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• Infragravity waves
  ...Fig. 1). They are indirectly formed by the wind because they receive their energy from the short sea- and swell waves, which have typical periods of 2-20s. W ...duces a variation of the mean water level on a group scale, and results in energy that fluctuates at the same frequency as the wave group. This induced wave
  31 KB (4,773 words) - 15:34, 5 June 2024
• Extreme storms
  ...ts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland”. Marine Geology, Vol. 210(1), 261-280.</ref><ref name=MJ>Mendoza, E.T. and Jiménez ...ical cyclones which form almost exclusively over tropical seas, as well as marine storm events resulting from severe wave conditions and/or high sea levels (
  25 KB (3,812 words) - 20:36, 18 September 2023
• Swash zone dynamics
  ...considered as the region of the beach face exposed to the atmosphere over wind, swell and infragravity wave durations, i.e., seconds to a few minutes. ...ding waves (figure 2a). On intermediate and reflective beaches, short wave energy reaches the beach face in the form of bores or shore-breaks, which collapse
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Shallow-water wave theory
  ...es. The first section provides a descriptive overview of the generation of wind waves, their characteristics, the processes which control their movement an Ocean waves are mainly generated by the action of wind on water. The waves are formed initially by a complex process of resonance
  91 KB (14,631 words) - 15:30, 5 June 2024
• Ecosystem services
  ...services approach is a reductionist method, but the benefits arising from marine biodiversity are entirely dependent on the state of the whole ecosystem. Th ...provided by marine biodiversity: Implications for the ecosystem approach. Marine Pollution Bulletin 54: 253–265</ref>
  28 KB (4,079 words) - 22:20, 6 April 2024
• Open ocean habitat
  ...ne of the sub-categories within the section dealing with biodiversity of [[marine habitats and ecosystems]]. It gives an overview about the characteristics, ...masses and thus their relative motion. The circulation patterns driven by wind and density differences are strongly influenced by topography. Further info
  14 KB (2,153 words) - 13:08, 23 February 2021
• Littoral drift and shoreline modelling
  where <math>E</math> is the wave energy density [J/m²]. By assuming shallow water conditions at the loca ...he formula proposed by Bagnold (1963)<ref>Bagnold, R.A. 1963. Mechanics of Marine Sedimentation, in The Sea, Vol. 3, 507-528, (ed. Hill, M.N.), Interscience,
  29 KB (4,592 words) - 15:49, 5 June 2024
• Characteristics of sedimentary shores
  ..., N.E. 2017. Shoreline management guidelines. DHI https://www.dhigroup.com/marine-water/ebook-shoreline-management-guidelines</ref>. ...D. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology, 56: 93-118.</ref>, is the ratio of the significant wave height at
  24 KB (3,854 words) - 16:00, 30 June 2020
• Shoreface profile
  ...wer shoreface can be theoretically related to sediment transport by strong wind-driven currents. Other definitions of the outer boundary of the lower shore Most energy is dissipated in the upper part of the shoreface, where wave overturning an
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
• Ocean and shelf tides
  ...western part of the Indian Ocean <ref>Lyard F.H. and Le Provost, C. 1997. Energy budget of the tidal hydrodynamical model FES94.1. Geophys. Res. Lett. 24(6) ===Tidal energy dissipation===
  27 KB (4,146 words) - 23:36, 19 January 2024
• EU workshop (2007) on climate change and eutrophication
  ...to integrate scientific knowledge on climate change and eutrophication for marine and coastal waters. ...problems and possibly increase the proliferation of harmful algal bloom.In marine and coastal waters, eutrophication occurs as a result of the additions of c
  11 KB (1,645 words) - 20:28, 27 June 2020
• Coastal and marine sediments
  {{Definition|title=Marine sediment ==Origin of coastal and marine sediments==
  56 KB (8,246 words) - 17:33, 30 December 2023
• Oil spill pollution impact and recovery
  ...stige Oil Spill on the Biota of NW Spain: 5 Years of Learning. Advances in Marine Biology 56: 365-396</ref>): ...d. Important losses of reproductive and breeding habitats may occur in low-energy environments such as rías, bays, estuaries or coastal marshes, which tend
  32 KB (4,859 words) - 16:36, 15 February 2024
• Natural variability and change in coastal ecosystems
  ...e, at different geographical scales and at different levels of coastal and marine ecosystems. The way in which natural variation is influenced by issues rela Coastal and marine [[ecosystems]] are not in a steady state, but exhibit continuous changes in
  28 KB (4,152 words) - 12:34, 6 March 2022
• Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments
  ...ate (small) changes in seabed/beach level; (2) potential to dissipate wave energy, thus reducing wave loads on the structure, and also reducing the tendency ...t design conditions correspond to a situation with high waves and a strong wind- and wave-driven set-up of the mean water level. In this situation waves ar
  53 KB (8,394 words) - 12:45, 26 May 2024
• The backbarrier tidal flats in the southern North Sea - A multidisciplinary approach to reveal the main driving forces shaping the system
  ...nisms. In addition, tidal flats may provide significant protection against marine erosion.<br> ...ms, marine biotechnology and the production of renewable energy in coastal wind and wave power installations. Exploitation of resources always carries by t
  22 KB (3,418 words) - 22:48, 2 July 2023
• Breaker index
  ...t of two-dimensional deep-water wave groups in the presence and absence of wind. J. Fluid Mech. 811: 642–658 </ref>, wave breaking starts on the shorefac <math> gradient \; of \; wave \; energy \; flux = wave \; energy \; dissipation, \qquad (6)</math>
  21 KB (3,346 words) - 16:17, 6 April 2024
• Harbor resonance
  ...ave celerity. These wave periods are in general longer than the periods of wind waves and shorter than the periods of tidal components. Significant wave mo # Outward radiation. The reflected wave takes energy away from the basin and thus reduces the wave motion inside. This is illust
  18 KB (2,870 words) - 15:49, 9 May 2024
• Shoreline retreat and recovery
  ...Morphodynamic variability of high-energy macrotidal beaches, Cornwall, UK. Marine Geol. 350: 97-111</ref>. During summer, low-energy swell waves carry the sand deposited on the upper shoreface back to the sub
  29 KB (4,526 words) - 12:45, 24 April 2024
• Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry
  ...ions]] and the use of radar in the article [[Use of X-band and HF radar in marine hydrography]], both with references to other related articles. However, the ...Coastal Bathymetry—Review, User Needs and Future Services. Frontiers in Marine Science 8, 740830</ref>. The accuracy of satellite-derived bathymetry is us
  32 KB (4,966 words) - 22:35, 9 February 2024

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