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• Wave climate classification according to wind climate
  ..., cause correspondingly characteristic wave climates. These characteristic wave climates can be classified as follows: ==Storm wave climate==
  6 KB (946 words) - 12:13, 16 September 2020

Page text matches

• Groynes
  ..., groynes partly dissipate energy of water motion during weak and moderate wave conditions, leading to [[accretion]] of the updrift shoreline. However, whe ...pact on shore morphology; the impact also depends on sea water level, wave climate and sediment supply in the surf zone.
  8 KB (1,248 words) - 17:16, 5 October 2021
• Detached shore parallel breakwaters
  ...taking into consideration the physical and economic conditions (e.g. wave climate or quarries), the social environment (e.g. aesthetic rules or tourism) as w ...[[crest]] [[freeboard]], the higher the aesthetic impact and the lower the wave transmission to the shoreline is. The LCSs for shoreline erosion control ar
  6 KB (878 words) - 20:33, 4 July 2020
• Characteristics of muddy coasts
  ...coasts are only found in environments that are fairly calm with respect to wave conditions, or where there is abundant supply of fine sediments. They are n ...climates where rivers supply abundant fine material to coastal zone (CZ). Wave exposure is normally low to moderate; the tidal regime can be any. [[Silt]]
  9 KB (1,308 words) - 15:59, 15 May 2021
• Definitions of coastal terms
  ...ynamic, with up and down redistribution of sand by the action of tides, [[#Wave|waves]] and wind. It extends from the [[#Closure depth|closure depth]] up t ...urs, by [[#Refraction|refraction]]. See: [[Shallow-water wave theory]], [[Wave transformation]]. The [[#Deep water|deep water]] angle of incidence is ofte
  79 KB (11,862 words) - 21:40, 1 April 2024
• Coastal Hydrodynamics And Transport Processes
  ...om [[Tidal wave|waves]] transforming over a coastal profile and generating wave set up and [[Longshore current|longshore currents]], will result in movemen ...he water movements. These movements can be caused by the current or by the wave orbital velocities or a combination of both, the latter being the most impo
  29 KB (4,518 words) - 11:18, 6 July 2020
• Natural causes of coastal erosion
  ...r the influence of fluctuating forcing (fluctuations in water levels, wave climate, including storms) have a temporal, quasi-cyclic character. Ongoing trends ...erosion and accretion in response to fluctuations in water level and wave climate (including storms) are temporal quasi-cyclic phenomena in this case, see [[
  14 KB (2,169 words) - 17:21, 26 August 2022
• Human causes of coastal erosion
  ...l cause or a human cause. Climate change, which influences sea level, wave climate and sediment supply, is considered a natural cause. The largest structural *The wave climate and the orientation of the shoreline (see [[Classification of sandy coastli
  29 KB (4,651 words) - 22:27, 2 July 2022
• Detached breakwaters
  ...ct a coast or activities along the coastline (e.g. ports, ship wharf) from wave action. In general terms, a detached breakwater is a coast-parallel structu *To provide shelter from [[Definitions of coastal terms#Wave|waves]]
  31 KB (4,715 words) - 23:55, 30 March 2024
• Dune stabilisation
  ...ural protection ability of dune areas. It provides some protection against wave and storm surge attack and at the same time it preserves the natural coasta ...on moderately exposed to exposed coasts with perpendicular to very oblique wave (wind) attacks. There is ample evidence for the effectiveness of sand fence
  9 KB (1,306 words) - 19:25, 1 August 2023
• Coves - artificial formation and use
  The formation and shape of a [[cove]] is fairly independent of the wave climate due to the relatively narrow opening. The [[cove]] concept is very similar ..., as the structures can only hold a short beach section due to the oblique wave exposure.
  4 KB (646 words) - 17:40, 18 January 2022
• Waves
  ...ve period]] and a propagation direction. Wave fields with many different [[wave period]]s and heights are called irregular. ==Wave classifications==
  20 KB (2,992 words) - 16:09, 14 February 2024
• Statistical description of wave parameters
  ...ibution of wave heights is given by the Rayleigh distribution. Statistical wave parameters are often calculated based on this distribution. The most common ===Significant wave height===
  24 KB (3,898 words) - 13:12, 23 November 2023
• Wave climate classification according to wind climate
  ..., cause correspondingly characteristic wave climates. These characteristic wave climates can be classified as follows: ==Storm wave climate==
  6 KB (946 words) - 12:13, 16 September 2020
• Currents
  ...stress]] gradients (in practive wave energy gradients) that arise through wave breaking. ...cross the surf zone towards the coastline, as explained in [[Shallow-water wave theory]]. This current has its maximum within the [[breaker zone]]. During
  14 KB (2,112 words) - 14:00, 20 January 2024
• Bar
  ...each or on a tidal flat due to the landward transport of sand or gravel by wave uprush (swash). They may be related to onshore moving breaker bars. ...mobile formations, which tend to be in unstable equilibrium with the wave climate and tide conditions, which means that they are constantly changing.
