation to erosion (unpublished data 2006)]
  793 bytes (114 words) - 18:15, 16 February 2024
• Submarine groundwater discharge
  ...rocesses and the importance of submarine groundwater discharge for coastal zone management. SGD is the discharge of groundwater going directly into the se ..., et al. (2006) Quantifying submarine groundwater discharge in the coastal zone via multiple methods. ''Sciences of the Total Environment'', '''367''' 498-
  31 KB (4,626 words) - 12:46, 12 August 2021
• Measuring instruments for coasts
  ...the bed on a sandy beach at the Pacific Ocean coast of Japan (shallow surf zone). ...coastal environments are: mechanical traps (streamer traps in shallow surf zone <1 m), pump samplers, optical samplers and acoustic samplers (see also [[pu
  12 KB (1,782 words) - 11:43, 7 September 2020
• Instruments for bed level detection
  ...ous 3-wheel vehicle, which can be used for bed level soundings in the surf zone in depths up to -6 m with waves up to 2 m (see Figure 1). It is equipped wi * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  7 KB (1,105 words) - 13:16, 7 December 2023
• Coastal meteorology
  ...Improved understanding of the processes in the meteorology of the coastal zone is based on detailed knowledge of marine and terrestrial boundary layers an ...ients, and the formation and transport of fog and low cloud in the coastal zone.
  14 KB (2,127 words) - 15:18, 7 April 2022
• Use of aerial photographs for shoreline position and mapping applications
  ...is an example of [[remote sensing]] and can be used to monitor the coastal zone. ...om that time provide excellent, high resolution information on the coastal zone. Historical aerial photographs make it possible to analyse past phenomena a
  10 KB (1,437 words) - 13:18, 7 December 2023
• Acoustic backscatter profiling sensors (ABS)
  ...n, if the ABS-system (highly sensitive to air bubbles) is used in the surf zone with breaking waves (Huck et al., 1999<ref>Huck, M.P. et al., 1999. Vertica ...d Greenwood, B., 1994. Measurement of suspended sand concentrations in the nearshore. ''Continental Shelf Research'', Vol. 14, No. 23, p. 159-174.
  22 KB (3,217 words) - 11:14, 9 September 2020
• Greek case studies: Sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone of Gouves (Heraklio, Crete) in relation to erosion (unpublished data 2006)
  ...of a ‘Meltemi’ event, on the resuspension and transportation of the [[nearshore]] sediments. The ‘Meltemi’ or etesians (in Greek means northern wins of ...of undertow involves the elevation of the main water level within the surf zone. This produces a seaward-directed pressure gradient of water, which on aver
  7 KB (1,108 words) - 10:15, 2 July 2020
• Wavelet analysis of coastal processes
  In a later investigation, Li et al. (2005)<ref name=L></ref> analyzed nearshore beach profile variability at the Duck study site, North Carolina (USA). The ...(2005) <ref> Różyński, G., Reeve, D. 2005. Multi-resolution analysis of nearshore hydrodynamics using discrete wavelet transforms. Coastal Engineering 52: 77
  20 KB (3,180 words) - 15:59, 6 October 2023
• Bottle and trap samplers
  ...was trapped during the growth and decay phase of the waves (inside breaker zone). ...</ref> used portable streamer traps to measure transport rates in the surf zone, see Figure 5. The traps consist of long rectangular bags of polyester siev
  13 KB (1,984 words) - 12:21, 12 August 2020
• Data processing and output of Lidar
  ...nthos mapping, eProceedings of Earsel's GIS "Remote Sensing of the Coastal Zone", Ghent, 2003 June 5-7, 105 117: pp. 13.</ref>) shows than on a bare, smoot * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  12 KB (1,887 words) - 13:22, 7 December 2023
• Plunging wave in slow motion
  ...dence that the beach is behaving as a reflective one. If present at all, [[nearshore sandbars]] do not appear to affect the breaking process. Indeed, the closen ...aken on a windless day and no extensive surf zone influences the nearshore zone seaward of the plunge point;
  5 KB (851 words) - 21:54, 29 February 2024
• Optical measurements in coastal waters
  ...airborne sensors is a powerful, operational tool for monitoring [[coastal zone]]s. This technology can provide accurate, large-scale, synoptic environment * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  16 KB (2,211 words) - 21:29, 24 February 2024
• Pollution prevention, detection and mitigation in European coastal waters
  In many cases, coastal water pollution is caused by the discharge in the nearshore or estuaries of nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates which are used by ...and [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]].
  26 KB (3,940 words) - 16:24, 20 February 2024
• Continental shelf habitat
  ...slope and rise are part of the continental margin. This is the transition zone between the continental and the oceanic crust. ...ves are the dominant process affecting the seabed in the shallow nearshore zone of the continental shelf where depths are less than 50 m (generally even le
  11 KB (1,602 words) - 18:32, 22 February 2021
• Tidal flats from space
  ...sh and as a feeding ground for many bird species. They form a transitional zone between land and ocean. :[[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  14 KB (2,127 words) - 11:32, 17 February 2024
• Seagrass recovery and restoration in the Wadden Sea
  ...ha) of seagrass beds (coverage >60% and coverage 20-60%) in the intertidal zone of the Northfrisian Wadden Sea (Schleswig-Holstein) as estimated from aeria ...rence of seagrass (''Zostera noltii'' and ''Z. marina'') in the intertidal zone of the Northfrisian Wadden Sea in August/September 1994-2006. Intensity of
  14 KB (2,227 words) - 21:36, 24 November 2020
• Large scale mapping of intertidal areas
  ...les, etc.), Water Cover (in %), Redox Condition (thickness of the oxidised zone), Macroalgae (Ulva, Fucus, etc., presence and coverage in %), Macrophytes ( ...small remainder of these habitat-forming macrophytes existed in a southern nearshore area (Fig. 3).
  10 KB (1,456 words) - 18:47, 28 April 2009
• Tsunami
  ...<math>\rho</math> the water density. When the tsunami reaches the coastal zone, the water depth decreases sharply as does the propagation speed <math> c < ..., wind waves lose a great deal of their energy due to breaking in the surf zone before they reach the shore. This explains why tsunamis have a far more dev
  28 KB (4,414 words) - 12:41, 25 April 2024
• Impact of tourism in coastal areas: Need of sustainable tourism strategy
  * Coastal zone urbanization See also [[Threats to the coastal zone]].
  26 KB (3,689 words) - 17:28, 5 May 2023

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