Difference between revisions of "Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering"

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Coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes and engineering
 
 
 
 
  
 
==Introduction==
 
==Introduction==
  
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2020) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
+
This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.  
  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
 
The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red).  
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* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques]]
 
* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Methods&Techniques]]
 
* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Implementation & Results]]
 
* [[Using model simulations to support monitoring - Implementation & Results]]
 +
* [[Data analysis techniques for the coastal zone]]
 +
* [[Linear regression analysis of coastal processes]]
 +
* [[Analysis of coastal processes with Empirical Orthogonal Functions]]
 +
* [[Wavelet analysis of coastal processes]]
 +
* [[Artificial Neural Networks and coastal applications]]
 +
* [[Data interpolation with Kriging]]
  
'''Coastal Wiki gap'''
+
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
 
* [[Hydrodynamic processes and equations]] - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)
  
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* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
 
* [[Using satellite data for global wave forecasts]]
 
* [[Infragravity waves]]
 
* [[Infragravity waves]]
* [[Tsunami]]  
+
* [[Tsunami]]
 +
* [[Wave run-up]]
 +
* [[Wave set-up]]
 +
* [[Breaker index]]
 +
* [[Harbor resonance]]
 +
* [[Proudman resonance and meteo tsunamis]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
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* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum  
 
* [[Wind wave generation]] – introduction to underlying processes, fetch, saturated wave field, wave-wave interaction, wave spectrum  
 
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] – extension of [[Shallow-water wave theory]]  with more detailed treatment of propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation mechanisms, breaking criteria, roller energy, wave asymmetry and skewness, cnoidal waves, solitary waves, observations, empirical formulas, models
 
* [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] – extension of [[Shallow-water wave theory]]  with more detailed treatment of propagation of random waves into shallow water, wave breaking and dissipation mechanisms, breaking criteria, roller energy, wave asymmetry and skewness, cnoidal waves, solitary waves, observations, empirical formulas, models
* [[Surf zone dynamics]] – impact of [[Wave transformation in the nearshore]] on nearshore morphology
 
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
* [[Wave-current interaction]]
 
* [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack  
 
* [[Wave impact]] – stability of structures under wave attack  
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Ship waves]] - wash or wake, Kelvin wave pattern, supercritical wash
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 
* [[Wave modelling]] -  operational, coastal, computational fluid dynamics, smoothed particle hydrodynamics
 +
* [[Internal waves]]
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone  
 
* [[Currents]] introduction to currents in the Open Sea (tidal, wind-generated, storm surge), current in the nearshore zone (shore-parallel, shore-normal, undertow, rip currents, cross-currents), two-dimensional currents in the nearshore zone  
 +
* [[Rip current]]
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Waves and currents by X-band radar]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
 
* [[Currents and turbulence by acoustic methods]] - measurement method of currents   
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* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
 
* [[Bed roughness and friction factors in estuaries]]  
 
* [[Dam break flow]]
 
* [[Dam break flow]]
 
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
* [[Rip currents]] – extension of [[Rhythmic shoreline features]] with a more detailed treatment of characteristics of rip-cells, their importance, occurrence, hydrodynamics, morphodynamic feedbacks, influence of tides, storms, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management   
 
  
  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''
 
* [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
 
* [[Wind driven currents]] – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
 +
* [[Tidal currents]] - currents in inlets and estuaries: 1D, 2D log profile, boundary layer, eddy viscosity, bed shear stress, convergent channels, reflected wave, channel bends, choked inlets
 
* [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
 
* [[Density-driven currents]] – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
 
* [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
 
* [[Turbulence]] – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Chances and risks]]
+
* [[Vulnerability and risk]]
 
* [[Extreme storms]]
 
* [[Extreme storms]]
 
* [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]]  
 
* [[Decision Support Systems for coastal risk assessment and management]]  
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* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Flood risk]] general article
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article   
 
