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• Greek case studies: Sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone of Gouves (Heraklio, Crete) in relation to erosion (unpublished data 2006)
  ...of a ‘Meltemi’ event, on the resuspension and transportation of the [[nearshore]] sediments. The ‘Meltemi’ or etesians (in Greek means northern wins of ...of undertow involves the elevation of the main water level within the surf zone. This produces a seaward-directed pressure gradient of water, which on aver
  7 KB (1,108 words) - 10:15, 2 July 2020

Page text matches

• Coastal morphology
  :[[Nearshore sandbars]] :[[Active coastal zone]]
  1 KB (169 words) - 11:23, 20 February 2024
• Groynes
  ...part of the sediment moving (mainly in a longshore direction) in the surf zone. ...o depends on sea water level, wave climate and sediment supply in the surf zone.
  8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
• Definitions of coastal terms
  ===Active coastal zone=== ...[[#Dunes|dune]] is part of the active coastal zone. See: [[Active coastal zone]].
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
  ...fforts suggest that suspended load is the more important within the [[surf zone]], particularly under high energy conditions, there is still no consensus o ...one of the main reasons being that the velocity field in the [[nearshore]] zone is oscillatory and that sediment resuspension (and transport) responds non-
  29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
• Natural causes of coastal erosion
  ...zone is a one-dimensional sediment cell; the sediment volume in the active zone will be constant in time. Shoreline erosion and accretion in response to fl ...t can be due to longshore varying wave conditions, coastline curvature, or nearshore bathymetric features. An example of this kind of coastal condition is the W
  14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...r example), this can take a very long time. However, if the active coastal zone consists exclusively of loose sediments, a state of dynamic equilibrium can *The extent of the structure relative to the width of the [[surf zone]]
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Shore nourishment
  ...on the beach for beach nourishment, over the bow pumping (rainbowing) for nearshore nourishment and split barge for nourishment in the outer part of the upper ...far offshore to minimize any influence on the hydrodynamics of the coastal zone. Placement in onshore nourishment sites makes use of pipes; for offshore si
  12 KB (1,875 words) - 15:32, 23 July 2023
• Beach drainage
  ...in the beach. The drain runs parallel to the shoreline in the wave up-rush zone. The beach drain increases the level of the beach near the installation lin ...moves sand onshore while the backwash transports it offshore, see [[Swash zone dynamics]].
  11 KB (1,646 words) - 10:15, 1 May 2023
• Waves
  ...f [[nearshore]] currents and secondary wave phenomena. Seaward of the surf zone, any wave energy losses primarily occur through whitecapping and friction a <!--Threats to the coastal zone, Section 6 links here -->
  20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
• Wave transformation
  ...hould consult [[Shallow-water wave theory]], [[Breaker index]] and [[Swash zone dynamics]]. ...ters. Diffraction is the process by which the waves propagate into the lee zone behind the structures by energy transmittance laterally along the wave cres
  6 KB (1,006 words) - 13:44, 22 February 2024
• Currents
  ==Current in the Nearshore Zone== ...rincipally driven by the breaking waves. For purposes of simplification, [[nearshore]] mean currents are usually separated into their cross-shore and longshore
  14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
• Bar
  :[[Nearshore sandbars]]
  2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
• Beach berm
  ...teep slope, coarse sediment, subject to low-energy swell waves, intertidal zone almost absent). * Berms can also form on the higher intertidal zone of a [[#Tidal flat|tidal flat]]; these berms are generally called "swash ba
  1 KB (165 words) - 21:56, 6 April 2021
• Closure depth
  ...1998)<ref name=K98/> is general in that it applies to the open coast where nearshore [[waves]] and wave induced [[currents]] are the dominant sediment-transport ...humb|450px|caption |Fig. 1. Schematic representation of the active coastal zone for a dune coast and cross-shore sand redistribution for alternating storm
  23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
• Rip current