  2 KB (297 words) - 12:22, 27 March 2021
• Closure depth
  ...to continental shelf, and corresponds to the depth where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average insignificant compar ...nts]] are the dominant sediment-transporting mechanisms, as well as to non-wave dominated locations, such as the beach adjacent to a long jetty, at which s
  23 KB (3,596 words) - 12:03, 24 April 2024
• Coastline
  ...of the corresponding measuring technique (e.g. not influenced by tide or [[wave run-up]]); ...influence of storms and the influence of seasonal variability in the wave climate.
  6 KB (879 words) - 17:04, 26 August 2022
• Sea level rise
  ...g Group I to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Masson-Delmotte, V., P. Zhai, A. Pirani, S. L. Connors, C. Péan, S ...g Group I to the Fifth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Stocker, T.F., D. Qin, G.-K. Plattner, M. Tignor, S.K. Allen, J. Bo
  41 KB (6,164 words) - 16:08, 21 January 2024
• Shoreline management
  ...e good beach quality by securing that the beaches are exposed to waves, as wave action maintains attractive sandy beaches. This will of course limit the ti ...scription of coastline; Physical significance (eg offshore banks dissipate wave energy, cliffs can provide a sediment supply etc.); Width of foreshore indi
  38 KB (5,697 words) - 22:31, 2 July 2022
• Foresight project, UK
  ...cy and, importantly, direction. This should include analysis of a range of climate models and be combined with analysis of changes to surges to generate consi ...climate change. More fundamentally, the conflicting results from different climate models need more detailed comparison and analysis to study the causes of th
  3 KB (532 words) - 15:10, 22 July 2019
• FUTURECOAST project, UK
  ...of variations in sediment supply and forcing parameters, such as tide and wave energy. However, it is also important to look for situations where the syst ...evolution, are the underlying geology and coastal forcing, e.g. prevailing wave activity. Large-scale shoreline evolution may be broadly considered in term
  20 KB (3,041 words) - 12:04, 7 September 2020
• Groynes as shore protection
  *type 1: ''Perpendicular wave incidence'', angle of incidence close to zero, small net littoral drift *type 2: ''Nearly perpendicular wave incidence '', angle of incidence 1^o - 10^o, net littor
  21 KB (3,352 words) - 17:17, 5 October 2021
• How to apply models
  [[Image:figure1.jpg|thumb|350px|right|Fig. 1. Illustration of important wave and littoral transport processes]] *[[Waves#Wave generation|Wave generation]] and wave propagation from [[deep water]] to [[shallow water]]
  18 KB (2,697 words) - 11:29, 20 February 2024
• DeCyDe for Sustainability Policy tool
  ...f wind and wave power installations and, of course, the unknown effects of climate change are ever-present. Today, coastal degradation is still rapidly occurr :# Energy & Climate Change (1 optional indicator).
  25 KB (3,543 words) - 21:40, 7 August 2021
• CNEXO experimental SandPit in Seine Estuary
  ...and also shows both the location of the Candhis wave buoy used to collect wave data and the location of two well-known and well-studied sediment deposits [[Image:climate.JPG|thumb|Figure 6: Simplified wave climate]]
  10 KB (1,558 words) - 20:28, 28 June 2019
• Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions
  ...mics as eigenfunctions are fixed in space since bars, on the contrary, are wave-like patterns that travel in time. Extended EOFs and Complex Principal Comp ...e than 32 years, see Fig. 2. No firm explanation for the existence of this wave could be provided. Physical mechanisms that may produce standing shoreline
  25 KB (4,098 words) - 15:59, 20 November 2021
• Parametric equilibrium models
  ...iles would take the form shown above if the dominant destructive force was wave energy dissipation per unit volume (Dean et al., 2002 <ref name=D>Dean, R.G ...ly suitable for assessing the sensitivity of eroding soft cliffs to future climate change. On the other hand both Cooper and Pilkey (2004b)<ref> Cooper, J.A.
