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- 8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
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- ...ed breakwater is a coast-parallel structure located inside or close to the surf-zone. As this subject is too extensive for this page, see [[Detached breakwaters The mining of sand and gravel along beaches and in the surf-zone will cause erosion by depleting the shore of its sediment resources. In con29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
- ...ed breakwater is a coast-parallel structure located inside or close to the surf-zone. Several types of breakwaters exist, from which detached breakwaters are th *<math>x_{80}</math> Surf-zone width, approximately 80 % of the littoral transport takes place landwards o31 KB (4,715 words) - 23:55, 30 March 2024
- 20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
- ...t of the wave surges up on the foreshore in which case there is hardly any surf-zone. This form of breaking takes place when relatively long waves (swell) meet ...heltered areas near port entrances, will generate local circulation in the surf-zone towards the sheltered area.6 KB (1,006 words) - 13:44, 22 February 2024
- 24 KB (3,898 words) - 13:12, 23 November 2023
- Cross-currents occur especially in the surf-zone. Three contributions balance each other: ...travel over an area. This phenomenon is called the mass transport. In the surf-zone the mass transport is directed towards the coast.14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
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- *<math>x_{80}</math> surf-zone width, approximately 80 % of the littoral transport takes place landwards o *<math>x^*=x/x_{80}</math> distance relative to surf-zone width.8 KB (1,250 words) - 15:00, 4 October 2021
- ...very long groynes. Groynes are normally designed to cover only part of the surf-zone. For predicting the shoreline response, it is important to know the sedimen ...drift in the coastal profile are presented in the Fig.2. The width of the surf-zone is approximately 400m.21 KB (3,352 words) - 17:17, 5 October 2021
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- ...725.</ref>). Although these applications are relevant in some aspects to surf-zone processes, the lack of dispersion in the nonlinear shallow-water equations21 KB (3,036 words) - 16:03, 25 February 2023
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- ...990) <ref name = "Sanchez">Sánchez-Arcilla, A. and Lemos, C.M. (1990). “Surf-zone Hydrodynamics”. Centro Internacional de Métodos Numéricos de Ingenierí99 KB (15,083 words) - 13:37, 7 November 2021
- ...easured in the physical model. Nevertheless, small-scale three-dimensional surf-zone physical models are more easily useful for the derivation of qualitative re ...avoidable in movable-bed models. Alternative, less intrusive apparatus for surf-zone bottom surveying should be investigated.54 KB (8,152 words) - 11:15, 7 September 2020
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- ...ociated to swash zone processes, b) ''megacusps'', which are associated to surf-zone processes and c) ''large scale shoreline features'', which are associated t41 KB (6,530 words) - 10:19, 3 July 2022
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