  ...= Rip currents are wave-generated currents that depart from the nearshore zone in offshore direction. }} ...c view of a rip cell. Beach: yellow, sea: blue; shallow water: light blue; nearshore bars: hatched; flow pattern: red arrows. ]]
  8 KB (1,278 words) - 10:16, 3 July 2022
• Shoreface
  |definition= The shoreface is the '''nearshore zone''' of the inner continental shelf that is bounded landward by the low-water ...is dissipated by wave overturning and breaking and the lower shoreface the zone where waves shoal. The lower part of the shoreface extends to the so-called
  1 KB (218 words) - 20:12, 30 March 2021
• Shoreline management
  ...ction to modern shoreline management, in the context of Integrated Coastal Zone Management. It describes general principles for drafting Shoreline Manageme In many parts of the world, the idea of "Integrated Coastal Zone Management" (ICZM) is proposed as being a more satisfactory way forward. Th
  38 KB (5,697 words) - 22:31, 2 July 2022
• FUTURECOAST project, UK
  It is also important to understand how the coastal zone functions on a wider scale both in time and space. Within Coastal Engineeri ...he pattern of erosion, transport and deposition both across the intertidal zone and at the shoreline. In many estuaries, changes in the position of these c
  20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
• Remote sensing
  ...ysis techniques as described in [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]] and many other articles in the Coastal Wiki. ...e elevation (satellite altimetry): [[Space geodetic techniques for coastal zone monitoring]]
  11 KB (1,586 words) - 18:47, 19 February 2024
• Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water
  ...'''transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients and tracers in mixed nearshore water''' can have direct and indirect consequences for the marine [[ecosyst ...ble organisms to more indirect processes of impact and endangerment of the nearshore [[ecosystem]]s. Such influences are felt not only in proximity to the sourc
  19 KB (2,775 words) - 16:03, 7 October 2021
• Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions
  ...l Orthogonal Functions. EOF methods have been used with success to analyze nearshore beach topography, as will be described below. However, the technique may no ...t al. (2003) applied the same technique of Wijnberg and Terwindt (1995) to nearshore topography in a Dutch and a German coastal area. For the Dutch coastal site
  25 KB (4,098 words) - 15:59, 20 November 2021
• Argus video monitoring system
  Until only a few years ago, all information on nearshore morphodynamics had to be gathered from comprehensive field experience. This ...s, cost and data benefits soon drove the lab to an all-optical approach to nearshore sampling. This was boosted enormously by the early discovery that ten-minut
  13 KB (1,959 words) - 15:21, 6 April 2021
• Coastal mud belt
  Accumulation of fine sediments in the nearshore zone occurs when a flow pattern exists on the inner continental shelf that prohi ...in the shoreface zone is shown in Fig. 2, from observations in the coastal zone off Kerala (India)<ref name=S17>Samiksha, S.V., Vethamony, P., Rogers, W.E.
  24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024
• Hydrodynamic numerical models of wave-structure interaction
  ...simulating the interaction between water waves and breakwaters in the surf zone. ...ant hydraulic processes involved in wave-structure interaction in the surf zone encompass wave reflection, wave dissipation, wave transmission resulting fr
  21 KB (3,036 words) - 16:03, 25 February 2023
• Stability models
  ...s (the latter also known as ridge and runnel systems) probably due to surf zone morphodynamical instabilities (Atlantic coast, Aquitaine, France. From Goog ...s. Their alongshore spacing is of the order of one to a few times the surf zone width, i.e., typically from tens to hundreds of meters, up to maybe one-two
  41 KB (6,565 words) - 16:15, 4 October 2021
• Argus image types and conventions
  ..., B.G. (2001) Effect of hydrodynamics and bathymetry on video estimates of nearshore sandbar position. Journal of Geophysical Research, 106(C8): 16969-16980, 20 ...atches that appear on the water surface after the waves have broken on the nearshore bar. These foam patches move slowly alongshore carried by the longshore cur
  7 KB (1,069 words) - 21:30, 10 August 2020
• Argus standard image processing
  ...n T.C., Stanley J.and Plant N.G. (1997). Practical use of video imagery in nearshore oceanographic field studies. ''IEEE Journal of oceanic engineering'', Vol. ...e time averaged Argus images. This results in a plan view of the nearshore zone (see Figure 2).