  8 KB (1,195 words) - 12:36, 3 October 2021
• Blue carbon sequestration
  ...way and possess self-sustaining capacity by promoting sedimentation, see [[Climate adaptation measures for the coastal zone]]. They also contribute to the goa ...by calcifying organisms (e.g. [[coral reefs]], oyster reefs) contribute to climate change adaptation through energy dissipation and contribution to sediments,
  41 KB (6,267 words) - 13:40, 21 April 2024
• Coastal mud belt
  ...y, P., Rogers, W.E., Pednekar, P.S., Babu, M.T and Dineshkumar, P.K. 2017. Wave energy dissipation due to mudbanks formed off southwest coast of India. Est ...e fluid mud layer by pushing it onshore. Onshore-offshore asymmetry of the wave orbital motion due to nonlinearity of the interaction with the bed (see [[S
  24 KB (3,842 words) - 18:14, 13 January 2024
• Waves and currents by X-band radar
  ...and currents. Due to climate change and its impact on coastal protection, wave and current measurements are of growing importance. ...re and software components, the nautical radar can be used as wave sensor. Wave measurements by X-Band radar systems are a reliable data source for support
  12 KB (1,894 words) - 11:32, 25 January 2024
• Stability models
  Similarly, a beach under constant wave forcing is commonly assumed to reach after some time certain equilibrium pr ...astal system, <math> \alpha </math> could represent sediment grain size or wave height, and
  41 KB (6,565 words) - 16:15, 4 October 2021
• Dune erosion
  |definition= Sand loss from a dune under wave attack, mainly by notching, avalanching and slumping processes.}} ...lines worldwide during the last millennia when sea-level rise slowed down. Wave action and onshore winds are the main agents for coastal dune development a
  42 KB (6,534 words) - 12:05, 15 November 2023
• Effect of climate change on coastline evolution
  ...h is based on extrapolation of historic behaviour, is inappropriate if the climate changes. ...of sandy coasts with no cliff or shore platform. It assumes that the wave climate is steady and consequently the (average equilibrium) [[beach profile]] does
  8 KB (1,288 words) - 21:24, 19 March 2021
• Mediterranean Sea and Region, including Adriatic Sea
  ...decreasing freshwater due to dams and river diversions. Under the changing climate regime, sea surface temperatures and salinity will increase. [[Biodiversity ...les, for the Mediterranean, complex interactions between overfishing and [[climate change]] could facilitate [[ecosystem]] shifts. An example is the presence
  11 KB (1,724 words) - 10:56, 1 August 2020
• Greek case studies: Morphological evolution of the R.Alfios deltaic shoreline
  ...3</sup>/s. In accordance to high amounts of water discharge, the temperate climate, the relatively erodible lithology (Quaternary deposits and flysch ~52%), a ...nd W and NW. Due to very long (hundreds of km) fetches, a wave regime with wave heights >5 m during storms drives a longshore northward sediment transport
  5 KB (726 words) - 10:06, 2 July 2020
• Mangroves
  ...P.M.F., van den Berg, N.J.F., Siemerink, M. and Hulscher, S.J.M.H. 2014. Wave attenuation in mangroves: A quantitative approach to field observations. Co * Shores must be free of strong [[waves|wave]] action and strong [[tidal current]]s.
  42 KB (6,310 words) - 17:09, 21 April 2024
• Seagrass meadows
  The environmental tolerance thresholds of seagrass species in different climate zones vary by species. Habitat Suitability Indices that associate seagrass ...that are able to adapt their environment: they clarify water by damping wave action and retaining fine sediments and they modify substrate chemistry by
  37 KB (5,414 words) - 20:23, 24 December 2023
• Coastal squeeze
  This article complements the article '[[Effects of global climate change on European marine biodiversity]]' by Lieven Therry with a shorth in ...hese shorebirds<ref name="Nicholls"> Nicholls, R.J.; Klein, R.J.T. (2005). Climate change and coastal management in Europe's coast, '''in''': Vermaat, J.E. ''
  7 KB (1,034 words) - 13:09, 6 March 2022
• Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal
  ...e intervention area, in the range of 0.25 to 0.5m/s. On the downdrift area wave breaking currents can reach values of around 2m/s. .... The tide and wave values indicate that, in general, this is a mesotidal, wave-dominated coast.
  37 KB (5,937 words) - 18:06, 18 January 2022
• Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes
  Salt marshes are regularly subjected to tidal movement and wave action. Tidal channels control the drainage of this seawater and allow [[de ...ecies compensate for lack of competitive ability by being more tolerant to wave disturbance than high shore species (Pennings and Calloway 1992 <ref>PENNIN
  18 KB (2,451 words) - 18:54, 7 March 2023
• Bulkheads
  ...course, be designed to resist erosion caused by the mild to moderate wave climate at a specific site.
  2 KB (305 words) - 12:17, 16 September 2020
• Large scale mapping of intertidal areas
  ...opments within the national park areas. For ascertaining the influences of climate change as well as short term disturbances like large scale coastal construc ...probably shows a lower sensitivity to current velocity and disturbances by wave energy (Fig. 7).
  10 KB (1,456 words) - 18:47, 28 April 2009
• Salt marshes
  ...t extensive development of saltmarshes occurs in estuaries with a moderate climate, large tidal range, abundant fine-grained sediments and sheltered locations ...gh the tidal channels of these high marshes. Lateral channel migration and wave attack at the base of marsh cliffs are the main mechanisms for erosion of m
  28 KB (4,120 words) - 21:17, 24 April 2024
• Coral reefs
  ...cold waters and soft corals that live in shallow, cold waters. Corals are wave resistant rock structures, created by calcium carbonate secreting animals a ...Horizontal and vertical [[zonation]] depends on bottom topography, depth, wave and current strength, light, temperature and suspended sediments.
