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• Coriolis and tidal motion in shelf seas
  ...the article [[Ocean and shelf tides]]. Due to their role as sink of tidal energy, one might assume that shelf seas have lower tides than the ocean. However, ...ately as <math>a \propto h^{-1/4}</math>) restores continuity of the tidal energy flux over the continental shelf.
  29 KB (4,811 words) - 11:24, 16 September 2021
• Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
  ...wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves. * [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturate
  20 KB (2,427 words) - 17:21, 20 May 2024
• Morphology of estuaries
  ...ment at the mouth of a river, that receives sediment from both fluvial and marine sources, and that contains facies influenced by tide, wave and fluvial proc In this article we also consider marine inlet systems with small or even absent river inflow (often called 'tidal l
  87 KB (13,505 words) - 12:18, 20 January 2024
• Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries
  ...ary are driven by gravity, through water-level gradients induced by tides, wind and river discharge and through density gradients. Momentum is dissipated a <math>c_W</math> the surface friction factor due to wind,
  11 KB (1,741 words) - 18:18, 4 February 2023
• Physical processes and morphology of synchronous estuaries
  ...aline sea water mix. They act as both sinks and sources for sediments - of marine, fluvial, internal and atmospheric origin. Following the end of the last ic ...s, Bar Built estuaries are located along coasts with plentiful supplies of marine sediments and, consequently, are close to present-day equilibrium. Coastal
  50 KB (7,345 words) - 17:09, 2 July 2020
• Harbour porpoise in the Belgian part of the North Sea
  ...or managers, policy- and decision-makers and professionals who work in the marine environment to rely on the best available scientific information about the ...or managers, policy- and decision-makers and professionals who work in the marine environment to rely on the best available scientific information about the
  77 KB (11,773 words) - 16:58, 17 February 2024
• Sand transport
  Sand can be transported by gravity-, wind-, wave-, tide- and density-driven currents (current-related transport), by ...t, usually resulting in accretion processes in the beach zone. During high-energy conditions with breaking waves (storm cycles), the beach and dune zone of t
  42 KB (6,585 words) - 21:05, 30 December 2023
• Sediment deposition and erosion processes
  ...also plays an important role in flocculation processes, see [[Coastal and marine sediments#Flocculation|flocculation]]]. ...en, W.G.M. (2004). Introduction to the Physics of Cohesive Sediment in the Marine Environment. Elsevier.</ref>). Note that Brownian diffusion does play an im
  63 KB (9,960 words) - 23:03, 28 April 2024
• Estuarine morphological modelling
  ...as by saline marine water and sediment via tides, storm surges, waves and wind. There is a strong mutual interaction with the complex ecosystem. Moreover, ...of sea level rise on the morphological equilibrium state of tidal inlets. Marine Geology 202: 211-227. doi: 10.1016/s0025-3227(03)00262-7</ref> ).]]
  36 KB (5,524 words) - 21:38, 28 June 2019
• Shelf sea exchange with the ocean
  ...rocesses occur with varying intensity according to context, but some (e.g. wind-induced upwelling or down-welling, tides) enable cross-slope transports of ...g main sense of coastal-trapped wave propagation around ocean boundaries. Energy (but not phase) may travel in the reverse sense of the small arrows.]]
  34 KB (5,118 words) - 12:02, 29 June 2020
• Infragravity waves
  ...Fig. 1). They are indirectly formed by the wind because they receive their energy from the short sea- and swell waves, which have typical periods of 2-20s. W ...duces a variation of the mean water level on a group scale, and results in energy that fluctuates at the same frequency as the wave group. This induced wave
  31 KB (4,773 words) - 15:34, 5 June 2024
• Extreme storms
  ...ts on an embayed, high-energy coastline: examples from western Ireland”. Marine Geology, Vol. 210(1), 261-280.</ref><ref name=MJ>Mendoza, E.T. and Jiménez ...ical cyclones which form almost exclusively over tropical seas, as well as marine storm events resulting from severe wave conditions and/or high sea levels (
  25 KB (3,812 words) - 20:36, 18 September 2023
• Swash zone dynamics
  ...considered as the region of the beach face exposed to the atmosphere over wind, swell and infragravity wave durations, i.e., seconds to a few minutes. ...ding waves (figure 2a). On intermediate and reflective beaches, short wave energy reaches the beach face in the form of bores or shore-breaks, which collapse
  32 KB (4,942 words) - 12:58, 5 April 2021
• Shallow-water wave theory
  ...es. The first section provides a descriptive overview of the generation of wind waves, their characteristics, the processes which control their movement an Ocean waves are mainly generated by the action of wind on water. The waves are formed initially by a complex process of resonance
  91 KB (14,631 words) - 15:30, 5 June 2024
• Ecosystem services
  ...services approach is a reductionist method, but the benefits arising from marine biodiversity are entirely dependent on the state of the whole ecosystem. Th ...provided by marine biodiversity: Implications for the ecosystem approach. Marine Pollution Bulletin 54: 253–265</ref>
  28 KB (4,079 words) - 22:20, 6 April 2024
• Open ocean habitat
  ...ne of the sub-categories within the section dealing with biodiversity of [[marine habitats and ecosystems]]. It gives an overview about the characteristics, ...masses and thus their relative motion. The circulation patterns driven by wind and density differences are strongly influenced by topography. Further info
  14 KB (2,153 words) - 13:08, 23 February 2021
• Littoral drift and shoreline modelling
  where <math>E</math> is the wave energy density [J/m²]. By assuming shallow water conditions at the loca ...he formula proposed by Bagnold (1963)<ref>Bagnold, R.A. 1963. Mechanics of Marine Sedimentation, in The Sea, Vol. 3, 507-528, (ed. Hill, M.N.), Interscience,
  29 KB (4,592 words) - 15:49, 5 June 2024
• Characteristics of sedimentary shores
  ..., N.E. 2017. Shoreline management guidelines. DHI https://www.dhigroup.com/marine-water/ebook-shoreline-management-guidelines</ref>. ...D. 1984. Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Marine Geology, 56: 93-118.</ref>, is the ratio of the significant wave height at
  24 KB (3,854 words) - 16:00, 30 June 2020
• Shoreface profile
  ...wer shoreface can be theoretically related to sediment transport by strong wind-driven currents. Other definitions of the outer boundary of the lower shore Most energy is dissipated in the upper part of the shoreface, where wave overturning an
  59 KB (9,016 words) - 11:16, 19 April 2024
• Ocean and shelf tides
  ...western part of the Indian Ocean <ref>Lyard F.H. and Le Provost, C. 1997. Energy budget of the tidal hydrodynamical model FES94.1. Geophys. Res. Lett. 24(6) ===Tidal energy dissipation===
  27 KB (4,146 words) - 23:36, 19 January 2024

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