  6 KB (969 words) - 21:29, 10 August 2020
• Use of Lidar for coastal habitat mapping
  ==Advantages of Lidar in the coastal zone== ...r more for hydrographic and topographic modes, respectively. For the tidal zone, this is crucial as usually only short tide windows are available for opera
  15 KB (2,393 words) - 22:55, 9 October 2023
• Argus applications
  ...h (Aarninkhof et al, 2003<ref name="aarn2003">Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (2003).'' Nearshore bathymetry derived from video imagery''. PhD. Thesis, Delft University of T ==Measurement of surf zone bathymetry ==
  10 KB (1,502 words) - 21:31, 10 August 2020
• Dune erosion
  *nearshore morphology: nearshore slope, rip-channel embayments, [[nearshore sandbars]], subtidal morphology; # eroded dune sediment is deposited within a zone delimited by a storm closure depth <math>y_{max}</math>;
  42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
• Greek case studies
  *[[Greek case studies: Long term geomorphological changes in the coastal zone of the Thermaikos Gulf, Salonika Region, North Greece]] *[[Greek case studies: Sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone of Gouves (Heraklio, Crete) in relation to erosion (unpublished data 2006)]
  793 bytes (114 words) - 18:15, 16 February 2024
• Submarine groundwater discharge
  ...rocesses and the importance of submarine groundwater discharge for coastal zone management. SGD is the discharge of groundwater going directly into the se ..., et al. (2006) Quantifying submarine groundwater discharge in the coastal zone via multiple methods. ''Sciences of the Total Environment'', '''367''' 498-
  31 KB (4,626 words) - 12:46, 12 August 2021
• Measuring instruments for coasts
  ...the bed on a sandy beach at the Pacific Ocean coast of Japan (shallow surf zone). ...coastal environments are: mechanical traps (streamer traps in shallow surf zone <1 m), pump samplers, optical samplers and acoustic samplers (see also [[pu
  12 KB (1,782 words) - 11:43, 7 September 2020
• Instruments for bed level detection
  ...ous 3-wheel vehicle, which can be used for bed level soundings in the surf zone in depths up to -6 m with waves up to 2 m (see Figure 1). It is equipped wi * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  7 KB (1,105 words) - 13:16, 7 December 2023
• Coastal meteorology
  ...Improved understanding of the processes in the meteorology of the coastal zone is based on detailed knowledge of marine and terrestrial boundary layers an ...ients, and the formation and transport of fog and low cloud in the coastal zone.
  14 KB (2,127 words) - 15:18, 7 April 2022
• Use of aerial photographs for shoreline position and mapping applications
  ...is an example of [[remote sensing]] and can be used to monitor the coastal zone. ...om that time provide excellent, high resolution information on the coastal zone. Historical aerial photographs make it possible to analyse past phenomena a
  10 KB (1,437 words) - 13:18, 7 December 2023
• Acoustic backscatter profiling sensors (ABS)
  ...n, if the ABS-system (highly sensitive to air bubbles) is used in the surf zone with breaking waves (Huck et al., 1999<ref>Huck, M.P. et al., 1999. Vertica ...d Greenwood, B., 1994. Measurement of suspended sand concentrations in the nearshore. ''Continental Shelf Research'', Vol. 14, No. 23, p. 159-174.
  22 KB (3,217 words) - 11:14, 9 September 2020
• Greek case studies: Sediment dynamics in the nearshore zone of Gouves (Heraklio, Crete) in relation to erosion (unpublished data 2006)
  ...of a ‘Meltemi’ event, on the resuspension and transportation of the [[nearshore]] sediments. The ‘Meltemi’ or etesians (in Greek means northern wins of ...of undertow involves the elevation of the main water level within the surf zone. This produces a seaward-directed pressure gradient of water, which on aver
  7 KB (1,108 words) - 10:15, 2 July 2020
• Wavelet analysis of coastal processes
  In a later investigation, Li et al. (2005)<ref name=L></ref> analyzed nearshore beach profile variability at the Duck study site, North Carolina (USA). The ...(2005) <ref> Różyński, G., Reeve, D. 2005. Multi-resolution analysis of nearshore hydrodynamics using discrete wavelet transforms. Coastal Engineering 52: 77
  20 KB (3,180 words) - 15:59, 6 October 2023
• Bottle and trap samplers
  ...was trapped during the growth and decay phase of the waves (inside breaker zone). ...</ref> used portable streamer traps to measure transport rates in the surf zone, see Figure 5. The traps consist of long rectangular bags of polyester siev
  13 KB (1,984 words) - 12:21, 12 August 2020
• Data processing and output of Lidar
  ...nthos mapping, eProceedings of Earsel's GIS "Remote Sensing of the Coastal Zone", Ghent, 2003 June 5-7, 105 117: pp. 13.</ref>) shows than on a bare, smoot * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  12 KB (1,887 words) - 13:22, 7 December 2023
• Plunging wave in slow motion
  ...dence that the beach is behaving as a reflective one. If present at all, [[nearshore sandbars]] do not appear to affect the breaking process. Indeed, the closen ...aken on a windless day and no extensive surf zone influences the nearshore zone seaward of the plunge point;
  5 KB (851 words) - 21:54, 29 February 2024
• Optical measurements in coastal waters
  ...airborne sensors is a powerful, operational tool for monitoring [[coastal zone]]s. This technology can provide accurate, large-scale, synoptic environment * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  16 KB (2,211 words) - 21:29, 24 February 2024
• Pollution prevention, detection and mitigation in European coastal waters
  In many cases, coastal water pollution is caused by the discharge in the nearshore or estuaries of nutrients such as nitrates and phosphates which are used by ...and [[Transport and dispersion of pollutants, nutrients, tracers in mixed nearshore water]].