  27 KB (4,098 words) - 22:25, 5 April 2024
• Ocean circulation
  ..., the El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO) in particular, produce important climate fluctuations. Ocean currents not only distribute heat, but they also play a ...f the coupled ocean-atmosphere dynamics produces large fluctuations in the climate of the Pacific region, which are felt at the global scale. Weakening of the
  17 KB (2,486 words) - 15:39, 3 May 2021
• Surf zone
  ...where waves break as a consequence of depth limitation and surf onshore as wave bores.}} ...level. The surf zone is narrow and close to the shoreline in a gentle wave climate and can be very wide under storm conditions, extending from the seaward bou
  808 bytes (124 words) - 12:57, 12 April 2022
• Flood risk analysis study at the German Bight Coast
  ...l Panel on Climate Change provide strong evidence that an ongoing global [[climate change]] will cause increased storminess and [[sea level rise]] in coastal ...[[coastal defence]], has to be steadily adjusted to be prepared for future climate conditions.
  25 KB (3,734 words) - 11:46, 17 February 2024
• Baltic Sea
  ...of mild Atlantic climate in south-west end to harsh continental – boreal climate in Bothnian Bay area. It is connected with Atlantic Ocean through system o .... Composed mainly of sand, are vulnerable to mechanical stress of wind and wave action and due to its mobility is not conducive to seaweeds and vascular p
  14 KB (2,085 words) - 15:24, 20 September 2020
• Carrying capacity and development of the Wadden Sea
  ...these highly dynamic environments against a changing baseline due to e.g. climate change. This complexity and uncertainty means that the significance of effe ...for the Wadden Sea while at the same time water tempature is rising due to climate change or the competition for habitat and food is increasing due to the inv
  11 KB (1,721 words) - 12:53, 6 March 2022
• Coastal cities and sea level rise
  This article deals with the potential impact of climate change on cities that are located on the coast and therefore vulnerable to == Vulnerability to climate change and sea level rise==
  51 KB (7,528 words) - 12:22, 22 January 2024
• Species extinction
  ...ange in [[Effects of global climate change on European marine biodiversity|climate]]<ref>Herringshaw, L.G. and Davies, N.S. 2008. Bioturbation levels during t ...However, in the last three decades, other drivers, such as climate change, climate variability, and pollution, prevail in the published literature<ref name=NK
  25 KB (3,716 words) - 18:44, 23 February 2024
• Marine Plankton
  ...ht to serve as a grazing deterrent. It is also suggested to play a role in climate regulation by stimulating the formation of clouds. There is growing concern ...se animals. The cilia refract light like a prism, giving rise to wave upon wave of rainbow colours that sweep over their body. In the 1980’s an invasive
  34 KB (5,059 words) - 17:27, 25 April 2024
• Mediterranean seagrass ecosystem
  ...dows accumulate sediment and mediate wave motion, minimising the effect of wave action and therefore helping to stabilise the coastline. This process also ...y long period ''P. oceanica'' seagrass beds form into reefs that slow down wave movement and protect the shore from erosion. The leaves trap larger grains
  37 KB (5,390 words) - 17:55, 24 February 2023
• Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques
  ...diation, temperature and wind, for instance) and other sea parameters like wave action, even for places and variables for which measurements do not exist. ...name="V99">von Storch, H. & Zwiers, F. W. (1999). Statistical Analysis in Climate Research. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.</ref>), a standard statist
  5 KB (796 words) - 17:00, 23 August 2020
• Sand dune - Country Report, Finland
  ...stablished. The main dune areas occur in the Gulf of Bothnia, where strong wave action affects the shores. The surface deposits are largely composed of san ...rograding sandy northern coast has numerous emerged beach ridges formed by wave and wind action, surveys of their levels in relation to land uplift showing
  12 KB (1,872 words) - 09:24, 30 July 2019
• Sand dune - Country Report, Spain
  The current hydrodynamic setting of this wave dominated coast denotes that wind provenance from the north acts more time ...anada coast is mostly dedicated to agriculture because of the sub-tropical climate and there are few and small dunes, but in the littoral of the Malaga region
  29 KB (4,726 words) - 09:39, 30 July 2019