* [[Risk management strategies]] general article   
 +
* [[Copulas]] - Joint probability distribution of wave heights and water levels
  
  
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* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Boundary layer processes and sediment transport]] - introduction to the boundary layer concept (waves, current, waves+current), turbulence, temporal-spatial scales, bed-flow interaction, velocity and acceleration skewness, flat/rippled/sloping beds, sediment transport processes, onshore-offshore asymmetry, observation, modelling, practical formulas
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
 
* [[Current ripples and dunes]] – formation processes, theoretical background, modelling
* [[Cross-shore sediment transport]]  - shoaling zone, breaker zone, swash zone
 
* [[Aeolian transport]] – from beach to dunes, influence of grainsize, fetch, tides, moisture, vegetation, dune formation, modelling.
 
 
  
  
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* [[Closure depth]]
 
* [[Closure depth]]
 
* [[Shoreface profile]]
 
* [[Shoreface profile]]
 +
* [[Nearshore sandbars]]
 
* [[Swash zone dynamics]]  
 
* [[Swash zone dynamics]]  
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
* [[Gravel Beaches]]
 
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
 
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]] needs expansion and update of longshore sediment transport with recent formulas
 +
* [[Embayed beaches]] - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes
 +
* [[Coastal mud belt]]
 +
* [[Dune development]]
 +
* [[Sand spit]]
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
'''Coastal Wiki gaps'''  
 
* [[Typology of coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
 
* [[Typology of coastlines]] – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
* [[Embayed beaches]] - morphodynamics and equilibrium planform of beaches that are semi-enclosed by headlands or groynes. 
 
 
* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
* [[Wave-dominated coast]] general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal  bars and runnels  
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Macrotidal coasts]] - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
* [[Mud coasts]]  (or [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] ) - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
+
* [[Fluvial-dominated coasts]] - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
* [[Typology of mangrove coasts]] – morphological-ecological interaction
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices  
 
* [[Coastal barrier formation]] -  introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices  
* [[Breaker bar dynamics]] – development, evolution and decay of breaker bars in the surf zone, underlying morphodynamic processes and modelling
 
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Beach-dune interaction]] - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
 
* [[Reef systems]]
 
* [[Reef systems]]
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* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Dynamics, threats and management of salt marshes]]  
 
* [[Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes]]
 
* [[Spatial and temporal variability of salt marshes]]
 +
* [[Restoration of estuarine and coastal ecosystems]]
 
* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
 
* [[Tidal asymmetry and tidal basin morphodynamics]]
  
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
 
'''Incomplete articles'''
* [[Estuaries and tidal rivers]] – introduction to different types of estuaries
 
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 
* [[Mudflat]] – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
 
* [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics   
 
* [[Salt marsh morphodynamics]] – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics   
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* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Tide-dominated river deltas]] - introduction to characteristics of tidal deltas with high liquid and solid river discharge, major processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, resilience and threats, response to sea-level rise
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
 
* [[Ebb-tidal deltas]] – tide- and wave-driven morphodynamics, interaction with tidal basin morphodynamics
* [[Estuarine morphodynamics]] – morphodynamic feedback, equilibrium planform, equilibrium hypsometry, tidal flats, alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
+
* [[Tidal channel morphodynamics]] –alternating bars, channel meandering, channel bifurcation
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 
* [[Estuary response to sea-level rise]]
 
* [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
 
* [[Estuary channelization]] - impact on hydrodynamics, salt intrusion, sedimentation, turbidity, field cases, modelling
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
* [[Bathymetry from inverse wave refraction]]  
+
* [[Satellite-derived nearshore bathymetry]]
 +
* [[Bathymetry German Bight from X-band radar]]  
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
 
* [[Data processing and output of Lidar]]
* [[Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
+
* [[HyMap: Hyperspectral seafloor mapping and direct bathymetry calculation in littoral zones]]
 
* [[Instruments for bed level detection]]
 
* [[Instruments for bed level detection]]
 