  26 KB (3,940 words) - 16:24, 20 February 2024
• Continental shelf habitat
  ...slope and rise are part of the continental margin. This is the transition zone between the continental and the oceanic crust. ...ves are the dominant process affecting the seabed in the shallow nearshore zone of the continental shelf where depths are less than 50 m (generally even le
  11 KB (1,602 words) - 18:32, 22 February 2021
• Tidal flats from space
  ...sh and as a feeding ground for many bird species. They form a transitional zone between land and ocean. :[[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  14 KB (2,127 words) - 11:32, 17 February 2024
• Seagrass recovery and restoration in the Wadden Sea
  ...ha) of seagrass beds (coverage >60% and coverage 20-60%) in the intertidal zone of the Northfrisian Wadden Sea (Schleswig-Holstein) as estimated from aeria ...rence of seagrass (''Zostera noltii'' and ''Z. marina'') in the intertidal zone of the Northfrisian Wadden Sea in August/September 1994-2006. Intensity of
  14 KB (2,227 words) - 21:36, 24 November 2020
• Large scale mapping of intertidal areas
  ...les, etc.), Water Cover (in %), Redox Condition (thickness of the oxidised zone), Macroalgae (Ulva, Fucus, etc., presence and coverage in %), Macrophytes ( ...small remainder of these habitat-forming macrophytes existed in a southern nearshore area (Fig. 3).
  10 KB (1,456 words) - 18:47, 28 April 2009
• Tsunami
  ...<math>\rho</math> the water density. When the tsunami reaches the coastal zone, the water depth decreases sharply as does the propagation speed <math> c < ..., wind waves lose a great deal of their energy due to breaking in the surf zone before they reach the shore. This explains why tsunamis have a far more dev
  28 KB (4,414 words) - 12:41, 25 April 2024
• Impact of tourism in coastal areas: Need of sustainable tourism strategy
  * Coastal zone urbanization See also [[Threats to the coastal zone]].
  26 KB (3,689 words) - 17:28, 5 May 2023
• Cross-shore profile
  ...], across the [[foreshore]], and seaward underwater into the [[nearshore]] zone.<ref name="CIRIA (1996)"> CIRIA (1996). ''Beach management manual''. CIRIA :[[Active coastal zone]].
  506 bytes (62 words) - 20:10, 26 August 2020
• Nearshore
  Definition|title=Nearshore zone .... In another definition the nearshore zone extends further to the offshore zone, typically to water depths of the order of 20m.<ref name="CIRIA (1996)"> CI
  414 bytes (54 words) - 15:14, 6 October 2021
• Beach face
  |definition=Beach zone (also called "foreshore") from the low-water line to the limit of maximum w ...ars (also called beach ridges) can be present, related to onshore moving [[nearshore sandbars]]. The depressions between these intertidal bars are called [[runn
  1 KB (208 words) - 16:31, 31 March 2021
• Surf zone
  Definition|title=Surf zone or Breaker zone |definition= The surf zone (or '''breaker zone''') is the zone where waves break as a consequence of depth limitation and surf onshore as
  808 bytes (124 words) - 12:57, 12 April 2022
• Sand dune - Country Report, Denmark
  ...of dune ridges, deposited in the latter part of the nineteenth century on nearshore sand flats. Onshore winds during low water phases built coastal dunes, whic ...rom the North Sea. To the south-west, past Højen, is a widening backshore zone of hummocky dunes, mostly held by grassy vegetation but with some blowouts.