• Disturbances, biodiversity changes and ecosystem stability
  ...ty and production of rocky shore macroalgae at two nutrient enrichment and wave action levels. Mar. Biol. 157: 29–47</ref>. Other sources of disturbance ...ing. Management initiatives should focus their attention on responses to [[climate change]] and on reducing the impact of invasive species on rocky shore asse
  12 KB (1,660 words) - 18:34, 16 December 2020
• Nile Delta
  The CASE is characterised by a fluvio-marine [[Wave-dominated river deltas|delta]], a low lying coast with lagoon and wetlands - Climate change effects such as erosion
  2 KB (264 words) - 15:20, 29 August 2016
• Wave energy converters
  ...ef> several estimates are presented for the world total potential of ocean wave energy resources. These estimates were obtained using methods as illustrate ...and Rusu (2021<ref>Rusu, L. and Rusu, E. 2021. Evaluation of the Worldwide Wave Energy Distribution Based on ERA5 Data and Altimeter Measurements. Energies
  62 KB (9,587 words) - 22:04, 7 May 2024
• Nearshore sandbars
  [[File:WaveTransformation.jpg|thumb|left|400px|<small>Fig. 1. Wave transformation in the nearshore zone. </small>]] ...he breaking of waves further away from the shoreline; they thus reduce the wave forces exerted directly on the shore<ref>Quartel, S., Kroon, A. and Ruessin
  24 KB (3,613 words) - 17:34, 14 November 2023
• Deteriorated groynes
  * Tilting of insufficiently deep driven piles due to ice loads and/or wave action. ...ence of tides waves are the only source of energy; their breaking produces wave-driven currents that govern alongshore and on- and offshore sediment migrat
  25 KB (3,878 words) - 17:18, 3 September 2020
• Biogenic reefs of Europe and temporal variability
  ...to their contribution to sediment entrainment, bed stability and potential wave energy attenuation, these are: ''[http://www.marinespecies.org/aphia.php?p= ...a Biodiversity Action Plan Species in Northwest England: possible role of climate change, artificial habitat and water quality amelioration. A report submitt
  26 KB (3,875 words) - 18:26, 7 March 2023
• Dynamics, threats and management of dunes
  ...2005<ref>TSOAR H., 2005. Sand dunes mobility and stability in relation to climate. ''Physica A'', '''357''': 50‐56. </ref>). Vegetation is necessary to tra ...Group II to the Fifth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom and New York,
  15 KB (2,195 words) - 12:23, 8 October 2021
• Shore protection vegetation
  ...p, J.A., Bell, G.L. and Moore, C. 2019. The response of vegetated dunes to wave attack. Coastal Engineering 152, 103506 </ref>): # by decreasing wave runup, due to the frictional effect of stems and foliage;
  76 KB (10,699 words) - 12:24, 15 November 2023
• Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes
  ...rming a steep slope. At the disturbed edge, sediment is more vulnerable to wave action and currents. So once a cliff starts to erode, this process will not ...d dredging are some of the proposed [[anthropogenic]] causes. In addition, climate change and [[sea level rise]] receive much attention as a cause of salt mar
  43 KB (6,451 words) - 18:31, 7 March 2023
• Dynamics, threats and management of biogenic reefs
  ...to their contribution to sediment entrainment, bed stability and potential wave energy attenuation, these are: ''[http://www.marinespecies.org/aphia.php?p= As ''S. spinulosa'' is a sedentary [[species]], it relies on wave and current action to supply food and wash away waste products (Kirtley, 19
  69 KB (10,049 words) - 18:34, 7 March 2023
• Reef
  * Create a wave pattern that promotes the sport of surfing. ...ld water coral reefs, sand banks and seagrass habitats in the North Sea by climate change effects]]
  1 KB (184 words) - 18:36, 7 March 2023
• Integrating Climate Change into the ICZM planning process - Analysis and Future
  {{ICZM Process and Climate Change/TabsHeader|This=3}} ...for the subsequent preparation of the plan and its implementation. From a climate viewpoint the key tasks are to:
  23 KB (3,668 words) - 16:05, 5 February 2020
• Gravel Beaches
  ...he world, including the USA, Canada, Japan, Argentina, New Zealand and the wave dominated coastlines of Northern Europe <ref name="Buscome 2006">Buscome D. ...y relatively rapid rises of sea level after cold episodes in the earth’s climate.
  40 KB (6,109 words) - 17:19, 24 February 2023
• Wave energy converters in coastal structures
  ...to wave energy conversion methods the reader is referred to the article [[Wave energy converters]]. ...in shallow water where the depth imposes the maximal amplitude because of wave breaking.