* [[Space geodetic techniques for coastal zone monitoring]]
 
* [[Space geodetic techniques for coastal zone monitoring]]
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* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
 
* [[Sand ridges in shelf seas]]
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
 
* [[Process-based morphological models]]  
* [[Geomorphological analysis]]
 
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]  
 
* [[Behaviour-based models]]  
 
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]  
 
* [[Littoral drift and shoreline modelling]]  
* [[Stochastic and fractal methods in coastal morphodynamics]]
+
 
  
  
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'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
'''Coastal Wiki articles'''
 
* [[Sea level rise]]
 
* [[Sea level rise]]
 +
* [[Geomorphological time scales and processes]]
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
 
* [[Effect of climate change on coastline evolution]]  
 
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
 
* [[Bruun rule for shoreface adaptation to sea-level rise]]  
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* [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 
* [[Sea level change]] -  indications of former sea levels, causes of sea level change, pleistocene, holocene, present, future, isostacy and eustacy, tectonics, climate change
 
* [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
 
* [[Geomorphological modelling]] at geological time scale  
* [[Seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers]]
 
 
* [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
 
* [[ICZM issues associated with long term geomorphology]]
  
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* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Sand-filled geosystems in coastal engineering]]
 
* [[Beach nourishment]]  
 
* [[Beach nourishment]]  
* [[Artificial nourishment]]   
+
* [[Shoreface nourishment]]   
 
* [[Shore nourishment]]  
 
* [[Shore nourishment]]  
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]  
 
* [[Experiences with beach nourishments in Portugal ]]  
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* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Wave energy converters in coastal structures]]
* [[Offshore wind farm development in Germany]]
+
* [[Preparation of offshore wind farm development in Germany]]
  
  
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* [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
* [[Experience with coastal nourishment in the Netherlands]]
 
* [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
 
* [[Coastal defence options]] - UK MAFF guidelines, do nothing, risk management, sustain, change
* [[Resonance phenomena]] -  dealing with seiches in harbours and basins
 
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
* [[Disposal of dredged materials]] – including fate of dredged materials
 
* [[Use of mud in coastal structures]]
 
* [[Use of mud in coastal structures]]
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[[Category:Coastal protection]]
 
[[Category:Coastal protection]]
[[Category:Physical coastal and marine processes]]Physical coastal and marine processes]]
+
[[Category:Physical coastal and marine processes]]

Latest revision as of 12:26, 20 February 2024

Introduction

This article presents an overview of the Coastal Wiki content (July 2017) on coastal hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, long term geomorphological change, climate impacts and coastal engineering (articles in blue). This content was initiated by the ENCORA themes 5 and 8.

The article also indicates missing topics (articles in red). Please help us fill these gaps by expanding and claiming these missing topics.

For some gaps alternative websites are indicated, in particular:

See also: Definitions of coastal terms.

Coastal hydrodynamics

Coastal Wiki articles

Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Hydrodynamic processes and equations - introduction to the mathematical formulation of major physical processes that should be addressed in models for different types of coastal systems (sediment transport formulas are addressed in other articles)


Waves

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Waves – more comprehensive introduction to wave phenomena and wave types: progressive, standing, surface, internal, gravity, capillary, wind wave, swell, tide, planetary or Rossby waves, tsunami, ship waves.
  • Wave transformation , see Shallow-water wave theory
  • Edge waves definition should be expanded: periods incident waves, reflection, dissipation, propagation, coastally trapped waves


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Tides

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Storm surge definition needs expansion: storm surge prediction, storm surge modelling, storm surge impact


External references


Currents

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Wind driven currents – sea surface entrainment, turbulence, Ekman theory
  • Tidal currents - currents in inlets and estuaries: 1D, 2D log profile, boundary layer, eddy viscosity, bed shear stress, convergent channels, reflected wave, channel bends, choked inlets
  • Density-driven currents – buoyancy, stratification, turbulence damping, entrainment, modelling
  • Turbulence – generation, coherent flow structures, dissipation, Kolmogorov theory, spectrum, shear stress, diffusion, mixing length