  16 KB (2,565 words) - 09:23, 30 July 2019
• Wave energy converters
  ...A good example is the integration of WECs with breakwaters in the coastal zone. This is described in the article [[Wave energy converters in coastal struc ...ve climate over 25 years<ref name="Ref 2">Benoit, M. and Lafon. F. 2004. A nearshore wave atlas along the coasts of France based on numerical modelling of the w
  62 KB (9,587 words) - 22:04, 7 May 2024
• Artificial reefs
  ...GSCs and geobags are often employed as revetments or as seaward slopes of nearshore structures. Unfortunately, no exhaustive analyses regarding element stabili ...figuration of gap separated rubble mound barriers parallel to the littoral zone. The waves that break over the reef induce an inshore increase of sea level
  41 KB (6,487 words) - 22:37, 2 July 2022
• Use of X-band and HF radar in marine hydrography
  ...ed X-band radar for establishing nearshore bathymetric maps of the coastal zone off the island of Sylt in the German Bight. They used traditional Fast Four * [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
  36 KB (5,694 words) - 16:25, 28 January 2024
• Nearshore sandbars
  ...n.jpg|thumb|left|400px|<small>Fig. 1. Wave transformation in the nearshore zone. </small>]] ...mple of the transformation and breaking of incident waves in the nearshore zone.
  24 KB (3,613 words) - 17:34, 14 November 2023
• Deteriorated groynes
  ...cate that for average storms, the significant wave height outside the surf zone (in water depth h of about 20 m) usually reaches H<small>s</small> = 2–2. Tab. 1) Distribution of nearshore flow velocities for beach without groynes
  25 KB (3,878 words) - 17:18, 3 September 2020
• Shore protection vegetation
  ...th the saline, nutrient-poor and harsh hydro-sedimentary conditions in the zone between the high-water (HW) line and the more stable backshore. These are s ...ies occurring along the shores of different continents that are adapted to nearshore conditions. The inventory (Table 1) focuses on species with a high shore pr
  76 KB (10,699 words) - 12:24, 15 November 2023
• Modelling coastal hydrodynamics
  ...e]]s, tsunamis and others (Horikawa, 1988<ref name=Hor>Horikawa, K. (1988) Nearshore dynamics and coastal processes, Univ. of Tokyo Press, Japan, pp 40-88</ref> ...urf zone is defined as the region between the seaward limit of the breaker zone and the area of high turbulence created by the collision of the backrushing
  99 KB (15,083 words) - 13:37, 7 November 2021
• Dynamics of mud transport
  ...e size distribution of cohesive suspended particulate matters in a coastal zone. J. Geophysical Research, 117, C03014, 17pp. (doi:10.1029/2011JC007552)</re ...o interaction of heavier saline sea water and lighter fresh river water, a zone with high suspended loads of cohesive sediments, an '''estuarine turbidity
  28 KB (4,158 words) - 16:19, 27 February 2023
• Scaling Issues in Hydraulic Modelling
  ...and economic design solutions to support man’s activities in the coastal zone. Many of our present-day engineering design techniques were developed using ...f zone beach profiles; wave impact pressures and air leakage in the impact zone.