  20 KB (3,003 words) - 15:51, 25 February 2023
• Modelling coastal hydrodynamics
  ...efined as the region extending from a landward limit associated with storm-wave phenomena (e.g., overwash), to a seaward limit beyond the point where incid ...br> However, the study of [[nearshore]] hydrodynamics is not an easy task. Wave, current and turbulence scales tend to overlap, thus giving rise to the int
  99 KB (15,083 words) - 13:37, 7 November 2021
• Scaling Issues in Hydraulic Modelling
  ...ding scale effects and testing new forcing situations. Especially due to [[climate change]] and the demand for bigger structures located at higher depths, mor ...elopments, namely the physics and modelling of [[sediment]] transport, the wave-structure interaction analysis and loads determination, [[erosion]] and sco
  54 KB (8,152 words) - 11:15, 7 September 2020
• Dune development
  ...y coasts, see Fig. 1. They protect settlements in the coastal zone against wave damage and flooding. However, they are not equally well developed everywher * wave climate
  21 KB (3,125 words) - 23:07, 24 February 2023
• European coastal and marine observatories (2020)
  ...d in SiCO1 near the bottom to widen the contribution of the observatory to climate studies and ocean acidification research. ...ing the observing activities. The Athos buoy, equipped with meteo, T, C/S, wave sensors and current meter down to 100m in depth, is located in the coastal
  47 KB (6,585 words) - 12:44, 8 September 2020
• Climate adaptation measures for the coastal zone
  ...and [[Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM)]]. The important issue of climate adaptation in coastal cities is dealt with in a separate article [[Coastal ...g Group I to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change [Masson-Delmotte, V., P. Zhai, A. Pirani, S. L. Connors, C. Péan, S
  30 KB (4,609 words) - 12:46, 15 November 2023
• Sand Dune Inventory of Europe - Israel
  ...is due to a longshore sand “sink” there, with lots of sand trapped by wave refraction (Goldsmith and Golik 1980). According to Bronze Age sites, the H ...005)<ref>Tsoar, H., 2005. Sand dunes mobility and stability in relation to climate. Physica a-Statistical Mechanics and Its Applications, 357/1, 50-56.</ref>.
  14 KB (2,095 words) - 09:40, 30 July 2019
• Rocky shore morphology
  ...y depends, among other things, on mineralogy, lithology, tectonic history, climate, waves and tides. Some rocky coasts consist of steep plunging cliffs; this ...sea also focus wave energy by wave refraction, which can partly offset the wave attenuation function. An equilibrium profile is reached when platform retre
  11 KB (1,732 words) - 17:10, 24 June 2022
• Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
  ...drodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initia * [[Shallow-water wave theory]]
  20 KB (2,422 words) - 12:26, 20 February 2024
• Morphology of estuaries
  ...h fluvial and marine sources, and that contains facies influenced by tide, wave and fluvial processes. The estuary is considered to extend from the landwar * Wave, characterized by the significant storm wave height (e.g. 2% annual exceedance) and corresponding incidence angle
  87 KB (13,505 words) - 12:18, 20 January 2024
• Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries
  ...ted changes in both mean sea level and river flows linked to future global climate change scenarios. Impacts from a rise in mean sea level of 1 m are shown to How will estuaries adapt to Global Climate Change?
  50 KB (7,345 words) - 17:09, 2 July 2020
• Wave-dominated river deltas
  ...ard, pp. 86–98, Houston Geological Society, Houston, TX. </ref>] showing wave dominated deltas in the lower left corner. Image <ref>Seybold, H., J. S. An ...acteristic delta morphology is associated with a particular combination of wave, tidal and fluvial factors, and developed a ternary diagram of delta morpho
  13 KB (1,953 words) - 21:33, 3 July 2020
• Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management
  ...measures that can promote coastal safety and sustainability in a changing climate. # the assessment of vulnerability to natural hazards and climate change (DIVA, RegIS, CVAT, DESYCO, KRIM, Coastal Simulator, THESEUS);
  17 KB (2,405 words) - 11:54, 20 February 2024
• Shelf sea exchange with the ocean
  ...ve. Right panel: Sketch of cross-slope structure of mode 3 coastal-trapped wave. The 3 lines sloping away from the sea floor denote zeros of pressure.]] ...g|thumb|300px|right|Figure 3: Sketch showing main sense of coastal-trapped wave propagation around ocean boundaries. Energy (but not phase) may travel in
  34 KB (5,118 words) - 12:02, 29 June 2020
• Extreme storms
  [[Image:PrinosFig1.3.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Fig. 1c. Wave overtopping a coastal breakwater, Hartlepool, UK. Courtesy of HR Wallingfor ...er a beach at Point Pelee National Park, Ontario. (credit: Environment and Climate Change Canada/ Public Works and Government Services Canada / Richard Vroom,
  25 KB (3,812 words) - 20:36, 18 September 2023
• Siltation in harbors and fairways
  ...|Linear wave theory]] gives a first-order estimate of the ratio of maximum wave-induced bed shear stresses: [[Image: HanFig9new.jpg|thumb|350px|right|<small>Figure 12: Ratio of maximum wave-induced bed shear stresses on the channel bed and in the surrounding waters
  33 KB (5,130 words) - 15:57, 27 February 2023
• Rhythmic shoreline features
  ...flat bed under the coupling of water and sand (see [[Wave ripples]] and [[Wave ripple formation]]). The origin of the shoreline undulations is unknown but ...typically increases in the order a, b, c. However, depending mainly on the wave energy level, their lengthscale can overlap (see Figure 2). For instance, m
  41 KB (6,530 words) - 10:19, 3 July 2022
• Swash zone dynamics
  ...of the littoral zone most associated with beach erosion and the impacts of climate change. The landward edge of the swash zone is highly variable in terms of ...morphology, and beach erosion and beach recovery during and after storms. Wave runup is an important factor in the design of coastal protection and also g
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Shallow-water wave theory
  ...vement and transformation. The following sections describe some aspects of wave theory of particular application in coastal engineering. Some results are q ==Wave generation==
  86 KB (13,927 words) - 12:36, 3 May 2023
• Estuarine ecosystems
  * Physical protection of the coastline through wave dissipation (see [[Natural shore protecting barriers]]) ...n a shift of the salinity zonation landwards (see also [[Effects of global climate change on European marine biodiversity]]). However, coastal areas, includin
  22 KB (3,117 words) - 23:14, 20 January 2024
• Active coastal zone
  ...th, <math>h_{in}</math>) can be estimated from the yearly mean significant wave height <math>H_s</math> by the approximate formula (for micro/meso-tidal be ...ld data because the closure depth depends on local characteristics of wave climate, tide, sediment and bathymetry.