Transport and mixing processes

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Stratification – needs expansion: stability criteria, internal waves, Kelvin-Helmholz instability, turbulence damping, internal friction, mixing


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Flood risk

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal sediments and sediment transport

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal morphology

Wave-dominated coasts

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Rocky shore morphology – needs expansion to cliff morphology, sediment input, shore platforms, stacks, headlands, etc.
  • Beach berm – expand definition and add section on berm formation


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Typology of coastlines – introduction to different coastline classification schemes, accretional, erosional coasts, beaches, estuaries, inlets, deltas, cliffs, mudflats, dunes, stacks, headlands, blowholes
  • Wave-dominated coast general introduction: barriers, beaches, breaker bars, intertidal bars and runnels
  • Macrotidal coasts - introduction to: characteristics of macrotidal coasts (compared to micro- or mesotidal coasts), variability, major involved hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes, resilience, response to sea-level rise
  • Fluvial-dominated coasts - introduction to the particular characteristics of mud coasts (compared to sand coasts) and the processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats and response to sea-level rise
  • Typology of mangrove coasts – morphological-ecological interaction
  • Coastal barrier formation - introduction to characteristics of coastal barriers, their importance, processes responsible for their formation, evolution and maintenance, threats to existing coastal barriers (human interventions and sea-level rise), good management practices
  • Beach-dune interaction - introduction to major processes of coastal dune formation and erosion, and practical modelling concepts
  • Reef systems


External references

Deltas, estuaries and lagoons

Coastal Wiki articles

Incomplete articles

  • Mudflat – needs expansion of existing definition, mudflat morphology and morphodynamics (interaction morphology-tide-waves-biology), link to saltmarsh morphology
  • Salt marsh morphodynamics – typical salt marsh morphologies, introduction to underlying physical feedback processes (interaction waves, tide with morphology), biogeomorphodynamics
  • Fjords – definition needs to be expanded: formation process, hydrodynamics
  • Coastal squeeze – article must be revised and expanded: introduction to the concept of coastal squeeze, influential factors, how does it happen, consequences, examples, how to avoid, how to mitigate, lessons from practice
  • Characteristics of muddy coasts - needs revision and expansion to include wave influence and interactions ecology-hydrodynamics-morphology.


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references


Coastal morphology measuring techniques

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal morphodynamic modelling and self-organisation

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Coastline instability - introduction to conditions for coastline instability, occurrence, characteristics of unstable coastlines, observations, processes, morphodynamic feedback, modelling, practical formulas, implications for coastal management
  • Nearshore bed forms and bed roughness – extension of Bedforms and roughness with a more detailed treatment of the physical background and practical methods for representing the influence of bed forms and bed roughness in the nearshore zone in numerical models of waves, currents, mixing and sediment transport
  • Sand waves - introduction to characteristics of sand waves, their practical importance, conditions and major (feedback)processes for their formation, evolution and maintenance, modelling, some examples and simple rules
  • Bio-geomorphology of the coastal zone – morphological and ecological patterns in the coastal zone resulting from the interaction between biotic and physical processes

Coastal erosion

Coastal Wiki articles


Coastal Wiki gaps

  • Shoreline prediction – practical (data-driven) methods, applicability, storms, implication for coastal management
  • Decadal coastal prediction - introduction to (data-driven) methods for predicting coastal evolution over decadal time scale


Long-term morphodynamics and climate change

Coastal Wiki articles


Incomplete articles

  • Geomorphology – needs expansion to a general article linking to more specific articles
  • Climate change - extend existing definition to general introduction to the topic


Coastal Wiki gaps


Coastal protection and engineering

Hard measures

Soft measures

Wind and wave energy


Incomplete articles

  • Dredging needs expansion with overview article of techniques and impact


Coastal Wiki gaps


External references