  54 KB (8,152 words) - 11:15, 7 September 2020
• Past EU-funded coastal research projects
  * [[MESSINA]] Managing European Shoreline and Sharing Information on Nearshore Areas * [[MESSINA]] Management of European shoreline and sharing information on nearshore areas
  7 KB (873 words) - 11:50, 17 February 2024
• Dune development
  ...de along sandy coasts, see Fig. 1. They protect settlements in the coastal zone against wave damage and flooding. However, they are not equally well develo ...flective beaches|dissipative coasts]] is strongly promoted by welding of [[nearshore sandbars]] to the beach<ref>Brodie, K.L., Palmsten, M.L. and Spore, N.J. 20
  21 KB (3,125 words) - 23:07, 24 February 2023
• Artificial Neural Networks and coastal applications
  ...iering, M. A. and Turner, I. L. 2007. Recurrent neural network modeling of nearshore sandbar behavior. Neural Networks 20: 509–518</ref>, beach planform <ref> '''[[Nearshore sandbars]]''' <br>
  29 KB (4,514 words) - 16:02, 21 September 2023
• Seawater intrusion and mixing in estuaries
  ...the ebb tidal prism with ‘new’ seawater flowing in from the nearshore zone during flood. ...coefficient <math>f_{dz}</math> depends on the mixing rate within the dead zone; in case of complete mixing during the tidal cycle <math>f_{dz}=1/12 \pi^2<
  48 KB (7,481 words) - 15:07, 2 July 2023
• Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
  * [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]] * [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] – extension of [[Shallow-water wave theory]] with more detailed treatm
  20 KB (2,422 words) - 12:26, 20 February 2024
• Morphology of estuaries
  ...in the inland channels. Most of the fine sediments in the upper estuarine zone are of fluvial origin. See the article [[Coastal and marine sediments]] for ...h zone. Fine sediment is trapped in the estuary, forming a high turbidity zone, the so-called [[estuarine turbidity maximum]]. However, under conditions o
  87 KB (13,505 words) - 12:18, 20 January 2024
• Sediment transport formulas for the coastal environment
  Calculating nearshore sediment transport is a challenge due to the complexity of the hydrodynamic ...ms#Bedload|bedload]], suspended load and typical phenomena observed on the nearshore such as phase-lag effects in [[Definitions of coastal terms#Sheet-flow|shee
  36 KB (5,680 words) - 17:54, 31 August 2022
• Beach Cusps
  ...cusps are probably one of the most intriguing and striking patterns in the nearshore. ...cal simplification of the complicated processes that operates in the swash zone, and many of such complications are bypassed by using a cellular type of ap
  11 KB (1,666 words) - 16:48, 7 October 2022
• Sediment deposition and erosion processes
  ...size class modeling the best approximation for avoiding the (unreal) blank zone is by selecting <math>\tau_d = 0</math> (Fig. 13b) (Winterwerp and van Kest .... (1993). Observations on the entrainment of fluid mud in shear flow. In: Nearshore and Estuarine Cohesive Sediment Transport, A.J. Mehta ed., American Geophys
  63 KB (9,960 words) - 23:03, 28 April 2024
• Infragravity waves
  ...heir first observations their presence has been observed to influence many nearshore processes<ref>Munk, W., 1949. Surf beat, in: Eos Trans. AGU, 30, 849-854</r ...roup. This forces a time-variation of the [[radiation stress]] in the surf zone, which is balanced by a time-varying wave setup, and creates energy at infr
  25 KB (3,848 words) - 16:22, 25 February 2023
• Extreme storms
  ...and/or high sea levels (tide and storm surge) offshore and transformed to nearshore. Tsunamis, namely very long waves most often generated by seismic activity, :[[Risk and coastal zone policy: example from the Netherlands]]
  25 KB (3,812 words) - 20:36, 18 September 2023
• Sand ridges in shelf seas
  ...k of the inner shelf slope; the ridges are thus situated in the transition zone between shoreface and shelf sea, where the seabed is inclined. They occur t
  22 KB (3,464 words) - 15:25, 24 April 2021
• Siltation in harbors and fairways
  ...water to a coastal harbor, thus crossing a (relatively) shallow nearshore zone. Siltation in such fairways occur with fine (silt) and coarse (sand) sedime
  33 KB (5,130 words) - 15:57, 27 February 2023
• Rhythmic shoreline features
  ...ly treated in another article ([[Beach Cusps]] by G.Coco; see also [[Swash zone dynamics]] by T. Baldock). ==Megacusps and rhythmic surf zone bars==
  41 KB (6,530 words) - 10:19, 3 July 2022
• Swash zone dynamics
  .... and T. Baldock (2002). Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the swash zone: a review and perspectives. Coastal Engineering 45: 149-167</ref>.]] ...erosion and the impacts of climate change. The landward edge of the swash zone is highly variable in terms of geomorphology, and may terminate in dunes, c
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Shallow-water wave theory
  In the storm zone generation area high frequency wave energy (e.g. waves with small period) i ...on the shore. Once waves have broken, they enter what is termed the surf zone. Here some of the most complex transformation and attenuation processes oc
  86 KB (13,927 words) - 12:36, 3 May 2023
• Sandy shore habitat
  ...er and part of the day it is exposed to air. [[Tide]]s, waves and [[Swash zone|swash]] supply [[nutrients]] and food. When the tide retreats, waste produc ...better known. Some of them are typical of intertidal beaches and the surf zone, while others are more characteristic of sheltered sandbanks, sandy muds or
  12 KB (1,794 words) - 17:15, 26 December 2023
• Open ocean habitat
  ...rface to a depth of about 200 metres. This is also the limit of the photic zone. Light penetrates into this surface water and is usually enough for the [[p * The mesopelagic zone lies underneath the epipelagic zone and extends to about 1,000 metres.