  3 KB (447 words) - 17:07, 26 August 2022
• Characteristics of sedimentary shores
  ...tting, sediment type, sediment supply, wave climate and tidal regime. Wave climate and tidal regime bear some relationship with the size of the adjacent sea. ...math> and the downward settling distance of beach sediment during the peak wave period <math>T_p</math>,
  24 KB (3,854 words) - 16:00, 30 June 2020
• Shoreface profile
  ...the mean low-water line and that extends seaward to where the influence of wave action on cross-shore sediment transport is on average minor compared to ot ...ermeier, R.J. 1981. A profile zonation for seasonal sand beaches from wave climate. Coast. Eng. 4: 253–277</ref>), yielding the formula (see also [[Closure
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
• Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise
  If climate change affects only the sea level, while leaving the wave climate unchanged, Bruun reasoned that the slope of the equilibrium shoreface profi ...rise is a slow process on a large spatial scale. Fluctuations in the wave climate generally occur on much shorter time scales. Considering long coastal stret
  11 KB (1,739 words) - 22:49, 11 December 2022
• European Platform for Biodiversity Research Strategy: Recommendations 2005 meeting
  ...ed to a meeting of EU Nature Ministers in October 2005 (Recommendations on Climate Change and Biodiversity Conservation: Knowledge Needed to Support Developme ...n a European scale, would lead to a better understanding of the effects of climate change on marine biodiversity. Though the focus at the meeting was on marin
  8 KB (1,083 words) - 17:18, 1 August 2019
• Threats to cold water coral reefs, sand banks and seagrass habitats in the North Sea by climate change effects
  ...change]] over the past decades shows that the observed changes in regional climate have affected many physical and biological systems, and there are prelimina Moreover, those changes in climate could increase the risk of abrupt and non-linear changes in many ecosystems
  14 KB (2,043 words) - 18:40, 7 March 2023
• Coastal and marine sediments
  ...cient sandstones. The rate at which weathering occurs depends on the local climate, with rapid breakdown in tropical areas, favoured by abundant rainfall and ...diments may also accumulate in sheltered coastal environments in temperate climate zones. An example is the inner part of the mega-tidal Baie du Mont Saint Mi
  56 KB (8,246 words) - 17:33, 30 December 2023
• North Atlantic Oscillation
  ==Climate fluctuations in north-western Europe== Climate fluctuations in north-western Europe are correlated with fluctuations in th
  8 KB (1,246 words) - 20:12, 26 May 2023
• Hard coastal protection structures
  ...n and accretion patterns which, in turn, depend on the interaction of wave climate, currents and tides with this morphology. The causes and effects of coastal ...uitable for low wave energy; Large mound type structures suitable for high wave energy.
  15 KB (2,145 words) - 16:46, 27 September 2021
• Spatial and temporal scales in biogeomorphology
  ...r effects on processes on smaller scales (e.g. [[sea level rise]] due to [[climate change]]). Techniques for scale interactions are reasonably well establishe #The frequency and intensity of erosive forces (e.g. wind-wave activity, storms, rainfall and fluvial flow).