  14 KB (2,153 words) - 13:08, 23 February 2021
• Active coastal zone
  {{Definition|title= Active coastal zone ...ard boundary (seawall, cliff, ..). In the case of a dune coast the active zone comprises part of the front dune that can be eroded by storm waves. }}
  3 KB (447 words) - 17:07, 26 August 2022
• Characteristics of sedimentary shores
  ...e surf zone. Proceedings of Conference on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone (Sydney, Australia), pp. 208–214</ref> and by Wright and Short (1984)<ref ...t the average cross-shore slope <math>\beta</math> of the [[active coastal zone]] is negatively correlated with <math>\Omega</math>. Coarse sedimentary coa
  24 KB (3,854 words) - 16:00, 30 June 2020
• Shoreface profile
  ...ompared to other influences. A similar definition is: The shoreface is the zone seaward of the shoreline where offshore generated waves interact with the u ...ge) insignificant. The lower part of the shoreface is also called shoaling zone; wave shoaling is the process of wave amplification when waves travel from
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
• Threats to cold water coral reefs, sand banks and seagrass habitats in the North Sea by climate change effects
  ...ave the highest concentration of natural hazards in the world. The coastal zone commonly has the following hazards: coastal [[erosion]], landslides, river ...) <ref>Estuarine and Marine Habitat Report, Massachusets Office of Coastal Zone Government: Online publication 2004</ref>.
  14 KB (2,043 words) - 18:40, 7 March 2023
• Coastal and marine sediments
  ...al timescale of beachrock formation. Beachrock is formed in carbonate-rich nearshore (intertidal) waters, especially in the tropics or subtropics. Limestone fra ...ield, J.G. 1982. The nature and significance of bacterial aggregation in a nearshore upwelling ecosystem. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science 14: 1-11</ref>. F
  56 KB (8,246 words) - 17:33, 30 December 2023
• Hard coastal protection structures
  ...nment. The introduction of coastal protection works will invariably modify nearshore processes in some way and it is important to account for that feedback effe Knowledge of the geology underlying the nearshore zone is important because a stratum that is different from the surface material
  15 KB (2,145 words) - 16:46, 27 September 2021
• Dealing with coastal erosion
  ...drift]] (longshore, mainly wave-driven net sediment transport in the surf zone). The net littoral drift <math>S(x)</math> is usually expressed in units <m ...ne has to be shifted in seaward direction, but the entire [[active coastal zone]]. Furthermore a 'soft' solution must in this case be applied over a rather
  18 KB (2,830 words) - 16:57, 26 August 2022
• European Action Plan Theme Pollution prevention, detection and mitigation
  | '''Quality of nearshore and transitional waters''' | Understanding and forecasting of transport and mixing of pollutants in nearshore waters
  27 KB (4,006 words) - 18:23, 23 February 2019
• Nature-based shore protection
  ...d to the marine environment and can in Europe be found from the intertidal zone at the shore to depths down to 50-60 m. The European species are easy to id ...n the average annual wave height of one to several tens of percents in the nearshore area. Wave damping takes place when the submergence ratio (canopy height o
  69 KB (10,397 words) - 17:04, 17 April 2024
• Shoreface nourishment
  ...stal profile with sand imported from a source outside the [[active coastal zone]].}} ...eates a sand buffer that is progressively spread over the [[active coastal zone]] by longshore and cross-shore transport processes and so contributes to ra
  9 KB (1,419 words) - 18:14, 17 January 2022
• Tidal bore dynamics
  ...ndy/coarse sediments have a sandy or gravelly channel bed in the estuarine zone that produces strong friction (large <math>\phi</math>) and strong tidal en ...es often develop in shallow rivers that discharge from the higher upstream zone into a broad estuary. If the tidal wave has already acquired sufficient asy
  46 KB (6,918 words) - 13:06, 20 January 2024
• Wave run-up
  Wave run-up is the sum of [[wave set-up]] and swash uprush (see [[Swash zone dynamics]]) and must be added to the water level reached as a result of tid ...>). The tide level may influence the wave run-up due to wave breaking on [[nearshore sandbars]].<ref>Guedes, R.M.C., Bryan, K.R., Coco, G. and Holman, R.A. 2011
  7 KB (1,082 words) - 13:00, 18 April 2024
• Swash
  ...d Blenkinsopp, C. 2014. Bed level fluctuations in the inner surf and swash zone of a dissipative beach. Mar. Geol. 349: 99–112</ref>. ...eld data are widely scattered around these trends. See the article [[Swash zone dynamics]] for a more detailed discussion.