  6 KB (900 words) - 22:24, 1 July 2020
• Climate adaptation policies for the coastal zone
  ...Colijn, M. Quante), Springer Verlag: 475-488</ref>. The important issue of climate adaptation in coastal cities is dealt with in a separate article [[Coastal ==Urgency of climate adaptation==
  24 KB (3,512 words) - 16:18, 10 May 2024
• Nature-based shore protection
  This article focuses on nature-based shore protection in temperate climate zones. Mangroves are dealt with in the article [[Mangroves]] and coral reef ...rshes, have been observed to offer protection during storms. Variations in wave reduction and cost effectiveness are dependent on multiple parameters inclu
  69 KB (10,397 words) - 17:04, 17 April 2024
• Marine data portals and tools
  ...strategic wave monitoring network for England and Wales, that consists of wave buoys located in areas at risk from flooding. ...for assessing impacts of environmental change in ecosystems, weather, and climate. Sea surface temperature, winds, and current products support meteorologica
  25 KB (3,541 words) - 22:36, 5 November 2021
• Introduction to biodiversity of coastal and marine habitats and ecosystems
  ...tal habitats and ecosystems in transitional waters are subjected to tides, wave action and sediment transport, which help to form habitats such as [[salt m ...ly) an increased incidence and severity of storms. The [[Effects of global climate change on European marine biodiversity|effects on the marine environment]]
  8 KB (1,167 words) - 19:01, 21 February 2024
• Natural variability and change in coastal ecosystems
  .... The way in which natural variation is influenced by issues relating to [[climate change]], water catchments and human activity is also discussed. ...expected to have already occurred, or to be possible in the future with [[climate change]]. Recently, there has been an increase in the abundance of a number
  28 KB (4,152 words) - 12:34, 6 March 2022
• Classification of sandy coastlines
  ...on the [[angle of incidence]] of the prevailing [[waves]] and dependent on wave exposure. The geomorphological processes associated with these physical str # Type 1: ''Perpendicular wave approach'', angle of incidence close to zero
  17 KB (2,622 words) - 20:46, 31 March 2021
• Stability of rubble mound breakwaters and shore revetments
  ...to protect shorelines from ongoing erosion or to shelter areas from strong wave and current action. Shore protection structures can be divided into coastal ...seabed/beach level; (2) potential to dissipate wave energy, thus reducing wave loads on the structure, and also reducing the tendency for scour; (3) the (
  53 KB (8,270 words) - 18:27, 26 March 2024
• The backbarrier tidal flats in the southern North Sea - A multidisciplinary approach to reveal the main driving forces shaping the system
  ...s are an important feature of many coastlines affected by tides in various climate zones of the world. They belong to the most productive natural ecosystems o ...e biotechnology and the production of renewable energy in coastal wind and wave power installations. Exploitation of resources always carries by the risk o
  22 KB (3,418 words) - 22:48, 2 July 2023
• Chenier
  ...p to 4 m high and 40 to 400 m wide, often shelly, deposited in the form of wave-built beach ridge on a swampy, deltaic, or alluvial coastal plain of fine s ...promote the formation of a mud bed on the landward side that also absorbs wave energy. Cheniers, mangroves and mud deposits together play an important rol
  6 KB (884 words) - 13:20, 13 January 2024
• Ecological enhancement of coastal protection structures
  ...s or rock structures<ref>Allen, R.J. and Webb, B.M. 2011. Determination of Wave Transmission Coefficients for Oyster Shell Bag Breakwaters. In: Magoon, O.T ...nce to the establishment of invasive species. The high levels of physical (wave) disturbance of artificial structures facilitates colonization by opportuni
  16 KB (2,325 words) - 21:09, 31 March 2024
• Restoration of estuarine and coastal ecosystems
  ...whole structure. This approach reduces the costs involved, as well as the wave action depressing the development of the vegetation. Cost benefit analyses :[[Climate adaptation measures for the coastal zone]]
  14 KB (2,089 words) - 19:14, 7 March 2023
• Embayed beaches
  ...h exchanges sand with the shoreface, depending on fluctuations in the wave climate (high-energy storm waves or low-energy swell). The presence of a beach impl ...mine the sediment transport gradients along the beach (see [[Shallow-water wave theory]] and [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] for a more detailed
  13 KB (2,008 words) - 16:12, 3 October 2021
• Shoreline retreat and recovery
  ...e: relative sea-level rise (see: [[Bruun rule]]), long-term trends in wave climate, decrease/increase of sand supply by rivers, trapping of sand in inlets and ...er offshore bathymetric structures<ref>Healy, T.R. 1987. The importance of wave focusing in the coastal erosion and sedimentation process. Proceed. Coastal
  29 KB (4,526 words) - 12:45, 24 April 2024
• Seaweed (macro-algae) ecosystem services
  ....C., Frazier, M. and Halpern, B.S. 2019. Blue Growth Potential to Mitigate Climate Change through Seaweed Offsetting. Current Biology 29: 3087–3093</ref>. ...f knowledge regarding the potential of macroalgae cultivation in providing climate-related and other ecosystem services. Report prepared by an Eklipse Working
  35 KB (5,044 words) - 17:21, 16 February 2024
• Coral islands
  ...the mid-Holocene high-stand sea level (current sea level plus about 1 m). Wave interaction with coral reef platforms is recognized as the principal proces ...d reef flats dissipate disproportionately more wave energy as the incident wave energy increases. In cases where reefs have been degraded, recovery is more
  8 KB (1,229 words) - 20:45, 2 April 2024