  3 KB (447 words) - 20:17, 1 November 2022
• Wave set-up
  ...of the mean water level at the shoreline due to wave breaking in the surf zone.}} ...ve amplitude increases; wave wet-up <math>\eta_u</math> occurs in the surf zone where the wave amplitude decreases. Analytical expressions of the wave set-
  6 KB (925 words) - 20:23, 16 April 2023
• Breaker index
  ...h, such as accretion or erosion trends and the development and dynamics of nearshore bars and rip currents. The breaker index concept has been introduced to est ...Yao, Y., Suzuki, T. and Bricker, J.D. 2019 Numerical simulations of surf zone wave dynamics using Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics. Ocean Modelling 144, 1
  21 KB (3,346 words) - 16:17, 6 April 2024
• Embayed beaches
  ...230 – 250. John Wiley & Sons</ref>; rips associated with gaps between [[nearshore sandbars]] often occur on wide embayed beaches, see [[Rhythmic shoreline fe ...y refracted over slowly adapting depth contours on the less active coastal zone. Hence, the shoreline is almost always in a transitional state, continuousl
  13 KB (2,008 words) - 16:12, 3 October 2021
• Shoreline retreat and recovery
  ...ion/accretion related to structural sand loss/gain on the [[active coastal zone]]. The other type is beach erosion/accretion related to temporal variations ...s related to natural variability of hydrodynamic conditions in the coastal zone. This shoreline shift can be a seasonal fluctuation, but it can also be a m
  29 KB (4,526 words) - 12:45, 24 April 2024
• Seaweed (macro-algae) ecosystem services
  ...aweed species inhabit the littoral zone (nearshore waters) and within that zone, on rocky substrate (bedrock, boulders, cobbles or biogenic structures), wh ...ich there is no substitute. Large-scale seaweed cultivation in inshore and nearshore seas could prevent the loss of phosphates from run-off as these macroalgae
  35 KB (5,044 words) - 17:21, 16 February 2024
• Wave-induced soil liquefaction
  ...n field observations, in the nearshore subtidal zone and in the intertidal zone. In the latter case it was found that even a small volume fraction of air i
  26 KB (4,133 words) - 18:38, 7 March 2024
• Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry
  ...frequency with which surveys can be carried out. Major parts of world’s nearshore waters have never been surveyed with in-situ sonar equipment. ...irborne remote sensing with hyperspectral sensors has wide applications in nearshore coastal waters, not only for bathymetric surveys but also for mapping subma
  32 KB (4,966 words) - 22:35, 9 February 2024
• Bathymetry from remote sensing wave propagation
  ...bathymetry and surface undulation patterns. The focus is on the nearshore zone and surface patterns produced by propagating waves. ...2033</ref><ref>Aarninkhof, S.G.J., Ruessink, B.G. and Roelvink, J.A. 2005. Nearshore subtidal bathymetry from time-exposure video images. J. Geophys. Res. 110,
  10 KB (1,593 words) - 10:46, 29 January 2024